Proactive Rear Subrame Bolt Replacement
#53
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I found these 12.9 class on ebay are these the ones I need?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pieces-M12...38.m2548.l4275
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just dropped the front subframe on my 212 E63 to get the engine out still attached to the gearbox.
Obviously I'm going to have to put the subframe back. Should I buy new bolts from the dealership or get stronger aftermarket ones? I'm thinking more towards factory new ones.
Also, when I jack up the subframe when reattaching it, how much should I tension it against the body so there's no stress on the bolts while they're being tightened?
Obviously I'm going to have to put the subframe back. Should I buy new bolts from the dealership or get stronger aftermarket ones? I'm thinking more towards factory new ones.
Also, when I jack up the subframe when reattaching it, how much should I tension it against the body so there's no stress on the bolts while they're being tightened?
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I just dropped the front subframe on my 212 E63 to get the engine out still attached to the gearbox.
Obviously I'm going to have to put the subframe back. Should I buy new bolts from the dealership or get stronger aftermarket ones? I'm thinking more towards factory new ones.
Also, when I jack up the subframe when reattaching it, how much should I tension it against the body so there's no stress on the bolts while they're being tightened?
Obviously I'm going to have to put the subframe back. Should I buy new bolts from the dealership or get stronger aftermarket ones? I'm thinking more towards factory new ones.
Also, when I jack up the subframe when reattaching it, how much should I tension it against the body so there's no stress on the bolts while they're being tightened?
#58
Rear sub-frame bolts pulled captured nut from chassis
I had the same problem and I want to say thanks. The symptoms were, rubber squeaking sound from the rear when accelerating. Thumping sound from rear when going over bumps. Suspension creaking. Instability from rear end, actually checked rear tire pressure a few days prior to failure. I think one bolt jerked out a month before while doing a burn-out and the second jerked out accelerating from a stop light normally. This information made the fix easy. I used six dollars worth of Grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts from Home Depot and a 3" cut-off wheel for the drill.
Question: How did you weather proof the hole?
Question: How did you weather proof the hole?
#59
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Thread Starter
I still haven't gotten around to doing that, but the plan is to get a rubber sheet from my local hardware store and use a bead of RTV to glue it over the hole.
And you really should use a hole saw to cut the opening. It's very easy and leaves a round hole that won't have stress concentrations that could lead to cracks in the future.
And you really should use a hole saw to cut the opening. It's very easy and leaves a round hole that won't have stress concentrations that could lead to cracks in the future.
#60
Member
I still haven't gotten around to doing that, but the plan is to get a rubber sheet from my local hardware store and use a bead of RTV to glue it over the hole.
And you really should use a hole saw to cut the opening. It's very easy and leaves a round hole that won't have stress concentrations that could lead to cracks in the future.
And you really should use a hole saw to cut the opening. It's very easy and leaves a round hole that won't have stress concentrations that could lead to cracks in the future.
#61
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#64
Super Member
#66
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Just get the nuts, bolts, and washers, a 1/2" drill bit and a 2" hole saw and follow my directions in the first post. I was surprised at how easy the job was.
I have well over 100 passes on my car, all on drag radials at the track with no problems.
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#67
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
I do hear clunking on the left, and ticking when I raise and lower the airmatic in the same spot. So that alone worries me it's time to get the bolts changed out.
The links in the op are dead for the bolts, what's the best place to get em?
The links in the op are dead for the bolts, what's the best place to get em?
#69
Senior Member
No standard, read the entire thread, lots of intel on how past repairs have been accomplished.
In short, 2 plates of steel are used (above and below) to sandwich the frame and and longer bolts to hold the subframe onto the chassis
/-\ Nut (wheel well area on top
---------- steel plate
^
======= frame
^
---------- steel plate
^
=-=-=-= Subframe
\-/ Bolt (Bottom under carriage side)
*lil more accurate ASCII lovin'*
In short, 2 plates of steel are used (above and below) to sandwich the frame and and longer bolts to hold the subframe onto the chassis
/-\ Nut (wheel well area on top
---------- steel plate
^
======= frame
^
---------- steel plate
^
=-=-=-= Subframe
\-/ Bolt (Bottom under carriage side)
*lil more accurate ASCII lovin'*
#70
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 70
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2008, Mercedes ML350, 2003 Mercedes Benz ML55 AMG, 2005 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG Modified
Well, I guess It's not proactive, but I just discovered my driver's side bolt tore out!!!
I will do the bolt-through approach as described here. I assume using thread lock would be recommended when fitting the new bolt?
Also, what is the easiest way to get the old bolt out?
I will do the bolt-through approach as described here. I assume using thread lock would be recommended when fitting the new bolt?
Also, what is the easiest way to get the old bolt out?
#72
Super Member
I did this mod first so i didnt have to deal with this but my buddy wasnt so lucky i had to help him we did a cobalt drill bit and then used an easy out to take it out. Wasnt easy but take ur time an itll come use plenty of wd40 or whatever ur preference as well this will help loosen it up. Then make sure to use very thick hardened steel washers on both sides when assembling an i used both a locking nut and locktite.
#73
Super Member
looks like im another lucky winner of this carnage , turned onto my road at like 20mph, and then i hear a pop ..... put it on the lift, and low and behold, bolts intact, hole in frame lmfao. **** you MB!!!! 81k for miles btw, stock other than UPD pulley, BWK, and trans/ecu tune ..
So here is my next question/ worry how are the rest of the subframe mounts? id rather have a bolt break then this BS. Anyway to check?
So here is my next question/ worry how are the rest of the subframe mounts? id rather have a bolt break then this BS. Anyway to check?
#74
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
looks like im another lucky winner of this carnage , turned onto my road at like 20mph, and then i hear a pop ..... put it on the lift, and low and behold, bolts intact, hole in frame lmfao. **** you MB!!!! 81k for miles btw, stock other than UPD pulley, BWK, and trans/ecu tune ..
So here is my next question/ worry how are the rest of the subframe mounts? id rather have a bolt break then this BS. Anyway to check?
So here is my next question/ worry how are the rest of the subframe mounts? id rather have a bolt break then this BS. Anyway to check?
#75
Super Member
I cant even believe that these threaded inserts are welded onto sheet metal. wtf .
already drilled a hole, now im looking for my e18, hopefully vise-grip will hold the stupid threaded part.
question do you guys add the threaded/location portion that broke off back onto the new bolt?
2nd question, is adding a plate between the subframe and frame going to alter geometry of the suspension?
Update, got the bolt and threaded insert off finally. thank god. now time to find some hardware.
already drilled a hole, now im looking for my e18, hopefully vise-grip will hold the stupid threaded part.
question do you guys add the threaded/location portion that broke off back onto the new bolt?
2nd question, is adding a plate between the subframe and frame going to alter geometry of the suspension?
Update, got the bolt and threaded insert off finally. thank god. now time to find some hardware.
Last edited by 06cls55amg; 07-17-2019 at 01:27 PM.