When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Well I was prepared to offer all sorts of advice when I started reading this thread but as I progressed I realized all the good advice had already been given or worked out by yourself. My symptoms were the same when I replaced my alternator last year. The stealership here in Australia wanted $960 (WTF!) so I paid $120 freight for one of the $160 jobs from the U.S. - a third of the price and if anything probably better quality considering it has a solid metal pulley rather than the plastic one on the oem.
I know often it is only the voltage regulator at fault but for $160 and reliability sake might as well replace both.
Installation was a breeze since I was changing the engine water pump at the same time. As for the fan shroud that's the first thing that comes off for most repairs/maintenance including belt replacements. It only takes 5 minutes and eliminates the progressively louder swearing when your hands get bruised and gouged repeatedly in the same spots.
if you smell something burning, then probably alternator related, VR or other part of alternator. I would change the VR first.
I had problems with mine a couple years ago.
changed trunk battery
changed smaller battery
changed VR
changed Battery control module in trunk
changed battery relay under windshield
Beginning got the low battery convience function temp disabled. progressed to red battery code. Viola, red battery code finally went away after 5min idling. I even bought a new alternator thinking that would be my last straw to change if i still got the red battery code.
What exactly does the Battery Control Module in the truck do? My friend tried to use my car to jump start another and reversed the polarity. Since then my heated seats haven't worked correctly and it keeps saying fuel cap is loose with the red screen. I have replaced both batteries and it still says Electrical Consumers turned off every once in a while. My battery seems to drain very easily to where I have to jump it to get it started. The battery shop tested the batteries and said they are okay.
E 63S Wagon Renntech, E55 Renntech, SL65, SL 55 030, ML, bunch of old ones--they come, they go...
Ok, VR didn't do it....
Those of you that have done the alternator, did you have any alternator warning light? Or any red light at all? I can't believe that I have don't have any electrical warning except "convenience functions..."...
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by allenjdmb
Those of you that have done the alternator, did you have any alternator warning light? Or any red light at all? I can't believe that I have don't have any electrical warning except "convenience functions..."...
When mine went there was no warning lights or any indication that it was the alternator at fault - only the convenience functions message. Even if the voltage regulator is at fault chances are the alternator is on its way out also. The safest bet is changing out the entire alternator no messing around.
2004 W211 E55 AMG >>gone but not forgotten > W123 280E > W124 E280 > W126 380SE
Originally Posted by allenjdmb
Voltage regulator did NOT do it...just doesn't make any sense that I have no other electrical warnings/codes...
Originally Posted by allenjdmb
dead battery? Uh, yeah...on my second replacement, front and rear...within 90 days.
Man it's pretty obvious to me you NEED to swap out your alternator for a new one. I didn't get any messages either apart from the "Convenience functions blah blah" so no point wondering why it doesn't make any sense just replace it.
Almost two years to the date and my low battery light is back on. Charging system is only outputting ~11.6V. Good thing this alternator came with a Limited Lifetime Warranty....
So many sub par parts out there now. I've heard of people swapping out 35 year old cv boots and having the new ones fail in two years or so...sad. Hope the warranty helps, but still they won't install it for you.
Heissrod, if you pull the alternator out from the top, can you get to it without accessing anything from the bottom of the car? Where I'm at right now I have tools, but no jacks or jackstands.
Possibly. I suppose the lines screwed/bolted to the shroud could be undone from the top. The connections on the back of the alternator would be the hardest part.
Ugh...new alternator already took a dump. 11.58v charging under load. Besides the possibility that these aftermarket alternators are not good, what could be eating alternators? it's not undercharging, because they are advertised at 180 amps.
Following a dyno session, I got the convenience battery message on the way home. Lost my accessories and then saw smoke coming from the hood.
It was coming from the alternator.
Planned to tow it the following day to the shop but she started up. On my way there I first got the dreadful brake malfunction message.. then I got the red Battery/Alternator light. As I pulled up to the shop all the lights were coming on and the car wouldn't shift into gear.
Swapped in the new alternator and everything's perfect now.
Ugh...new alternator already took a dump. 11.58v charging under load. Besides the possibility that these aftermarket alternators are not good, what could be eating alternators? it's not undercharging, because they are advertised at 180 amps.
Man that sucks. It's hard to believe that you would get 2 crappy alternators. It's possible though. Almost has to be another issue. Hopefully someone has gone through it before.
Man that sucks. It's hard to believe that you would get 2 crappy alternators. It's possible though. Almost has to be another issue. Hopefully someone has gone through it before.
You know what sucks even more? I've probably only driven it about 7 days total since install. Good thing i work from home....
I'm going to double-check the field wire, to make sure it's getting power before I pull the current one out. If it fries a third one, not sure what to do except try an OEM one for 250% more money and no refund from Oriellys.
Last edited by HeissRod; Feb 13, 2017 at 12:19 AM.
So, this situation continues to elude me. Alternator bench tests fine. Batteries charged to 100% and load test fine. However, with the car running the voltage is terrible.
I have read other threads where the alternator bench tested fine, but failed under load. How do I test this? What else could be causing this?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
