W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Higher temps after going split coolant?? help

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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 09:14 PM
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Higher temps after going split coolant?? help

Hey guys i just recently installed a 77mm fixed pulley. I logged my temps with the factory pulley and i was at about 20-23 degrees above ambient temp. With the 77mm pulley i was staying around 28-30 above ambient. So today i got around to installing my fabtech engine bay split cooling tank. I used distilled water and a couple bottles of water wetter. I believe i have everything correct as far as plumbing goes and i can see my pump pushing coolant back into the tank. But my iat is now around 35 degrees above ambient. All of these test were done at the same cruising speeds which was around 40mph.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 09:44 PM
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Is it the same temp outside as before?
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 09:55 PM
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Hmm it was 48 degrees when testing a bit ago. And the other day it was around 53 degrees or so.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:00 PM
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I don't think you have to bleed it when you have the split cooling. Did you drive for the same amount of time?
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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Well I drove for a little longer tonight to see if the temps would go down anymore.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:23 PM
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if the engine gets hotter so will the iats, so if you tested with a cooler engine the iats will be lower
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
if the engine gets hotter so will the iats, so if you tested with a cooler engine the iats will be lower
hmm you may be right, the only difference that i did tonight was i let the car get all the way to operating temp and idle for a good 10 minutes before taking it out. I was trying to get the thermostat to open up and get my coolant circulating so i could put some back in that was lost in the process. I will take it out just like i did the other times and test tomorrow morning.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:29 PM
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After doing the split cooling mod, curious...do you need to keep a close eye on the added resavour or what do you need to look out for?
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:30 PM
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I believe you just fill it like you would your radiator coolant bottle and leave it be.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by trab8989
hmm you may be right, the only difference that i did tonight was i let the car get all the way to operating temp and idle for a good 10 minutes before taking it out. I was trying to get the thermostat to open up and get my coolant circulating so i could put some back in that was lost in the process. I will take it out just like i did the other times and test tomorrow morning.
Ya if the other times it wasn't at operating temps your iats will be cooler especially being in the 50s outside
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
Ya if the other times it wasn't at operating temps your iats will be cooler especially being in the 50s outside
Well see the car was at full operating temp in all occasions. Only difference was i let the car idle for a long time to get up to operating temp in the garage tonight. Where as the other times i just started the car, let it idle maybe a minute or so then took it out and drove it until it got up to operating temp.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 10:44 PM
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Yup, running idle will run higher temps but not by much and the 5* is probably it.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 11:55 PM
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I just took it out again, was still a little warm from before. I drove for probably a good 25 mins. As i pull out of the driveway baby'ing it the car creeps up to 120degree iat then suddenly drops very quickly. Im guessing the pump cuts on there? Temp outside was 45 degrees this time and my iat wanted to stay around 69-71 degree's. So that is about a 7-8 degree change from not being split. Would you guys say that is the normal difference from stock to split? Thanks

O car pulls like a train with the 77mm fsp... Cant make it get good traction.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:11 AM
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You are actually pretty good considering that the fsp will keep your blower engaged
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
You are actually pretty good considering that the fsp will keep your blower engaged
Yea, summer time i might have to do a bigger heat exchanger.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:32 AM
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I did the exact same thing, split cooling and a FTP bay tank. Initial temps show a rise in IATs.
Here in Texas it's been around 35-55 and after installing I noted my initial start up temp of 95* that was after sitting in a shop for 6-7 hours off. I've never seen this high of a start temp before. I haven't had a chance to do any more logging, but needless to say that was very concerning. I monitor via Aeroforce gauges. Subscribed for updates.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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FYI, for all you boys in the South, running straight water with some water wetter is not a safeguard to freezing, even at 35 degrees when first running down the road the air coming through the rad will be cooler and could freeze in your tank, just beware.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Critter
FYI, for all you boys in the South, running straight water with some water wetter is not a safeguard to freezing, even at 35 degrees when first running down the road the air coming through the rad will be cooler and could freeze in your tank, just beware.
Sounds like that would save me from having to put ice in the tank
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:21 PM
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As far as I know with my own car the pump does not turn on until lit sees a 25 percent throttle load. If I baby it the pump will stay off. I installed a led light in the dash that turns on when the pump is on so I always know when it's on or if I have a failure the light will not come on letting me know what's up. It's a great little safety "light"as far as I'm concerned.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:27 PM
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I monitored mine for about a hour last night and my pump acts differently then yours. I start the car, let it warm for a min and take off. IAT temps get all the way to 120 degrees then the pump kicks on and drops them down quickly. After that i can baby the car for probably 15 minutes or more and then the pump will kick off and get back to 120 iat and come back on. Or if i press the gas more then probably 25% the pump kicks back on immediately. Pump will not cut off if i am driving and going over 25% of the throttle.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:42 PM
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Just wire the pump so as soon as the key is started its always on. That will help also
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
Just wire the pump so as soon as the key is started its always on. That will help also
Do you have a link for a DIY? Mine does the same thing. IAT go up then pump kicks on.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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Don't know if there's a DIY on it but run the power line from the pump to the thick brown line (iirc) on the front sam
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 03:29 PM
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Cold weather is a coming boys!!
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
Don't know if there's a DIY on it but run the power line from the pump to the thick brown line (iirc) on the front sam
What's a front sam. Sorry if in retarded.
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