W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Battery dead? Help...

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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 07:16 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Elhonaz
The aux battery is found on every w211 from 03 to 06, when it used the SBC braking system. In 2006 when w211 got facelift, SBC was not continued.
Does this mean that all W211 without SBC also do not have aux batteries?
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 07:19 PM
  #52  
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Battery is toast, a giant resistor in the trunk, 12 volts probably a dropped cell. REPLACE
Also check voltage of aux battery when car is off.
How old are the batteries in your car.
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:33 PM
  #53  
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Wow, these issues do get complicated. All i had to do was trickle charge it with a smart charger overnight. She started up immediately and the cluster reset. Was a Snow storm outside so I dint drive for another couple days. Started her yesterday with no issues and no messages in the cluster.

So far, my issue was solve with a 40 dollar trickle charger....so far...
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Max.H
I let my car sit for awhile too and noticed my battery voltage on AMG Screen via 63 cluster says I'm at 12 volts cold. 13.8-14.0 when car is on. It won't go past 14 volts.

I was thinking of taking my battery out of trunk and taking to auto zone to have it charged. Any suggestions?

On a side note. I noticed my DRL LED would not light up until i started driving the car daily. Now they both turn on. Im guessing because of 13.8 volts.

Im worried about running WOT with less then 14.2 volts also.

Can anyone help with this? Thanks!
you have an e63 cluster in your e55? can you see the engine oil and transmission oil temps?
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by JDM_SXE-10
Does this mean that all W211 without SBC also do not have aux batteries?
correct
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 11:13 PM
  #56  
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Yes, after 2006, there was no aux battery once SBC was gone on W211.

Also I wouldn't say 12 volts is dead. Fully charged is supposed to be about 12.5-12.6 volts, but that's at 78 degrees. With colder weather, lower voltage isn't unexpected. I'm keeping an eye on mine, reads anywhere from 11.7-11.9 volts and it's a little over 7 years old, Temperatures here have been in the 20-30s lately. Still starts up fine though, no issues even after sitting a few days. As for running voltage, I haven't seen anything about 14.2, most of the time it's in the 13.8-14 volt range which I think is normal.

I'm tempted to take my battery out and throw it on the charger to see what the max charge I can get out of it is, but I've read that sometimes you have to reset the sunroof, roll the windows up and down and sometimes you get weird system messages about ESP or ABS which sometimes clears just by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery so I'm not going to mess with it as long as it's working.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 08:16 AM
  #57  
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Keep in mind once a battery fully discharges they will never reach a full charge again, unless it's a brand new battery. So the trickle charger technique is really important to do on a new battery while car sits for a prolong period. Not so good on a battery that was dead. Your problem will most likely come back soon enough if you don't replace the battaries
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 09:46 AM
  #58  
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"reads anywhere from 11.7-11.9 volts and it's a little over 7 years old", Cetialpha5
What is the love between an owner and a old battery, I do not know, Please someone enlighten me.
When this car leaves you stranded one night or one morning when you absolutely need it, what will you do, buy another car.
You my friend are running on borrowed time, 14.2 is the normal run voltage for a car, your seven year old battery is a burden on your charging system as well as the starter and most all of the electronics. Safe up for an alternator also.
Let us know how you make out.
The weird messages for ESP and ABS are near
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 06:55 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Rocman8
you have an e63 cluster in your e55? can you see the engine oil and transmission oil temps?
Yes that's correct. Like 92 degrees Fahrenheit under normal driving conditions. Ive seen it get up well past 110 degrees, under hard usage.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 06:59 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Critter
"reads anywhere from 11.7-11.9 volts and it's a little over 7 years old", Cetialpha5
What is the love between an owner and a old battery, I do not know, Please someone enlighten me.
When this car leaves you stranded one night or one morning when you absolutely need it, what will you do, buy another car.
You my friend are running on borrowed time, 14.2 is the normal run voltage for a car, your seven year old battery is a burden on your charging system as well as the starter and most all of the electronics. Safe up for an alternator also.
Let us know how you make out.
The weird messages for ESP and ABS are near
****, I'm running around 13.8-14 volts running and 12 volts cold.

Time to look for new battery I suppose.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 08:37 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Critter
"reads anywhere from 11.7-11.9 volts and it's a little over 7 years old", Cetialpha5
What is the love between an owner and a old battery, I do not know, Please someone enlighten me.
When this car leaves you stranded one night or one morning when you absolutely need it, what will you do, buy another car.
You my friend are running on borrowed time, 14.2 is the normal run voltage for a car, your seven year old battery is a burden on your charging system as well as the starter and most all of the electronics. Safe up for an alternator also.
Let us know how you make out.
The weird messages for ESP and ABS are near
It's an AGM battery which is supposed to last longer than a regular lead acid battery, some here have gotten 8-10 years out of them or more.

If it leaves me stranded, I'll just call AAA for a jump or use 100 miles of free towing. I have seen 14.2, just not at idle which is when I look at it. Also I believe you get a warning message on the dash when the voltage goes down to 11 and then another warning once it goes to 10.5. I don't want to fix it if it isn't broke.

Originally Posted by Max.H
****, I'm running around 13.8-14 volts running and 12 volts cold.

Time to look for new battery I suppose.
It's a 12 volt battery. Fully charged and not under load, voltage is supposed to be 12.6-12.7 volts AT 78 degrees. When it's cold, the battery is still under load unless you've taken it out of the car. Also in colder temperatures, the chemical reactions slow down and you would expect to have a lower voltage. It's about 25 degrees here now.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 08:58 PM
  #62  
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Wow25 degrees and your car still starts, unbelievable.
It is 6 degrees here and my battery just checked out at 12.74V
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 09:28 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Critter
Wow25 degrees and your car still starts, unbelievable.
It is 6 degrees here and my battery just checked out at 12.74V
Are we talking about the same scale here? It's 25 degrees Fahrenheit here, are you talking 6 degrees Celsius? Starts up fine on the first crank, no issues.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 09:42 PM
  #64  
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6 Fahrenheit, old school
-12C
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 11:16 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Max.H
Yes that's correct. Like 92 degrees Fahrenheit under normal driving conditions. Ive seen it get up well past 110 degrees, under hard usage.
thats cool. you mean celsius though.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 12:37 PM
  #66  
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got my first battery message last night... grey message (not red) about battery not up to par, suspending measurements (or something like that)

sounds like i need a new main battery too
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 12:43 PM
  #67  
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-28C with the wind chill factor last night, batteries are taking a beating.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 02:42 PM
  #68  
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What is the oem size? 49 H8 AGM ?

Last edited by Toadster; Jan 15, 2015 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Critter
-28C with the wind chill factor last night, batteries are taking a beating.
Wind chill only refers to humans who have skin. The temperature is the temperature no matter what the wind chill is to the battery. Plus with the battery in the trunk, it's not even subject to the wind. If it were, it would just reach ambient temperature quicker.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 03:58 PM
  #70  
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Not all cars have the battery in the trunk, Wind chill will effect the engine and most components including front mount batteries and the drive line if the car is parked into the wind.
In a garage the vehicle is only ambient temp as you state.
A battery will fail on the coldest days and the hottest days sometimes without warning.
Personally would not risk my life or any others driving the highways here running an ancient battery,( over 5-6 years) no matter what the test outcome was. To me its like running near the wear bars on tires because they are still round and hold air. Or not changing out the brake pads until the indicator tells me. IMO Just Sayin
These cars we have are power hogs, respect that.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Critter
Okay, how old are the batteries, anything over 5 years. REPLACE them. If you own a charger unhook the negative terminal on the trunk battery and charge the battery for minimum 4-6hours or over night if using a small charger ie 10 amp or less.
I just pickup up 1.5 amp automatic battery charger or called a Trickle charger, it even comes with a quick connect plug. So I assume it should attach to both terminals?

It says for most vehicles need the red positive clamp to red positive side of battery and black negative clamp to the chassis.. Both of my battery terminals are still connected.

I could only find a bolt that attaches the rear bumper support next to my battery to clamp onto for the ground clamp. Would that be ok? Or should I attach negative clamp to negative side of battery?

I thought it was suppose to attach to both terminals of the battery. But the instructions state different.

What should I do? Thanks
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:40 PM
  #72  
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Just use the clamps supplied red positive and black negative,1.5 amp will take about two days to bring the battery up to full charge. That is if the battery is not too old.
Oh forgot, two batteries, unhook the neg from the trunk battery and then recharge, when you go to connect make sure all power items are off, lights, key etc.

Last edited by Critter; Jan 15, 2015 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:43 PM
  #73  
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I never unhooked the battery from the car. clamped the red positive to the battery and clamped the black negative to the chassis. I trickle charged it at two amps overnight until the smart charger switch to maintenance mode. Started up. no issues since...for now.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:48 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by A.M.
I never unhooked the battery from the car. clamped the red positive to the battery and clamped the black negative to the chassis. I trickle charged it at two amps overnight until the smart charger switch to maintenance mode. Started up. no issues since...for now.
Interesting. That is what I did just now. Where did you attach the ground clamp? What part of the chassis if you explain that would be great!
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:50 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Critter
Just use the clamps supplied red positive and black negative,1.5 amp will take about two days to bring the battery up to full charge. That is if the battery is not too old.
Oh forgot, two batteries, unhook the neg from the trunk battery and then recharge, when you go to connect make sure all power items are off, lights, key etc.
Thank you! Yes the car is off trunk is closed.
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