W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

better handleing

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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #26  
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I'd like to try experimenting dialing out some caster with my KMAC bushings. Sounds interesting.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 03:42 PM
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Ball joints all done but now I found something else to do. The sway bar links have a rubber insulator on one end so I started making 1/2 rod ends with a threaded tube kit. Now it will be solid with two rod ends and no rubber so there will be no deflection at all. I will...if I get crazy ...will drill a hole closer "in" where the link mounts and this will make for a stiffer bar. My road race Mustang had something like this with 3 holes to adjust it to track conditions.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:08 PM
  #28  
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Wow! What a difference! The caster I pulled out from this mod worked so well that I put the pump back to stock pressures. I have been complaining to my self about how heavy the steering feels in this car since the day I bought it and NOW its like steering a Caddy with fantastic feed back. I ended up pulling 2.3 degrees out with caster and she drives perfect. Totally different car now so thanks for the "slotting" the upper ball joint advice/trick. Would not have thought of that.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:21 PM
  #29  
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Taking out caster can actually be bad for handling. Caster does two things it increases first it provides self centering of the steering and that's what everyone thinks that caster is for. Caster does one other very important thing especially in a large sedan with moderate body roll. It decreases negitive camber on the inside tire when turned. and that keeps the tread on the road providing grip and reducing understeer. Dialing out caster on a w211 will increase understeer
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
Wow! What a difference! The caster I pulled out from this mod worked so well that I put the pump back to stock pressures. I have been complaining to my self about how heavy the steering feels in this car since the day I bought it and NOW its like steering a Caddy with fantastic feed back. I ended up pulling 2.3 degrees out with caster and she drives perfect. Totally different car now so thanks for the "slotting" the upper ball joint advice/trick. Would not have thought of that.

I like your direction with the sway bar, I think Delrin bushings and your "pivot relocation" will get results, with what I think is an already too heavy bar.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:44 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by AMGPilot
Taking out caster can actually be bad for handling. Caster does two things it increases first it provides self centering of the steering and that's what everyone thinks that caster is for. Caster does one other very important thing especially in a large sedan with moderate body roll. It decreases negitive camber on the inside tire when turned. and that keeps the tread on the road providing grip and reducing understeer. Dialing out caster on a w211 will increase understeer
True, at stock ride hight with OEM size tires. Negative camber is not hard to get loads of in a W211. Most people that are looking for better handling start off by lowering their car, then wider front rims & tires. Taking some of the excessive caster out, is one little step.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 03:02 PM
  #32  
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unless you replace our air suspension with adjustable coilovers, upgrade sway bars to bigger units, install a GOOD LSD you will be stuck with a car that handles fairly decent for a Mercedes. A LOT handle much much worse.

in regards to steering, uping the pressure will only make your steering wheel lighter in feeling.

we do not have steering racks with adjustable ratio's like some of these newer cars have.

almost any car can be made to handle better...the question is how much are you willing to spend to do so. most race prepped road race cars have fully custom suspension down to the arms and possibly arm/suspension attachment points. in some series they are allowed to move shock towers and steering rack locations a approved amount from OEM.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 03:14 PM
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Better handling has to be looked at with an open mind so to speak. If I am driving a car like this that has the feeling of constantly fighting the steering wheel and adjusting the caster eleminates this...then to me it will be an easyer car to "handle". My first impression of this car when I bought it was "something is wrong with the power steering pump...its to hard to turn the steering wheel going into a turn" So I put a new pump on. Did nothing.

Now for that loss of camber,I also put back in and then some to combat the negitive aspect of the caster removal.
To me the responce is so much faster its like driving a completely different car,still stable at high speed,quicker to navigate for say an autocross event and much more of a pleasure to drive.So again for the under steer problem ...a little more camber will fix it. Also the adjustments made all around are very small but provide great feedback to the driver and thats what I am after. I am also going to swap out my 900lb springs and pop in 1,000lb springs for a little flatter turning and some k mac bushings and leave it at that.

Last edited by SICAMG; Jan 30, 2015 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by hachiroku
unless you replace our air suspension with adjustable coilovers, upgrade sway bars to bigger units, install a GOOD LSD you will be stuck with a car that handles fairly decent for a Mercedes. A LOT handle much much worse.

in regards to steering, uping the pressure will only make your steering wheel lighter in feeling.

we do not have steering racks with adjustable ratio's like some of these newer cars have.

almost any car can be made to handle better...the question is how much are you willing to spend to do so. most race prepped road race cars have fully custom suspension down to the arms and possibly arm/suspension attachment points. in some series they are allowed to move shock towers and steering rack locations a approved amount from OEM.
THIS.

No car can't be made to handle. It's a myth that just because its a four door Benz it needs to handle bad but be prepared to spend alot of money. That's why no one does custom work because they don't think it's worth it. Shell out $100k and drop the weight down to ~1550kg with carbon everywhere and lightweight customs parts and you'll handle alright ...who's gonna do it though haha. Honestly if I was a billionaire or even a 50+ millionaire I would actually do that :P Would have an insane E55 haha.
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 04:50 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master

I like your direction with the sway bar, I think Delrin bushings and your "pivot relocation" will get results, with what I think is an already too heavy bar.
I had my sway bar out last summer, turns out it's hollow, just a piece of tubing.
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Old Jan 30, 2015 | 03:01 PM
  #36  
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since i have coilovers, i should hit the track again with better brakes and tires...
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 12:54 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by StarvingArtist
I had my sway bar out last summer, turns out it's hollow, just a piece of tubing.
Good swayers are hollow since it's just as stiff as a solid bar without all the weight
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 01:03 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AMGPilot
Taking out caster can actually be bad for handling. Caster does two things it increases first it provides self centering of the steering and that's what everyone thinks that caster is for. Caster does one other very important thing especially in a large sedan with moderate body roll. It decreases negitive camber on the inside tire when turned. and that keeps the tread on the road providing grip and reducing understeer. Dialing out caster on a w211 will increase understeer

I would agree with you but in this instance I think you are wrong.

These cars run upto 12degrees of castor stock. An e60 m5 runs about 5-7degrees of castor.

The fact is I did this mod and probably dialed out upto 3.5 to 4 degrees of castor with this an the bottom bolts moving the wheel back therefore decreasing castor.

Its a night and day difference! These cars simply dont turn in right with the stock wheel alignment end of story! Same tight touge like road I went down before plowing into corners could be taken at speed and with confidence it wouldnt plow as long as you didnt get silly.

I highly suggest you try it before being such an armchair critic.

Last edited by austingtir; Jan 31, 2015 at 01:08 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 01:25 AM
  #39  
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The sway bar mod sounds like a great idea. Can you post pics of what you come up with for the link?

It has surprised me a bit nobody makes swaybar upgrades for this car. As with the airmatic its probably the only cheap way to flatten the car out more in the corners.

I honestly dont think the airmatic is as bad as some make out on here but then I do have the Arnott upgrades so maybe its just me.
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 09:51 PM
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I will try. I am really behind with pictures of all the stuff I have done lately.
As far as the ball joint mod ....do it!! The car is completely different and I love it. I am at 2.1 degrees of camber and she seems to love it. The roads are very cold but I always test on the same turns at the same speeds and push as hard as possible so I can tell if I am going in the right direction. I have had it on my alignment rack at least 8 times messing with it!!

MJ50...looks fantastic...tires nice and planted!!!

Last edited by SICAMG; Feb 1, 2015 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 10:37 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by MJ50


since i have coilovers, i should hit the track again with better brakes and tires...

Would be awesome to see this photo taken again in the same place with the coilovers.
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 06:53 AM
  #42  
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It will be a night and day difference!! It was with mine.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by e500slr
BenzoBoi and few other coilover swappers said it was a night and day difference.

Regarding the brakes, would a Brembo aftermarket 6 piston brake kit be superior to the E55s stock 8 piston brakes? I've seen a few brake kits on eBay for the E55 and I'm curious.
The 8 piston AMG brakes are made by Brembo.

If you retrofit lightweight rotors you will reduce the unsprung weight by almost 40 lbs. Even with the Airmatic (which I personally love for its cruising qualities) the improvement in handling is significant. Further, and assuming you have KMACS, if you lower the ride height and level the car, this also is a significant improvement. Add toe links, an LSD and you will have a car with impressive handling qualities.

Last edited by AgSilver; Feb 4, 2015 at 11:43 AM.
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 09:57 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by AgSilver
The 8 piston AMG brakes are made by Brembo.

If you retrofit lightweight rotors you will reduce the unsprung weight by almost 40 lbs. Even with the Airmatic (which I personally love for its cruising qualities) the improvement in handling is significant. Further, and assuming you have KMACS, if you lower the ride height and level the car, this also is a significant improvement. Add toe links, an LSD and you will have a car with impressive handling qualities.
[taking notes]

Great info!
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 10:58 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by AgSilver
If you retrofit lightweight rotors you will reduce the unsprung weight by almost 40 lbs.
Recommendations?
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Old Feb 7, 2015 | 03:51 PM
  #46  
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Just moved the sway bar bolt mounting hole,left the stock links, and she definitely flatter in the turns.The heim joint deal was not working out. I spent nothing really and the car drives like a totally different car!!
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 05:09 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by SICAMG
Just moved the sway bar bolt mounting hole,left the stock links, and she definitely flatter in the turns.The heim joint deal was not working out. I spent nothing really and the car drives like a totally different car!!

Did you do front and rear? I had a quick look at mine as I didnt have much time over the weekend and thought there wasnt alot of room to drill another hole further up but couldnt see much.... what I did notice on the front was that the link is pointing up towards the back of the car meaning drilling the front one out would work great to get it straight vertical.

I was actually thinking im going to have to take them off and squish the ends down more in a press to give me more flat meat to drill though......

This sounds great iv been happy with mine it doesnt even roll much when you push it though corners if this flattens it out more then I might have to go find some m5's at the local track days......

Last edited by austingtir; Feb 8, 2015 at 05:11 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 07:30 AM
  #48  
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When you change the rotors, go bigger as the main problem with the stock setup is that they overheat very easily. The larger surface area on bigger brakes will slow the heating process.

Reducing the caster will make it feel more nimble and have quicker steering inputs but will increase understeer and be slower through the corners.

Increase the front tire size by probably 20mm and leave the rear the same will help the understeer along with dialing in more camber in the front.

I am talking from an sl600 however they do have similar issues in regards to handing. Built in understeer, insufficient brakes and a lot of caster.
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 07:53 AM
  #49  
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I only did the front. What I did was drill the new hole as close as I dould the the "squish" part, grind a hardened washer flat on one side and put that in between the link and sway bar so it would bolt down flat. Also when you drill put the hole slightly up higher than the factory hole, When you swing the link to the new position it will want to "mount" slightly higher since it is leaning already towards the rear.

F1BHP...I know that there are some trade offs with the slight increase in under steer but the inputs back to me at the steering wheel make the car soooo much easyer to drive in EVERY condition I throw at it. Like I said when I first drove my car right off the trailer was "this thing feels like I am driving a car with two almost flat front tires". But now just whipping into a parking space is quicker and the wheel does not fight me LOL
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 11:01 AM
  #50  
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If the trade off works for you then that is all that matters. We all have different driving traits therefore different strokes for different folks. Good luck with it all.
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