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$250?

 

All of this Pullong posts **** is pissy and makes for a useless forum. Is that what you want?

 

I tried to buy a "BIP" heat exchanger and also a pump from the buckhead website, but nothing happened apart from me chasing up things that never got any replies, I am in New Zealand so I thought ok no shipping here....I guess?

BIP....Do you do a remote tunes like Eurocharged do?

If so, are there prices and shipping on your site?

Also FSP.......Tune.........If I 'aquired' a pulley, could I get you to provide me with a 'base tune'?

Thanks

 

its best to call them and yes they can tune it remotely as long as you have something to log data and air fuel.

 

Sorry guys, they were pretty useless, was just in bad mood is all....they were non contributing posts.

 

So no more cold start issues huh! I'm very very happy to hear. I have the BIP FSP tune with cold start and shift lag corrections made and still have cold start problems 50‰ of the time and shift lag 100% of the time. It's been bad to where I was going to take the fsp off if my fuel system replacement did not solve or even partially solve the issue. But after I get the car back and datalog, I'll send to Tony and seems he can make it happen and let me keep this beast of a mod!

 

Hmmmmm.... too soon to tell I suppose, and I hadn't thought about cold starts until you just mentioned it! It was very well warmed up when I brought it home yesterday, I'll feel it out more over the weekend and see how she does on cold starts, I'll post back if things get strange, I sure hope they don't!

 

So we better just wait with final judgment. Hopefully Cold-Start and Hiccup-Issues are gone.

Anyway back to topic about how they (potentially) solved the issue.
So when there is no resistor needed anymore that tells the ECU that the clutch is engaged, i wonder how they told that the ECU?
Either there is a possible value to remove the clutch in the ECU alltogther, or there is another possibility...
Let say the ECU of the 55K switches to a backup map for ignition, injection, etc, whenever there is no connector plugged in, they actually just need to tune those backup maps.
Would this be the proper way? I honestly dont know. What if another sensor fails or reads unplausible values?
Can the ECU switch then to another backup map like it used to do beforem or will it remain "stuck" in this current "no-clutch-plugged-in" backup-map?

Moosepuck, do you have access to a STAR Diagnosis? If so, try to check if the ECU has a fault-code for missing Supercharger-Clutch conecctor (open circuit).

I wait for your input gentlemen.

 

I can only speak for my car, but I have soft code for supercharger magnetic clutch open circuit without the resistor installed. But 0 and I mean zero issues with cold starts, power dip from leaning out, power dipping off after shifts, hiccup free.

I know that there talk about the hiccup on here, and I feel that's mostly related to the 82mm tb and that topic has been beat to death. First step is everyone that has a 82mm tb needs to make sure they have no air leaking at the adapter plate or gaskets.

And in all honesty with all your speculation, and covert information that you've gotten from a "German Tuner" that says everyone's doing it wrong, why don't you just go use them then? And it's funny how essentially all the fastest Mercedes in the World are tuned by US tuners!

 

Interesting, so i suspect, not that i have much insight into how those ECUs do work, they "just" tuned the backup maps for non plugged-in SC clutch connector. . We really need a tuner to deny or confirm that and what the possible downsides are.

I received no real "covert information", i was just trying to be helpful last year as sooo many people were experiencing the hiccup issues and the tuners could not solve it. There is no need to get hostile towards me really, i have no connection to them and i also want a US tune for many different reasons* .
So i just took the initiative and wrote some tuners that i heard only good about em and their Mercedes Tuning results in the German forums. One replied with those infos i posted above and his stated reasons for a "hiccup", which he explained me is a simple switch to a backup-map.

* German tuners are way to expensive for the gains they deliver IMHO. German AMG tuners tune more for safety i think but i have no real idea. Also there are just a very few that do tune Mercedes AMG engines, besides the big players like Brabus, MKB and AMG themself in germany. They only know dyno tuning here anyway, i have not heard about "canned tunes" or "box tunes" here in germany depending on your specific mods. No remote tune which sucks big time for me too.
Prices are all way way above 1000€ for a complete dyno-tune here in germany as most tuners have no own dyno, so you pay like 100++ €/hour for the dyno somewhere (they are rare in germany) + the 4digit sum for the tune and whatever else comes on top.
The "boss" of Kleemann Denmark showed me a dyno-tune sheet once, where he retuned a 55K car that was IIRC tuned in germany before and had all the Kleemann typical mods (168pulley, headers, cooling upgrades, larger TB).
He gained a lot of torque and HP from the re-tune - IIRC from 850NM crank to 935NM crank after he was done (Stock is 700NM crank). HP values from below 600 crank to a bit above 600 crank.
He just showed me that much power can be created by software alone if somebody knows his job, as i was expressing my concerns to him over the poor looking ports in the newer style Kleeman mid-headers that he sent me.

 

1Forcedbenz, since you car has been perfect with ZERO problems with your first box tune from whoever can you either contribute something useful or stay off this thread? I find you belittling observations or contributions from other posters annoying and uncalled for. So what if it's coincidence? Let people post and let the rest of us decide for ourselves what we will do with said information. If German tuners have figured out something US tuners don't know (or vise versa) and someone wants to let is know.... Wtf business is it of yours to stamp that out? Your car runs perfect, great we all know. Now either help or stay off the thread.

Wanna help? Post your setup and what could possibly be different between your car and ours.
I also have a BIP tune, 3 in fact, all for the same setup and my car still runs like crap. I enjoy driving the c250 more than my car since getting the fsp

 

And about the rather helpful part of your posts:
Did you have a dyno tune done to be able to eliminate the resistor? Or you just took it out. Do you have a tcu tune?

82mm tb part. I have it and had ZERO driveability issues before the fsp. I got what I can best describe as a soft hiccup prior to the FSP with the 82mm tb, however I could barely feel it and it did not affect the way the car drove at all. I would however get a MAP sensor code periodically (still stock driveability) and an egr code (said it was a very small leak).

I replaced MAP sensor, checked and replaced any of the vacuum hoses that wasn't snug, put a Spectra connection between the TB and rubber Y-pipe checked and recheck for vacuum leaks and pretty much eliminated that minor rather inconsequential hiccup and MAP code. Then I got the fsp and it all came back in a big way. Pretty much from the moment I installed the pulley and loaded the software.

 

Any news moose? Issue free?

 

Yes Moose any new news?
Non from me, fuel tank takes a month to get here so I'm waiting. Damn I'm enjoying the C250 rental since it doesn't shift lag.... Wtf?

 

She's been running great! I've been waiting a couple of days just to give it a few cold starts. It now runs as you would expect with an FSP, no s/c clutch delay. It does have noise at idle, but that's not in the tune. With headers, no cats or resonator, it doesn't stand out much though, she's just noisy all around. My only regret is not going with BIP in the first place, those guys answer the phone and your tuner will actually talk to you, offer support, etc... your experience may vary dependent on an infinite number of variables



Anyone here running with a blocked off bypass valve ??? Or is that just a bad idea, might relieve idle noise and shift firmer, or blow up... ?

 

To anyone who currently has a FSP on their car...

Can you please comment on how loud/obnoxious the rattling metal to metal sound is at idle? I've been told that it's actually quite loud and can be heard from a short distance away.

 

I honestly do not find it to be that obnoxious at all. I can only slightly hear it with the windows down and not at all when they are up. I have done a muffler delete on my car so that could cover it up some as well.

 

Moose- Any updates? Are you ready to put the clutch back on??

 

I have an update. I got a new map from BIP just yesterday. But before I loaded a new map he told me to remove the resistor and plug the supercharger plug back in. I did that immediately noticed a change in the way the car drove. Well, got home, uploaded the map, shift lag is reduced
and limited to only 2nd to 3rd shifts. Also no hiccups, though there was one attempt at a hiccup and the car the corrected itself midway through and just continue normally. This morning and evening, I did a cold start and no problems
I don't know, but it looks like this last map did solve most of the problems so I can concentrate on getting the shift lag nailed right and my fsp complete

 

Good to hear that Moosepuck and Kponti FSP is worked out. I've had mine on for a few months now and can't be any happier. Those guys at BIP are awsome I had limp mode issues when I first intalled it and they sorted it out for me.