Moosepuck

For those of you that have worked through some issues, what else can I try here?

When it runs right, it feels like it's potentially a lot of fun. But, it's un-driveable when it's not running right. I can tell when I start it how it's going to act. If I just rev it slightly, it tries to die and catches itself, it drives the same way. Any light throttle it chokes itself out and almost dies. It can't make it up a hill. If I shut it off, and restart it, it may do the same thing, or... usually on the third or forth try, it'll wake up and run decent, but still feels down on power(assuming maybe because my previous tune was a dyno tune), and is also doing a lot of surging. I don't believe it's the resistor as I now have it connected with butt-connectors, it's getting good contact. Any thoughts on why it's doing this by chance and how to correct it? It does it worse for the first 30 minutes or so of driving so it seems to get a little better as it runs for awhile longer, but still not great. The process repeats every time I drive it.

I've already asked for a new file so that I can put my clutched pulley back on but I'd really like to get this running correctly, and eventually head down to BIP for another dyno tune.

I'm glad it's not my daily driver as it's been a very frustrating experience so far.

This is what I've been told recently: "I have tried to explain this to everyone and they just don’t listen. I think the forum needs to know about these pulleys and how hard it is to get them running right." But I haven't been given any advice on how to resolve the issues so I'm asking you all.

180 crank pulley, stock throttle body, long tubes, fsp.....

any suggestions?

Thanks for any info.

2000UZJ

I know Denroll had some issues with the FSP. Try putting the key in the position before starting and waiting 10 seconds. Who tuned it for the FSP?

Moosepuck

I've tried that, no difference, thank you. This tune is from eurocharged.

boostedfe3

Check and see of you have a pending code when this happens. I have had my fsp for a little while. Even drove from TN to Florida and back in a weekend. I still get a map sensor code. Mine will run lean if the code is even pending and it makes the car buck and undrivable.

uraberg

Cannot help, but I'd like to run an FSP, so interested in the solution.

Moosepuck

I had that p0105 initially, the resistor was a 560 instead of a 560k so I swapped it out(shardul sent me one) and also did a throttle body reset at the same time, I haven't seen the code come back yet, but I'll double check this evening as I haven't looked in a few days.

Thanks for the suggestion

BC928

How could this be worked out with some, and not with others.

How come after the car has been out of production in its current form since 2006 we don't have a handle on the coding of this ECU? What is this community missing?

I don't knock or belittle the efforts of those attempting understanding of the ECU. But it is a computer, with code. Code is written and understood by humans.

Hulk

Not as simple with this ecu. There are actions and then reactions. Takes time to see what makes it tick and the fsp is still new to this ecu

BC928

Too much time has passed. If there were more people wanting it changed and understood, more people would be paying and there would be more innovation.

Look at what the 2015 Corvette people ALREADY have. They are on E85 and talking about coding options for dual fuel. Jesus.

The ECU needs to be cracked. There may just not be the money in it. And if there isn't NOW, there won't ever be. That's sad.

Hulk

Correct, there has never been a huge demand for this ecu. So it takes time unless like EC has stated someone is willing to pay 150$ an hour to make it worth their time

Ls1toAMG

Also this ecu had low production numbers. There will be more 14 and 15 stingrays than v8 compressors.

1ForcedBenz

Jerry can fix all this for you, that I know it from experience! The issues your having I had with different tunes I was trying as I was upgrading my vehicle and have put on 2 other FSP for people with no issues that were stock otherwise besides cooling upgrades.

What you need to be willing to do is except the fact that making it work with your setup IE "the mods have have" is the tune needs to be a ground up build from my understanding. It takes time, and time is money. At least with what I do and know it is.

My car again had the exact same issues, believe me its not the resistor or where its located ETC.... As mine will now run find even if no resistor is installed. I would recommend you reach out to your tuner and be willing to payout for a completely custom built tune. After all its the name of the game, and everything that's done custom carries a price tag. I can say without a doubt I love the FSP and wouldn't go back,although at times I wanted to out of frustration. These just aren't simple box tunes at this point unless your and only mods a FSP. Outside of that everything other supporting mod is requiring custom hardware tooling! If you need any other insight let me know.

Crissus

I'd say you need to datalog your cars ECU to see what the ECU is trying to do, when it runs that bad.

Worth the wait

What is the size of the fsp?

With a 180 on the bottom I am curious about what level of boost you are running.

Moosepuck

Maybe if I was local, certainly not remotely...

I have the stock size FSP.

I've been told that BIP can likely get it running right for me, I'll just need to touch base with them soon(they're only 4 hours away).

I'll update whatever happens whenever it happens.

1ForcedBenz

Well I live about a 1000 miles away from him and everything was done VIA remote tuning and data logging. Why would it make a difference if you were local or not? Data and information is gained the same way and can be sent over email.

And i'll tell you whats happening when your cars choking out and your not able to give it any throttle--- Its going lean cutting fuel out completely. I'm not sure why but I always felt like it was related to tuning pertaining to the bypass valve and the car going into a limp fuel cut.

Moosepuck

When I'm told "Nothing you can log to help. I need the car to really get it perfect." and "I have tried to explain this to everyone and they just don’t listen. I think the forum needs to know about these pulleys and how hard it is to get them running right. We have started the process of removing them from the website."

I'm looking for other options. Not trying to get off point here, just looking for a solution, it seems eurocharged is not going to be part of that solution. I've already received a tune from them so I can put my clutched pulley back on. I'm just trying some last ditch efforts.

Sounds to me like it's go back to clutched or give BIP a shot.

thanks

Moosepuck

I have an appointment with BIP next Thursday, I'll update after I get back home. I probably won't drive the car until then. Fingers crossed!

99lightning

good news.

WANTED!!

Definitely keep this thread updated with results. I'm getting ready myself to go fixed and have Tony do my retune for it as well once I get my car back.

Crissus

This is... just... im speechless...
The Gap between "get it perfect" and "its currently running totally like crap" is huge...
The tune runs with many of the other guys. I wonder.... man this sucks so bad...

ghlainez

I have 77mm FSP and I had one small issue going into limp mode but got BIP to sort it out and all is good.

99lightning

hang on if you drive with ghlainez.

boostedfe3

I still get the P0105 code every now and then. I have changed the map sensor twice and so far it hasn't been able to be tuned out. Even done a smoke test on the system to check for leaks. Other than that it runs perfect. I do have the mb 82mm the tb with the fsp

Crissus

Which tuner did you used? Is that code connected with the lean-mode condition (aka hiccup-mode) ?