mine too. kinda sux. less than 3K miles.

 

Sorry to hijack , but figured this a good thread to ask what s/c belt are most running ? was going to go with a trusted oem one , but see alot of the hd green belts. Having trouble finding the correct gates green belt is there an oem direct replacement

 

That sucks. You know for next time. Luckily they are cheap enough to replace very regularly.

On a separate note, are the aftermarket aluminum pulleys good quality? It sounds like just the bearings are crap?

 

 

I guess I am trying to understand why oem pulleys last 50k miles and aftermarket ones last 3-5k miles. Did they use lower rated bearings that are inappropriate? I believe they are nsk.

I have a rusty smooth SC tensioner pulley but I don't want to have to take it off all the time for bearing replacement if I get the alloy one.

 

 

Does anyone know of any alternative to Dayco 89103 ?
In europe I can only find it on Amazon for almost 100 £ which is almost as much as the complete unit from febi.

Does anyone know if the pulley for the steering is sold separately? I have some play and see no part number in epc

For the tensioners, do you replace pulley or entire unit?

 

If you buy OEM then you replace the whole tensioner, aftermarket is just the pulley. Last time I looked the prices seemed to have come down a lot for OEM idlers. I would probably have just got them but I ended up getting aftermarket aluminum ones. Vrp sells them all separately so that might be worth a look especially if they have a sale.

I don't know much about the power steering pump pulley but I assume you can press out the bearing for replacement like any other.

 

How much back and forth play is normal when you move the pulley with your hand without the belt on? I guess nothing?

I could move the plastic one of the double pulley a lot back and forth. Same with the sc tensioner but less play. Any harm in just replacing pulley on tensioner?

 

No play is best. As long as the movement is at the bearing only you can replace just the pulley. The accessory tensioner is cheap enough to just replace the whole thing. Supercharger tensioner is more expensive but worth replacing if you have a lot of miles.

 

Yeah, I think I just buy the tensioner since I save some on going with the Dayco

 

Which size is the ball bearing zzc3? I think 17x40x12 mm?
found a couple different sizes under the name 6203 ZZC3 NSK?

 

 

Just the one I had my eye on. Thank you!

 

Bbridwell, for how long have you been using the Dayco pulley and nsk bearing? Any issues? Should I go with Dayco/nsk combo or febi bilstein complete unit for around 230 USD?

 

97,000 kilometers on the first set (installed at 145,000 kilometers) and ~44,000 kilometers on the second set (installed at 242,000 kilometers).

I only run pulleys, bearings, and belts for a maximum of 60,000 miles, then replace whether needed or not. I tend to be preventive maintenance inclined rather that wait for a failure on the side of the road. I regularly take a road trip of 850 kilometers one-way and at one point the nearest Mercedes parts suppliers are literally 290 kilometers behind me and 290 kilometers in front of me. That would not be a good place to break down, especially during a winter ice storm (last one I made the mistake of driving in it took me 7 hours to cover 120 miles and I counted 27 vehicles in the ditches before I just gave up and sought shelter)

First set was a Dayco serpentine belt tensioner (89335) and Febi supercharger belt tensioner (36981). Serpentine belt idler pulley was a Febi 36931. Dayco supercharger idler pulley was a 89012 (should have used the 89130) plus the NSK 6203ZZC3.

Second set installed at 150K miles: serpentine belt using a Febi 15875 tensioner plus Febi 44977 idler pulley. Supercharger drive belt was a Dayco 89130 plus the 6203ZZC3 bearing in the idler pulley plus Febi 36981 tensioner pulley ($220 from FCP Euro).

Using the Dayco 89130 plus the new bearing only cost me about $25. I'll rework the supercharger idler pulley again at 338,000 km rather than spend hundreds of dollars on a replacement. Don't cheap out on the bearing; only go for a quality one as the $3 cheap bearings will throw out the grease within days.

I see no reason you cannot find a Febi equivalent to the Dayco 89130. Those specifications are:
-diameter 90mm
-width 26.2 mm
-flange yes
-belt width 6-rib
-bearing ID 17mm

 

Thank you for the details. I plan to run the same nsk bearing as you mentioned. I've send a email to Febi with the specs. Hopefully they got something that will fit.

 

Does anyone have the tourqe for the double idler bolt? Is it 35nm?

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7709284

It's in the table section; Bolt, guide pulley for compressor and major assembly belts to timing case cover, M8 x 78 mm, 68 N-m

 

Thanks! Wis made me unsure
i ended up using a T50 and 10mm spanner.

 

Were you able to find a suitable alternative to the Dayco 89130 in UK/Europe?

I'm also in the UK and struggling to find an alternative for a reasonable price

 

Dayco never got back to me and I didn't want any hassle so I ended up just buying the febi bilstein unit. It's available at autodoc and winparts.

 

I contacted febi, no joy. Amazon (USA) ships to the UK, so that is likely the best option but they are out of stock.
Investigating other manufacturers, ACDelco seem to do an equivalent but it looks as though it is metal not plastic.

ACDelco
Flanged Idler Pulley
Part Number: 36157

 

Yeah, I ment the complete OEM replacement febi unit. You could buy that for around the equivalent of 250 £. That's what I went with in the end. Shipping from USA to Sweden is slow and we have high import cost.

I also contacted febi with no luck.

You might have an interesting find there since it's only the plastic one that cracks.

 

I replaced the complete febi unit on my SL55 last year, so trying to avoid spending another £200+ if possible. The plastic has now broken on the G55, so planning on rebuilding the old SL55 one which I kept.

I'm leaning towards just buying the metal one listed on amazon by ACDelco. Will replace the 6203ZZC3 bearings also. $50usd gamble.

Does anyone know how to separate the 2 pulleys?