SilverE5588

So I have been noticing an increase in the oil pump type whine noise lately mixed in with a groan , and had a feeling something else was going on .Finally had some time to dig into it today . Checked the power steering pump and a/c compressor first which seem to be the usual culprits , but I found otherwise here .Pulled the belts & found the water pump pulley with some play - also found it making an odd rubber squeal/whine noise just spinning the pump by hand .

Looking into ordering a pump assuming the mb oem rebuilt pump #113-200-01-01-80 are of quality , as it looks like brand new pumps are no longer available for us ? Also upon some searching looks ill have to bleed the I/c pump after , and the engine side is self bleeding through the reservoir . Obviously heat on drive and recheck etc.

bbirdwell

While you have the water pump out that would be the time to either replace the alternator or pull it and install new voltage regulator with new brushes.

Only rebuilt water pumps are available and the part number you have is the one I used.

Be very careful with the hardline between the coolant reservoir and the upper radiator hose. Remove it before messing with the upper radiator hose. If you break it it's a $30 part.

Removing the electric fan makes it much easier to work on the front of the engine; particularly the bolt for the supercharger idler pulley.

If you have STAR you can go into the motor electronics (ME) section to activations and use that to activate the heat exchanger coolant pump. Alternatively, you can go into the trunk and jumper the relay; it will be listed as the fuel pump relay on the non-AMG cars but is the heat exchanger coolant pump relay on the AMG. Go to Pelican Parts tech info and look up on how to test a fuel pump and that is the relay you want. Don't forget to clamp off the rubber line just below the bleed fitting and loop the bleed fitting back to the coolant reservoir.

Be advised the torques values on some of the bolts depend upon whether or not it is a new casting with untapped holes or a used casting with tapped holes.

I don't remember the torque values but I'll see if I can find the info on them. I recommend as you remove them you place the bolts into/onto the replacement water pump, then after removal of the old pump transfer the bolts to the old pump, then you will know which bolt goes where as you install the new pump. It seemed like a lot of bolts to me...

SilverE5588

For sure on alternator etc. didn't realize how open it was in there once all that other stuff is out of the way. I did the 010 I/c pump not too long ago , so thats good - its still fresh in my mind on bleeding it . Now on the engine side of things - from what I gathered the overflow reservoir is self bleeding , heat on for 10mins or so cap off and drive and recheck etc. kind of thing is all thats needed ? Thanks for the heads up on everything.

bbirdwell

A photo or two here of the process when I pulled mine...
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ummary-2k.html

I first attempted to pull a vacuum prior to filling the cooling system; first attempt popped a 13-year old o-ring...repaired that and was partially successful using a vacuum fill the second time. Failed to get all of the required coolant in the reservoir so I carried a gallon jug of pre-mix in the trunk for the next week. IIRC, I had to add a pint or so several times over the week but eventually it settled on full and no more was required.

SilverE5588

Thanks for all the info in that link.

SilverE5588

I see the bosch voltage regulators are only 30 something bucks surprisingly at fcp . Is it worth it to spend the 80 on an mb regulator or they're nearly the same anyway . These are generic right- asking because i believe my alternator is an older unit.

bbirdwell

Go with the Bosch regulator. Here are the photos showing which bolt goes where and the torque values.

SilverE5588

Awesome thanks for all the details there. I'll likely be doing this over the weekend , may post some pics etc.

SilverE5588

I also plan on replacing my starter while im in there. Will it be any easier with the alternator etc out while doing the water pump ? or does it have to come out from the backside anyway . Seems like most go the engine mount/exhaust removal to replace it but wasn't sure .