RedBullJnky

Should be fine.

You should ****** those wheels too

Hotsauce55

What kind Of wheels are they? I know they are 20's and 1 has about 6 inches of curb rash But rest are beauty

RedBullJnky

They look like Vossen CV3s, but I could be wrong. Either way, I would grab them if I could. It's cheaper to fix 1 wheel with curb rash, then it is to buy all 4 wheels.

Hotsauce55

They are not Vossen's CV3's but look like them. Upon closer inspection they have a different design close to the lug nut area.

Picked up the diff this weekend. Anything I should consider having Eurocharged replace before putting diff in? Bearings or bushings etc?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

fluid

obiwantoby

Is the latest part, 211-350-50-62-80, drop in replacement for the axle shafts and other OE equipment?

• SKU:211-350-50-62-80
• Other Names:Axle Housing
• Description:E55 amg.
  
• Condition:Remanufactured
• Replaces:211-350-50-62, 211-350-50-62-60, 211-350-50-62-88

green1212

E55 rear diff: I have an E55 rear diff rebuilt with the cls63 "limited slip" inside. Just so heavy tho to ship?? I would make it a good deal for you. I don't have an E55 anymore. Thanks

INDYbenzes

How many miles does your E55 have?
My 2006 has 43,000 miles on it and while the differential is running fine I might do a fluid change to extend its life.

kevm14

Any idea why some of these (not sure which bearings, assuming it's bearings) go bad? Leaks and low fluid? Too many open diff burnouts? Metallurgy flaws? Bad luck?

E63007

You can always do what I did on my 2007 E63, that is, and buy 3.06 gears ( Ring & Pinion ) out of a Challenger SRT8 from same era ( during those Daimler/Chrysler years when all trannys were made by Daimler=Mercedes)!! I was surprised the SRT8 Case actually had the Mercedes Logo on it! I ended up using the Pinion Gear/bearings/races from the SRT8 in my E63 case too! The guy who removed the Diff told me about how great the gears and bearings were and even though I told him I had already purchased new ones, he insisted the bearings/races were flawless and proceeded on the spot to help me get the Pinion set in place! In the end, however, my skills at installing the LSD/Ring gear along with the Axle Bearings/races didn’t work out as smoothly as I had hoped it would without using a case expander. So after installing it and driving it only to realize a harsh vibration particularly during deceleration, I had to remove the Diff yet again and have it rebuilt! I was able verify, however, that my worst fear of the remote TeamViewer TCU flash not working did, in fact, work!

Unfortunately, after being off the road for about year due to my rebuilding the entire Rear suspension with K-Max bushings for the OEM Upper Arms, new Torque Arms and Carrier Bushing, UPD Tow Arms, Rebuilt Air Springs, new Airmatic Shocks, Subframe Bushings and rear differential bushings as well as front cross-member bushings, new rubber disc’s on the Drive Shaft, tranny valve body clean and gearshift lever bushings, Rear Main Seal, Steering rack bushings, Black Series Tranny Bushing, my radiator started to leak and I determined my A/C compressor was shot due to that mysterious oil leak presenting itself only there. So I in the midst of installing a new Condenser and a Radiator which, by the way, doubles as the Tranny Cooler ( WIS has it wrong in my case as it describes the Engine Oil Cooler below as being the tranny cooler when in fact that is actually an extension of the engine Oil Cooler!?!) that is hidden inside of passenger side of the radiator itself. Further, on the front side of the New Condenser is the mounting bracket for of the Power Steering Cooler! The tranny Oil Tubes both lead to the bottom of the front passenger side of the radiator where they are to to be disconnected. The Tranny lines that are mounted on the Radiator itself remain mounted. The A/C lines run under the bottom Driver Side of the Radiator where they are clamped onto the connecting lines via One nut, when removed, allows you to gently pry open both lines. Whereas the P/S lines run driver side around the radiator and the cooler is mounted to the front of the Condenser. I used a 2x4 block and some velcro straps to temporarily suspend the Power Steering Cooler to keep it in place thereby allowing me to keep that system closed. Once the A/C Lines and Transmission Lines are disconnected, both the Radiator and Condenser come out as one unit. The Tranny lines that are secured to the Radiator via “U” shaped fittings into which the tranny hoses clip into remain attached during removal. Trying to remove these tranny lines in-situ would be difficult, if not impossible! So taking them out together and then removing the tranny hose fittings from their respective connections first while popping them out on the bench is the way to go. Also, that Engine Oil Cooler that sits below has mounts that secure each side with screws and both clip into fixtures on the lower radiator. Furthermore there is a rubber baffle that serves to protect debris from entering each from below that is incorporated into both these mounts and runs across the bottom of each. Removing the entire front bumper is essential, FYI.

kevm14

First I've seen anyone replace these. Is this common? I guess it would be easy to check. Drive on ramps, start car, have someone gently turn the wheel and watch for bushing squish.

Fun. I have a "mysterious" wet line around that area and it does seem to be compressor oil but I haven't been able to determine if it's coming from the compressor itself, a line, or a line junction. I was considering giving the system a boost of oil but there are no symptoms of anything wrong (at the moment). One of my other cars was leaking refrigerant oil as well and the A/C was not as good as it used to be. When I added the PAG that added just enough refrigerant to get the system back to normal. Now I feel like it needs it again.