Vanquish59

Hi, I have a 2008 e63 and the car feels a bit slow, like the torque rly isnt there until the 5k rpm and its not like a push u back in ur seat feeling either. I recently did xpipe in place of resonators and maybe that made the car slow. Also, I notice some odd noises when driving manual. For instance, if I drive manual for 10 minutes, my oil temperature goes to about 120C via the dashboard computer and I hear a strong whistle noise like when a tea kettle is done boiling at idle. Any clue? What should oil temp be in general?

nikehead1980

Remove the x pipe I just seriously came across this issue also. I removed my secondary cats and put in an x pipe and it felt and sounded like the car was struggling. Once removed I went with 3in straight pipes. As for the heat issue...I wouldn't drive it like that for too long my friend that might lead to some serious issues down the road. Good luck!

Vanquish59

Small world lol. My xpipe is on the resonators instead of 2nd cats. Do you think its the same effect? Plus with xpipe in place of resonators, I hear no burples on deceleration, which sucks.

2000UZJ

250*F is closing in on warping an aluminum block. The engine is so hot the car is running like a slug. Get it diagnosed, you have a cooling/oil issue.

Ls1toAMG

Running at that temp. I wouldn't be surprised if you have a bad head gasket. I would not drive the car.

Vanquish59

I seriously think u guys are over-exaggerating like crazy lol. In the C63 forums, everyone is getting around 100-110 CELSIUS FOR THE OIL TEMPERATURE. I am driving pretty hard to get to 120C.

REMEMBER I have w211 E63 not a E55

stockC43

On my ml63 normal oil temp is 100-105c. I've seen it as high as 114c under more aggressive street driving. 120 is not too hot and I "believe" mb even has a oil temp too high warning on these cars.

The whistle your hearing is probably a intake manifold leak. The m156 has multiple common vacuum leaks from the intake and they usally whistle. If you change rpm slightly does the tone of the whistle change? If so, it's probably a vacuum leak.

Also, the m156 doesn't pull below 5000 rpm

Vanquish59

1) Yes on regular driving I get around 100C - 105C. When I punch it, especially on manual, it can rise to 120C. I drive manual and sometimes keep the gear on high rpm (4000+) for several minutes.
When it reaches temp around 118C+, a very loud whistle is heard when I'm waiting at the red light. When I turn the car off and turn it back on, it disappears.

2) I definately do hear a whistle noise (different from #1 above) and I also hear it change the tone when rpm changes. The thing is though, I recently changed my intake manifold bolts. Could this perhaps be a different leak? The sound is really really annoying.

Ls1toAMG

Say whatever you want. 120c is 248f. No reason run a car over 220f. There is no advantages and there is a lot of disadvantages. Performance wise it's a power killer.

Vanquish59

Maybe for your engine size it is? But maybe for mine it isn't? Can you backup what you are saying?

HeissRod

Are you thinking coolant temp or oil temp?

Vanquish59

I'm referring to oil temp in celsius.

stockC43

No reason to keep it above 4k rpm unless your on the race track with good air flow. Your just heat soaking the sh** out of it, especially if your hitting traffic lights.

The intake gaskets are 1 of about 15 different intake manifold leaks the m156 has.

Vanquish59

Who or whom should I take this to so they can perform a good check? Also, I know that If I ever get a low coolant warning light, I should take it straight to dealer since those are signs of soon to be head bolt failure.

stockC43

honestly, a dealer. There always updating parts and repair procedures for m156 intake leaks. There is a relatively new bulliten braking down all of the known leaks, how to find them and how to repair them.

Yes, if your car ever uses ANY coolant do your head bolts immediately. In my experience, more than 50% of the cars I've seen with bad head bolts have had at least 1 rod slightly bent. Usally the ones that put off the repair.

Vanquish59

Any other symptoms I should be looking out for? What are the odds and in ur experience, how often do you see the headbolt failures on the e63? I hear it's more prevalent in the c63?

HeissRod

I know what YOU were talking about. I was asking the other guy.

Vanquish59

Do you think my temps are normal?

stockC43

Missfire codes, coolant smell etc. I've seen head bolts on all pre mid 2010 cars. I just think out of m156 owners, c63 owners have a larger online presence.

Ls1toAMG

Sorry I was thinking coolant

2000UZJ

Same here...still seems hot regardless of what fluid it is. Then again, I noticed my oil temp was around 110-120*C on the highway today.

msheredy

Typically hot oil and cool coolant makes for more HP. Cold oil can actually rob the engine of horsepower which is a reason why race cars warm up their fluids prior to a race.

HeissRod

Hot oil flows better.

Vanquish59

Coming previously from an E55, I wish I still had that car. The torque on the E63 is only 465 and at 5000 rpm+ vs 516 at like 2000rpm. So essentially street torque is limited on E63. I used to easily cut off slow drivers on streets with E55, but not too easy with E63. That torque was a drug and Im disappointed. I wouldve gone with e63tt if only it was in my price range. Anyways, im gna replace the xpipe on my resonators with straight pipe? Anyone done this?

Critter

Try running a 55 at 4ooo rpm for ten minutes in citydriving and see just what performance issues you have. Probably a civic would lose u.
"The thing is though, I recently changed my intake manifold bolts. Could this perhaps be a different leak? The sound is really annoying."
Did you also do the gaskets or just the bolts, was there a previous issue or was the replacement just for entertainment.
Whistle noise in any engine is not good as uncontrolled air entering can act like a cutting torch and damage internals, especially valves and pistons, rings etc.
E63's are not slow.