Unicorn Down - Accident I Got Hit
#1
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Unicorn Down - Accident I Got Hit
Got hit coming down a turn lane. The stopped traffic was letting a car exit a gas station and she tagged me. No injuries but......
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2004
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Ugh... That brings me pain... I'm nauseated... That's a beautiful amg specimen!!!!!
Sorry man
Sorry man
#3
Senior Member
Ouch!!!
Man that sucks but glad all are ok (exception of the E55). I think I saw your car in ATL when I was at BIP doing some things to mine.
Man that sucks but glad all are ok (exception of the E55). I think I saw your car in ATL when I was at BIP doing some things to mine.
Last edited by XSTAR; 07-28-2015 at 11:03 PM.
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#9
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Thanks!
Will get with insurance company tomorrow to get moved from tow yard to the repair place.
Car will be taken to Classic Car Motoring here in the Birmingham, AL area. They are the only MBUSA approved repair place in the State. Yeah, that's AL for you, limited options but do great work.
http://www.classiccarmotoring.com/
My only fear is from an adjustor friend who thinks they just could total it out which would be a nightmare for me. How do I replace a unicorn?
Will keep everyone updated as I get this done.
#14
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At the Dr now getting looked over. Woke up sore in neck and back area and sore left index finger.
#16
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This was my initial thought when cost of fixing comes into play. Hope it works out as you need as it would be hard to replace. My white/pano '04 has 44k miles now and I doubt I would find that combo again.
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#19
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'06 E55
If they total it, buy it back and then fix it up. Airbags didn't deploy and that would have been my biggest hangup. The website where I ordered my belly pan has lots of different fender and hood options (I think oepartswarehouse.com or something like that) in different price ranges. Another Suvneer bumper for a few hundo. Your front lip looks good to go, so can be reused. Then just add headlights, all the brackets and things, and whatever else we can't see that got smashed. Oh, and a wheel.
But I don't kow. Going back and seeing how far back the fender got pushed might mean getting all the panels lined up again would be difficult. Did that damage the door?
But I don't kow. Going back and seeing how far back the fender got pushed might mean getting all the panels lined up again would be difficult. Did that damage the door?
#20
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I know on my E500 when a truck backed into it.... new door, fender, mirror...it was $7500 in damages. This looks far worse in the 15k-18k range. I agree with Denroll, I would buy it back for pennies on the dollar.
#21
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The miles on the car is of no significance to the insurance co. except for calculating book/replacement value. Let's say for the sake of discussion that your particular year/miles figures to a value of 13-16k. Depending on the % this particular insurance co. uses to signify "total loss" (usually in the 70-85% range), it will take damages in the range of 9k-13k to write it off.
Your sentiment on the matter is definitely a factor too. Do you want it fixed? That damage isn't bad from a structural point IMO and the car is definitely fixable to the point where the repairs will be indiscernable, but I'm not you, and hell, you might just want out of it.
Also to keep in mind (if you didn't want it back), that taking it to a body shop for estimates, even if it's a shop approved by the insurance co. , the shop doesn't want it totaled because they want a big ticket job like that to make $$ on, so they may intentionally write the ticket low to skate under the "total loss" #, and then supplement the claim later. Once the job is started the insurance co. will almost always complete the repair even if it goes over the replacement cost. That's the reason for the 15-30% cushion in the initial "total loss" #, it's to allow for unforeseen needed repairs and supplemental claims.
Lastly, remember this- on a job this big if you go through with repairs- the repair shop wants this job and you can negotiate little extra stuff you might want done into the amount they're being paid by the insurance. For instance your back bumper has a gouge on it where your garage door hit it while closing, or you want your mirrors color matched , etc.. You can almost always get them to include stuff like that. They won't be thrilled, and may initially tell you it's not possible, but the suggestion that another shop in town has already agreed to that will cure the managers amnesia and hell remember that it is indeed possible
Good luck!!
Your sentiment on the matter is definitely a factor too. Do you want it fixed? That damage isn't bad from a structural point IMO and the car is definitely fixable to the point where the repairs will be indiscernable, but I'm not you, and hell, you might just want out of it.
Also to keep in mind (if you didn't want it back), that taking it to a body shop for estimates, even if it's a shop approved by the insurance co. , the shop doesn't want it totaled because they want a big ticket job like that to make $$ on, so they may intentionally write the ticket low to skate under the "total loss" #, and then supplement the claim later. Once the job is started the insurance co. will almost always complete the repair even if it goes over the replacement cost. That's the reason for the 15-30% cushion in the initial "total loss" #, it's to allow for unforeseen needed repairs and supplemental claims.
Lastly, remember this- on a job this big if you go through with repairs- the repair shop wants this job and you can negotiate little extra stuff you might want done into the amount they're being paid by the insurance. For instance your back bumper has a gouge on it where your garage door hit it while closing, or you want your mirrors color matched , etc.. You can almost always get them to include stuff like that. They won't be thrilled, and may initially tell you it's not possible, but the suggestion that another shop in town has already agreed to that will cure the managers amnesia and hell remember that it is indeed possible
Good luck!!
#23
The miles on the car is of no significance to the insurance co. except for calculating book/replacement value. Let's say for the sake of discussion that your particular year/miles figures to a value of 13-16k. Depending on the % this particular insurance co. uses to signify "total loss" (usually in the 70-85% range), it will take damages in the range of 9k-13k to write it off.
Your sentiment on the matter is definitely a factor too. Do you want it fixed? That damage isn't bad from a structural point IMO and the car is definitely fixable to the point where the repairs will be indiscernable, but I'm not you, and hell, you might just want out of it.
Also to keep in mind (if you didn't want it back), that taking it to a body shop for estimates, even if it's a shop approved by the insurance co. , the shop doesn't want it totaled because they want a big ticket job like that to make $$ on, so they may intentionally write the ticket low to skate under the "total loss" #, and then supplement the claim later. Once the job is started the insurance co. will almost always complete the repair even if it goes over the replacement cost. That's the reason for the 15-30% cushion in the initial "total loss" #, it's to allow for unforeseen needed repairs and supplemental claims.
Lastly, remember this- on a job this big if you go through with repairs- the repair shop wants this job and you can negotiate little extra stuff you might want done into the amount they're being paid by the insurance. For instance your back bumper has a gouge on it where your garage door hit it while closing, or you want your mirrors color matched , etc.. You can almost always get them to include stuff like that. They won't be thrilled, and may initially tell you it's not possible, but the suggestion that another shop in town has already agreed to that will cure the managers amnesia and hell remember that it is indeed possible
Good luck!!
Your sentiment on the matter is definitely a factor too. Do you want it fixed? That damage isn't bad from a structural point IMO and the car is definitely fixable to the point where the repairs will be indiscernable, but I'm not you, and hell, you might just want out of it.
Also to keep in mind (if you didn't want it back), that taking it to a body shop for estimates, even if it's a shop approved by the insurance co. , the shop doesn't want it totaled because they want a big ticket job like that to make $$ on, so they may intentionally write the ticket low to skate under the "total loss" #, and then supplement the claim later. Once the job is started the insurance co. will almost always complete the repair even if it goes over the replacement cost. That's the reason for the 15-30% cushion in the initial "total loss" #, it's to allow for unforeseen needed repairs and supplemental claims.
Lastly, remember this- on a job this big if you go through with repairs- the repair shop wants this job and you can negotiate little extra stuff you might want done into the amount they're being paid by the insurance. For instance your back bumper has a gouge on it where your garage door hit it while closing, or you want your mirrors color matched , etc.. You can almost always get them to include stuff like that. They won't be thrilled, and may initially tell you it's not possible, but the suggestion that another shop in town has already agreed to that will cure the managers amnesia and hell remember that it is indeed possible
Good luck!!