Hi,
Just checking with folks on here as to which has been the most reliable SC pulley.
Anyone here has installed the UPD 77mm pulley ?
How long (Miles) have you had it on for?
How much power are you making (1/4 mile times would be helpful)?
Mods(Cooling mods ?)
Did you need upgraded injectors ?

Thanks

 

77MM is equal to the 180MM Crank pulley. You are maxing out the injectors and cooling system. I would do looped rail, injectors, HE, split cooling and a nice tune.

 

I'm running the UPD 77mm clutched and have been for about 3 months now, unknown amount of miles so I cannot comment on long term reliability

I think the user Exotic Metals has had the initial test UPD 77mm on his vehicle for around 1-2 years with no issues (don't quote me on that though)

Just going from my experience with it - The last time I had my vehicle on a dyno I had the 77mm, K&N filters, SL55 intake pipe, 1 step colder plugs, UPD BWK and UPD aluminium idler pulleys, Bosch 010 pump and PLM Heat Exchanger, TCU tune, Brand New Fuel Pumps and Sender Unit along with a super rich A/F ratio dropping to around 10.2 from a Eurocharged box tune - so basically the 77mm and tune were the only real power adders

I made ~80-95whp over the stock reading all with the A/F ratio dropping into the 10's on each run, 3 runs were done in under 2 minutes apart and each result was surprisingly within 5rwkw of each other

There were a few other completely stock E55s that ran that day and were all consistently ~80-100whp (60-73rwkw) less than mine

I love my 77mm Pulley

 

Nice. What were your tq numbers?

 

My Torque that day was 1206Nm on 20's with a 30 profile tyre in the rear instead of a 25 - if someone cares to do the math to get the derived figure that would be nice

But to put it into perspective, on that same day a Ferrari 599 F1 apparently with a tune made 1120Nm and an Audi R8 V10 with exhaust and tune made 1035Nm - the Audi was only making 3rwkw more than me with me running rich and all with basically a single bolt on, mods at the time are in my comment above

This was on a NZ made Dyno similar to a Mainline dyno (we dubbed it the "BallBreaker") because it reads way lower than a Mustang ("HeartBreaker") and also a lot lower than a Dyno Dynamics so I am not sure how those figures are when compared to the DynoJet versions that is most commonly used in the States

For example a couple of BMW V8 M3's on this dyno on the same day with exhaust, intakes and tune were just touching 310whp - some may say they weren't exactly happy with their results lol

 

Am I reading this correctly? 1206nm = 889tq holy crap

 

You need some cooling mods on that bad boy, that's probably why your a/f is so rich because the temps are so high and the ecu is dumping fuel to try cool things off.

 

My thoughts exactly, I have been logging since I got my pulley and during some logs my IATs ramp up really quick, basically they are now close to being on par with when the car was completely stock in the middle of summer, but it's (a warm) winter here right now, they haven't gone crazy high though and still seem to be within safe operating boundaries and I have opened my exhaust up now so that has seemed to help

I'm looking at purchasing a basic meth setup and running something like a 80/20 or 90/10 water/meth mix solely for cooling up top, I've figured out a meth setup will be more accessible locally for me and cheaper overall for me to buy and fit myself than importing||fabricating a trunk tank right now (which I will eventually organise in the near future)

 

Yeah that's correct, it was an unusual dyno made here in NZ

I think you will find if you divide this number by the diff ratio you will get a closer reading to what other dynos display, something like 455-500 ft-lbs at the wheels, but as I said I didn't know how to do the calculation for that and if my larger profile tyres would offset that value at all

All I know is that my wife finally screamed in the car after fitting the pulley and pulling onto the motorway for the first time so it received the ok from me

And to the OP so we don't get off topic here, the 77mm is the way to go for a simple bolt on and a big power increase, you won't need injectors for this mod from stock BUT cooling upgrades are definately necessary, I do however know of a guy running one of these with a stock cooling setup, headers and straight through exhaust and does seem to get heat soaked fairly quick but has no other issues with it

 

There is no way in hell a Ferrari 599 is making more than 1000Nm of torque, that's a weird dyno. It cannot be making 800Nm either, and definitely not at the rear wheels.

 

Here's one of my dyno sheets from the day, make sense of the numbers as you will, notice how I said the dyno was a ball breaker, with 77mm etc etc I only made 395ish whp, where the stock e55's were making just 300whp and one with a failed pump only pulling out 130whp

I know a guy with 83mm and mid length headers who makes 460whp on a Mustang and I pull on him with just the 77mm

All the dyno numbers were like this that day, I'm only going on the numbers by what I actually saw while there, and at the end of the day all dynos are is numbers

 

This makes me want a 77MM...but I'm scared

 

I have one

has about 5k miles on it

make about 500rwhp

its nice - I hate the hiccup though. I guess its impossible to get rid of. No one seems to want to help me figure it out. Everyone just blames each other.

 

What hiccup are you talking about?

I get a solid clutch engagement but I also got that from the stock pulley and is completely normal, but as far as any hiccups it has been very smooth in stop start traffic, while cruising and WOT

 

The issue is when the car shifts from 1st to 2nd in C or S mode there is a defined hiccup, jolt, or hesitation, not sure how to describe it.

Tuner says the gap for the SC is too big

Manufacturer of the pulley says the tune is wrong and zeros the throttle for a brief second.

Been driving like this for 6,000 miles and no one has answer.

I spend about 300 days a year on the road, all over the world and simply dont have time to find the problem, all I can do is tell them the issue I'm having and hoping they make the effort to fix it. No one has yet. Looks like I will have to press harder, which I would think everyone involved would like to avoid.

 

How's the daily driving? I just ordered the stage 1 Eurocharged and they were insisting the 83mm instead of 77mm if I daily drive.

 

I'm having the exact same issue with mine right now. (just got the 77mm installed a couple weeks ago). I had a similar "hiccup" and "chirp" with the stock tune and pulley, but now the "chirp" is gone and the "hiccup" is about 10x worse.

 

Nothing wrong daily driving with the 77mm, yeah the clutch engagement is a little bit more aggressive but the powers only there when you want to mash it and go, off boost its just like stock

 

Who is the tuner and who is the manufacturer of the pulley? I've been thinking it may be better to get both tune + pulley from the same place, to avoid finger pointing?

Would like to get a 77 clutched pulley + tune down the line

 

I also have the hiccup issue. I am working with Jerry to see if it is tune related.

 

I have a clutched 77mm also. I too have the 'hiccup' on the 1-2 shift. It drives me NUTS. It's like the fuel shuts off for .5 seconds and then it's back.

 

Also have the 77mm pulley and custom tune on the Dyno. Sometimes the hiccup is rather harsh and aggressive but I find it is only at light / part throttle application. I am trying to log it and see what is going on. I am pretty sure one day I was actually looking at my logging numbers as I was driving and I noticed the tps go wide open for a split second.. So I am starting to think for some reason at light throttle accelerating all of a sudden for a split second the throttle body goes max open then back to normal. Very weird. I have a stock throttle body btw

 

very interesting. i also noticed a harsh hiccup from 1-2 on light-medium throttle. i have a total of 5 different tunes for my 77mm from trying to get my afr corrected and weird thing is that one of the tunes its almost unbearable and on the one im on now its completely gone.

 

So what's the secret on how it's completely gone? Who did your latest tune to eliminate the problem.

 

All of the tunes are from Jerry. I never complained about the hiccup because was focusing on the AFR. I would just load the next tune and move on and load another and move on. Some of the tunes had it and some didn't. Strange.