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2004 E44
I have been battling this issue for over a year now and it has gotten worse.
It WAS an intermittent no start.
I would turn the key & feel the starter engage but it would not crank.
Try it again- it would crank and start. Only would have this issue once out of 10 or so starts.
I did replace the starter twice, battery, crank sensor,cam sensor,starter relay, remote batteries ( issue with both keys).
Now the issue has CHANGED completely. Now you turn the key and it will RAPIDLY crank but not start.
Try it a few more times and it will finally start.
I have not read about this rapidly cranking/no start issue. Has anybody else experienced this?
Last edited by SC-C230; 09-06-2015 at 11:40 AM.
Reason: Info
2004 E44
I have been battling this issue for over a year now and it has gotten worse.
It WAS an intermittent no start.
I would turn the key & feel the starter engage but it would not crank.
Try it again- it would crank and start. Only would have this issue once out of 10 or so starts.
I did replace the starter twice, battery, crank sensor,cam sensor,starter relay, remote batteries ( issue with both keys).
Now the issue has CHANGED completely. Now you turn the key and it will RAPIDLY crank but not start.
Try it a few more times and it will finally start.
I have not read about this rapidly cranking/no start issue. Has anybody else experienced this?
Same issue now for 2 years, anyone else have this going on?
The RAPIDLY cranking but not start issue -has stopped.
Now just back to -turn the key & feel the starter engage but it will not crank.
More frequently though. Does it almost every time you try to start the car.
I also replaced fuel pump & everything recommended from local dealership.
Also had a friend look at it with STAR DAS -nothing found.
I have a similar issue with my 02 C230. Sometimes the CPS/CSPS go bad but in my case it was a bad groundwire between the fuel pump sending unit (driver side) and the rear SAM.
When you turn the key to Second Position can you hear the fuel pump turn on from beneath the rear seats?
I have the same intermittent issue, star diag says nothing to see here eis good etc. and I tried to troubleshoot the obvious stuff, anyone have any info?
If you have a spare key I would try it. I had a similar issue and it turned out that the key was bad so tbe DAS (Driver Anti-theft System) would not send a signal to the injectors. No fuel or spark =No start. Hope this helps.
Hello
C180 W203 2005 not working remote with frequency , CAR Start , central locking and IR remote work good , not have DTC with scanner device
EIS 2095451908
F8 Fuse of rear sam good and have power 12v
i make two key 315MHz and 433Mhz for this EIS but not working remotes , Only lock and unlock of IR remote near driver door
Which computer have DTC if antenna crashed ?
how i can test antenna and receiver ? not have spare part for replace test
for removing antenna i need to opening roof cover ?
someone can help me what is the problem ?
Thanks - best regards
had the same problem on my 2010 ml300
so I decided to give it a go , my is a right hand drive
struggled a bit to get the ring off the switch that holds it to the dashboard also found the wires not long enough to come through the key hole to test
removed the steering shroud but struggled to get the switch through the hole but found if you undo the three screws on the panel near the pedals you can drop the switch through
easy to open the switch and found the three pin socket bent over with bad connections soldered the three connectors then built it back up then fed it up through the dash then wedged it between the foam block while I connected the two wires back on
I bought my starting battery 2.5 years ago from the MB dealer. It went dead and the dealer warranty is 2 years...
AutoZone sells the same battery with 5 year warranty (3 years replacement + 2 years prorated). The battery is made by Johnson Controls and rebranded to MB.
had the same problem on my 2010 ml300
so I decided to give it a go , my is a right hand drive
struggled a bit to get the ring off the switch that holds it to the dashboard also found the wires not long enough to come through the key hole to test
removed the steering shroud but struggled to get the switch through the hole but found if you undo the three screws on the panel near the pedals you can drop the switch through
easy to open the switch and found the three pin socket bent over with bad connections soldered the three connectors then built it back up then fed it up through the dash then wedged it between the foam block while I connected the two wires back on
all working fine after 1 hours work.
Thanks guys
I’m about to get it soldered however what do I ask them to solder... the back side of the board where that white connector sits?
09-06-2015 | 11:32 AM
