mr.right

Okay I have searched for a while and have not seem to find any threads with this exact issue I know what it is doing. Just want to understand why so I don't keep buying Sam's.

Okay so about 3 months ago I bought a 55w 8k hid kit (can-bus no CEL) about a month and a half into it the passenger side lights stop working. I mean high beam, fog lights, low beam, and turn signal. Found out the sam under the passenger foot area was fried. (I researched thanks to mbworld and found out that the sam controls those things and I saw a wire looked burnt.) So I replaced it and the lights worked flawless until tonight it shut off again I had a spare sam sitting around so I just threw it in there and It came back on, have not coded it yet so I took it back out but I want to know what could be causing the sam to be frying like this. Thank you for any help in advance.

cptncreme

55w is prob too much, should have stuck with a 35w kit

black06c230

Yep picky car so my money on the 55w ballast too

2000UZJ

Stock wiring can't handle prolonged 55W draw. 55W draws too much power and can overheat wiring/fuse panels.

mr.right

Okay makes sense I did research before I did it and I seen some guys running them I had my indy Mechanic turn xenon present on. But I will go get some 35w and see how that does. Thank you for the replies guys

2000UZJ

Is one side working? If so swap the ballast side to side and see what happened. Problem follows its the ballast, problem stays it's the wiring.

mr.right

Tried that and no it does not follow. Take in mind that nothing on my passenger side works. Only light that works is the side marker but my fogs,high and low beams, running lights/city lights, and turn signals all do not work

ss.dna02

I have a problem like this but with my Fogs. I have a 35w morimoto kit with can bus and my driver side wont turn on for nothing. I tried different can bus error deleters and swapping left for right and nothing. If i put back the halogen bulbs, they work.

SteveE400

Can you use the circuitry in the car to power a simple relay, then route the high-current lights' power from the battery through the relay to the lights?


We used to do this when we installed aircraft landing lights into 1960's American cars. Their light switches had built-in circuit breakers that couldn't handle the current draw. Running a fused line through a relay solved that problem permanently.

mr.right

Okay so bought some 35w 8k and changed sam let's see if it last.

bobgodd

Are you running these in halogen projectors? If so your light output is going to be awful.