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E55 - Transmission problems, jerking, sloppy shifting

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Old 02-21-2016, 09:31 PM
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2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
As others may have mentioned NEVER do a flush of an automatic transmission. I would bet money that caused this. Drop pan and replace filter only. Sorry for your trouble. These trans will last forever with lots more than stock power too.
Old 04-09-2017, 07:04 PM
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
So what's the verdict? Maxlife ok for the e55 722.6 in 2017? Their formula still good?
Old 04-09-2017, 08:23 PM
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CLS55
Originally Posted by menace2sobriety
My guess would be the valve body needs a slight refresh, sounds like you have a slight flare and bump shifts

I had very similar symptoms recently and just replacing the overlap valve sleeves rectified these symptoms, mine when cold would feel like it went into gear at every shift and then 50-100rpm more it would shud into gear as if in a manual dumping the clutch, mine would also flare up slightly before shifts and then sometimes slam into gear

Mine also got better as it warmed up (possibly due to heat swelling up the aluminium VB components making worn clearances closer) but symptoms still were there, this kit below resolved my issues 100% and also resolved similar issues in another E55s trans who did this same fix (his had metal shavings on his magnet as well)

Look into a Sonnex Master Overlap Valve Sleeve Kit - for $50-100 on ebay
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2317-mas...#tabs1-related

I have also attached a file which lists the parts Sonnex sell for our valve bodies and the symptoms those parts cure, you may also want to look at replacing the TCC damper valve and sleeve which is another part they have

Just a matter of dropping the pan, dropping the VB and then removing the side plates and removing the valves - toothpick may be needed - and then fitting the new ones, taking your time and sipping a few beers you could have it all done on axle stands in 2-3 hours max

Easy 3/10 difficulty

** DO IT WHILE IT IS COLD - LEAVE IT OVERNIGHT TO COOL

I'm not saying that this will fix your issue(s) , it is just something to consider - or even bring up with the workshop if they are not too familiar with the 722.6 transmission, it may save you the cost of a full rebuild

Some good reads on the Sonnex site - http://www.sonnax.com/articles/160-v...and-rebuilding

Good luck
Might be being thick but I couldnt see this on the list. Do you know what causes the double shift from first to second? Basically when WOT I get what feels like a double shift where the power cuts for a second then it shifts, sometimes the power comes back on then shifts. I thought maybe its the esp as im in christchurch and our roads are buggered so front wheels might be experiencing travel over bumps? It happens with esp off and seems to happen more often if revs are climbing quickly. I have no problems with other shifts that I have noticed but autos always do weird stuff in my opinion..
Old 04-09-2017, 09:45 PM
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
^^^How do you install those sleeves once you unscrew the plates anyway?
How do they come out?
Old 04-10-2017, 12:32 PM
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2004 E55
Originally Posted by MACEDON
^^^How do you install those sleeves once you unscrew the plates anyway?
How do they come out?
Sonnax sleeves are just over sized from the factory tolerances due to the aluminum wearing down overtime... the oversized valves/sleeves remedy this issue


Valves are held in place by springs, ***If you attempt this do one plate at a time and be very careful not to mix up springs*** the shifts are all pressure sensitive

Once VB has been removed and plate is off you can just look down the veins in of the VB and use a pic tool with the tip covered in electrical tape to move the valve out of the opening exposed when you removed the plate ( be careful to not mar the smooth surface of the valve!)

Any manual will say the VB has to be lint/dirt/dust free before install so you better have a clean prepped area and do not use blue shop towels to clean up the valve body

Last edited by BoostedAero; 04-10-2017 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 04-10-2017, 02:20 PM
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
Originally Posted by BoostedAero
Sonnax sleeves are just over sized from the factory tolerances due to the aluminum wearing down overtime... the oversized valves/sleeves remedy this issue


Valves are held in place by springs, ***If you attempt this do one plate at a time and be very careful not to mix up springs*** the shifts are all pressure sensitive

Once VB has been removed and plate is off you can just look down the veins in of the VB and use a pic tool with the tip covered in electrical tape to move the valve out of the opening exposed when you removed the plate ( be careful to not mar the smooth surface of the valve!)

Any manual will say the VB has to be lint/dirt/dust free before install so you better have a clean prepped area and do not use blue shop towels to clean up the valve body
Reading this made me sweat. I've replaced valve bodies on NAG twice now and I still struggle with the cleanliness, I'm just so giant and sweaty in the Florida heat so it's like... so annoying, I don't know how to put it (i do my work outside in the sun like a slave).

Thank you for the insight
Old 06-22-2017, 10:47 PM
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'03 E55, '00 GS300, '15 745I '13 M6 Gran Coupe
Originally Posted by MACEDON
So what's the verdict? Maxlife ok for the e55 722.6 in 2017? Their formula still good?
Do you know which type of maxlife were they talking about? Synthetic? What W as well?
Old 06-23-2017, 07:59 PM
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2004 E55
Originally Posted by driffydre
Do you know which type of maxlife were they talking about? Synthetic? What W as well?

Use Shell 134 you can get it off Amazon for about $60 for 6 quarts DO NOT USE MAX LIFE it lost its cert long ago.

Shell 134 or OEM.

I read somewhere a guy used unapproved fluid and his trans failed after a few thousand miles
Old 06-23-2017, 09:27 PM
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'03 E55, '00 GS300, '15 745I '13 M6 Gran Coupe
Originally Posted by BoostedAero
Use Shell 134 you can get it off Amazon for about $60 for 6 quarts DO NOT USE MAX LIFE it lost its cert long ago.

Shell 134 or OEM.

I read somewhere a guy used unapproved fluid and his trans failed after a few thousand miles
Much appreciated
Old 06-23-2017, 11:40 PM
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2004 E55, Triumph Speed Triple
Originally Posted by BoostedAero
Use Shell 134 you can get it off Amazon for about $60 for 6 quarts DO NOT USE MAX LIFE it lost its cert long ago.

Shell 134 or OEM.

I read somewhere a guy used unapproved fluid and his trans failed after a few thousand miles
Or get a hold of a local shell distributor. I got quoted $60 for a case of 12 bottles.
Old 02-15-2020, 04:05 PM
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E55 AMG
What transmission Mode are you on?

Originally Posted by Ken311
So like the title states, I recently have been having some transmission-related issues that hopefully some of you have experienced and fixed in your time with your E55s.

I'm at about 118,000 miles right now, and I had the 100k mile service performed about 20k miles ago which included the transmission flush/service. Slowly after that service, the transmission has been getting less and less precise and now so much so I feel that something needs to be fixed. Please keep in mind, I know the feeling of the supercharger clutch engagement and this is NOT what I am experiencing.

The issues start off from a cold start. When I begin driving the first gear change when cold is a very rough jerk during 1st to 2nd. Occasionally this jerk will happen outside of a gear change, and almost feels like slippage. I'll be accelerating and as the rpms rise in one gear, the whole car will jerk, and the rpms will fall to 1200 or so before rising back to where they were before. When accelerating to freeway speeds, all gear changes feel like there is a slight hiccup or jerk when shifting, almost like there is a delay in engaging the next gear.

The transmission also seems slow to respond to pedal movement, and on/off throttle is very sloppy. What's funny is the engine will respond immediately to input, but the car will not. When I lift off the throttle, the car will actually not begin to decelerate for a few seconds and when it does it is very abrupt and rough. When I reapply the throttle, there is another few second delay before the transmission seems to "catchup" with my input and the engine response. Sometimes when cold, I can feel a soft back&forth jerking while just coasting the car down a hill. When I put the transmission in neutral and continue coasting down the hill, the sensation goes away.

The strange thing is, these issues become less pronounced as the car warms up, but do not completely go away. Star diagnosis has revealed no fault codes, CELs, etc.

Thanks for reading and I hope some of you can shine some light on how I can go about fixing this issue.

I know it’s been 3 years, but I’m having the same problem, but only happens in confort when I change it to Standard/Sport it doesn’t happen.

Also much more likely to happen when E55 2005 it’s cold.

Welp I’m gonna try the transmission fluid change, see if it helps hope don’t have to rebuild it.
my car has 178k rn

Any comments are welcome
Old 02-18-2020, 05:50 PM
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W211 e500 (Sold), w204 c180, w203 c180, w201 190e, W219 CLS 55
If everything is working as normal. Does the transmission ever reach higher than the 80c operating temp? My question is, can you measure fluid level at the hot/80c mark once at operating temp at all times or is it only possible for s limited amount of time?

I have yet to buy a ir temp reader so after I change I drive it for about 10 min, check, fill if needed then check several times over a long drive. If the transmission would get warmer than 80 I would eventually get wrong reading on the stick?
Old 02-19-2020, 02:59 PM
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2005 C55 AMG (sold), 2005 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by Dokus
If everything is working as normal. Does the transmission ever reach higher than the 80c operating temp? My question is, can you measure fluid level at the hot/80c mark once at operating temp at all times or is it only possible for s limited amount of time?

I have yet to buy a ir temp reader so after I change I drive it for about 10 min, check, fill if needed then check several times over a long drive. If the transmission would get warmer than 80 I would eventually get wrong reading on the stick?
Pretty sure the 80C operating temp means that it'll remain at 80 degrees under normal driving (that's what operating temp means). You do the initial fill, then drive around for 15-20 min (not idling for 20 min) to get the trans up to temp and then check with the dipstick.

The 722.9 is the one where you have to check the temp at exactly 45C using Star or an IR temp gun. You only have a small window to check it as the temp will keep increasing past 45C
Old 02-20-2020, 10:31 AM
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W211 e500 (Sold), w204 c180, w203 c180, w201 190e, W219 CLS 55
That's what I thought but better safe than sorry when drawing conclusions
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