Stop drinking the cool-aid on top mount intercoolers.....
#1
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Thread Starter
Stop drinking the cool-aid on top mount intercoolers.....
For years now, we have bought into the notion that top mount intercoolers for the M113K should cost $6000+ with no proof that they would actually work. Most of us knew better, but were afraid to tackle the job. Well, I did and here it is. Yeah, it looks like dogsh*t that has been eaten and thrown up.......but it works. Actually, it works well. Cost? If someone was to build this and sell it for a large profit.........$2800. Build it yourself? $1600-1900.
Cons:
1) Looks like sh*t.
2) Room under the hood? Nope. It's tight like nat booty.
3) You lose 1.2-1.8 psi. Yeah, I said 1.2-1.8psi. Shut up, already.
4) please re-read comment #1
5) You have to remove oil cap spacer and shave the cap smooth. (J&B Weld is used for the filler.)
6) Coolant reservoir has to be moved. Professional looking relocation of the reservoir? Sure
7) You need two heat exchangers
8) You need at LEAST two intercooler pumps.
9) You need at LEAST one ice tank. Preferably one for the top mount intercoolers.
10) Open air filters are your only option. Not only that......but the intake looks horrible. Kinda like.............
11) Surge tanks? Going to have to chop them up like two fighting machete wielding drunk blokes from Brazil.
Pros:
1) It works. 15-22 degree increase in IAT'S up to 150 mph @ 83 degree outside temps. No meth/water and not iced intercooler water.
2) Did I mention the factory intercooler is intact? Yes, for the mathematically challenged......that's 3 water to air intercoolers.
3) MAP and IAT sensors are relocated in areas that are NOT in the direct air flow. Meth/Water spraying can get REALLY aggressive now. The real kicker? For some of you individuals that spray your IAT sensor with meth/water to fool the ECU can actually do it right this time. Yeah, I just called you out.
Cons:
1) Looks like sh*t.
2) Room under the hood? Nope. It's tight like nat booty.
3) You lose 1.2-1.8 psi. Yeah, I said 1.2-1.8psi. Shut up, already.
4) please re-read comment #1
5) You have to remove oil cap spacer and shave the cap smooth. (J&B Weld is used for the filler.)
6) Coolant reservoir has to be moved. Professional looking relocation of the reservoir? Sure
7) You need two heat exchangers
8) You need at LEAST two intercooler pumps.
9) You need at LEAST one ice tank. Preferably one for the top mount intercoolers.
10) Open air filters are your only option. Not only that......but the intake looks horrible. Kinda like.............
11) Surge tanks? Going to have to chop them up like two fighting machete wielding drunk blokes from Brazil.
Pros:
1) It works. 15-22 degree increase in IAT'S up to 150 mph @ 83 degree outside temps. No meth/water and not iced intercooler water.
2) Did I mention the factory intercooler is intact? Yes, for the mathematically challenged......that's 3 water to air intercoolers.
3) MAP and IAT sensors are relocated in areas that are NOT in the direct air flow. Meth/Water spraying can get REALLY aggressive now. The real kicker? For some of you individuals that spray your IAT sensor with meth/water to fool the ECU can actually do it right this time. Yeah, I just called you out.
Last edited by EREBUS; 03-01-2016 at 07:24 PM.
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builtbyfood (12-09-2020)
#4
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1990 300ce supercharged and intercooled
Well what can be seen looks like a good idea as far as keeping fab down but I do not understand your post. You say that we have all been lied to but then say they work well? Was the temp measurement 15-22 above ambient or increase above your starting point?
Also why not remove the factory core? Then you would have better air flow and see what top mounts are doing on their own. Optimally you want something more like the SLR intercoolers from an air flow and cooling perspective.
But you could take the basic idea here and expand upon it a little and have end tanks made to get rid of the elbows and even build in the intake tract through the assembly to clean up the design and tighten up the package.
Good thinking outside the box.
Also why not remove the factory core? Then you would have better air flow and see what top mounts are doing on their own. Optimally you want something more like the SLR intercoolers from an air flow and cooling perspective.
But you could take the basic idea here and expand upon it a little and have end tanks made to get rid of the elbows and even build in the intake tract through the assembly to clean up the design and tighten up the package.
Good thinking outside the box.
#5
Super Member
Thread Starter
Vendors like Evosport and Renntech(?) have built SLR Type intercoolers and charged over $6000 for them with no proof what they could do for the money. Hence, no one bought them. So here we are. Every top mount intercooler post on MBWorld has led to nowhere.
The ones I built. In this thread. In the pic in the bottom of my original post.
I'm not done yet. Bouncing ideas off you members with the help of Shardul and Anthony Lawshee can make this even better.
Last edited by EREBUS; 03-01-2016 at 01:17 PM.
#6
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PIMP!
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
Kinda working out the details with my fabricator? This guy is retired from Lockheed Martin and does welding for fun. I would like to help him out with these units. You see, we took two $200 intercoolers ($400 total) and hacked them up and replaced the cores with Bell Intercooler cores. (cores are @ $200 a piece) Strange, right? Well.....Bell Intercooler quoted over $600 a piece for them to make me custom intercoolers.(The $200 intercoolers out of the box restricted my flow @ 3 psi) This project has been months in the making. Contemplated burning the car to the ground a few times.....
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#9
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2012 Volt - 2005 E55 - 2011 G55 - 2013 GL63
So just curious.
If the making less boost then IATs should already be less, correct? Kind of hard to see the "true improvement" when it's at a lower boost level. Surely an improvement just curious apples to apples on boost.
If the making less boost then IATs should already be less, correct? Kind of hard to see the "true improvement" when it's at a lower boost level. Surely an improvement just curious apples to apples on boost.
#11
Super Member
Thread Starter
1.5 psi is not going to make a noticeable difference in IAT's when you are on it from a dig to triple digits. All 3 cores are about the same size. That's a lot of surface contact area pulling heat.
I would hit 170+ degree IAT'S from 0-150 mph with outside temps of 87 degrees (not on meth) with factory intercooler. I can't break 105 degree IATs now with extra intercoolers with outside temp @85 degrees. Not even a comparison. Then again, I'm not selling this system. Just giving you guys some ideas......that's all.
#12
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#13
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#16
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#17
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Hell, we all work hard on this stuff. lol.
The back side of both surge tanks where the intakes tubes are located were cut off and welded with a plate on each side. I placed an extra MAP sensor on the passenger side and an extra IAT sensor on the driver side. I left the original map sensor and IAT sensor in their factory locations to keep the holes closed. I can switch back and forth to test the efficiency of the set up.
I believe so. I'm sure the extra 3 1/2 feet of intercooler piping on each side could help cool the air. Maybe?
The back side of both surge tanks where the intakes tubes are located were cut off and welded with a plate on each side. I placed an extra MAP sensor on the passenger side and an extra IAT sensor on the driver side. I left the original map sensor and IAT sensor in their factory locations to keep the holes closed. I can switch back and forth to test the efficiency of the set up.
I believe so. I'm sure the extra 3 1/2 feet of intercooler piping on each side could help cool the air. Maybe?
#19
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Thread Starter
These? Son, these look bad**s. My set up is very simple in comparison.
#22
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The set up that I'm doing is so damn simple, this should of been used a lot already. I believe it's the "Kleemann" part of your comment is the issue. I can't find the amount of money they attempted to plow people with.
These? Son, these look bad**s. My set up is very simple in comparison.
These? Son, these look bad**s. My set up is very simple in comparison.
This is the way to do it imo.
Finding the optimal length and type of core is the hardest part of it.
#23
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Creative set up and looking forward to seeing you at the Texas mile.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
#24
These numbers look great, one can always change the pulley ratio to get back the lost psi anyway. Curious to see how it translates in your mile results. I'm hacking up the surge tanks with spray bars but I would have preferred a more permanent setup like yours
I would hit 170+ degree IAT'S from 0-150 mph with outside temps of 87 degrees (not on meth) with factory intercooler. I can't break 105 degree IATs now with extra intercoolers with outside temp @85 degrees. Not even a comparison. Then again, I'm not selling this system. Just giving you guys some ideas......that's all.