Vibration when breaking at over 120km/h
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Vibration when breaking at over 120km/h
Hi people. Hope you can help me with this issue.
I started to feel vibrations when I break at speeds around 120 and higher. I thought it could be the unbalanced winter wheels I had but today I changed to summer wheels and the problem is still there. It feels like it could be front left but I'm not a 100% sure.
Thanks in advance.
I started to feel vibrations when I break at speeds around 120 and higher. I thought it could be the unbalanced winter wheels I had but today I changed to summer wheels and the problem is still there. It feels like it could be front left but I'm not a 100% sure.
Thanks in advance.
#4
Thread Starter
Junior Member
#6
I have the same exact issue. I have changed wheel bearings, lower control arm, lower ball joint, and upper ball joint. I also have brand new tires as well. Only thing thus far that hasn't been changed are the rotors.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Rotors should have been the first thing you should have replaced, if you were just trying to eliminate that vibration.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
#10
Thread Starter
Junior Member
The funny thing is that previous owner changed the 4 rotors and brake pads less the a year ago and less the 2000 European miles ago. So this goes under warranty.
But now I have a other issue. They noticed that my rear left shock absorber is leaking so I need to change it. I have air suspension. They want around 3000$ claiming I need to change both rear. I started to Google and found on eBay genuine shock absorbers for around 280$ each. Sounds crazy. Here in Sweden they are charging me around 1000$ for each absorber. Could it be genuine parts they are selling on eBay?
And do I really need to change both when it's air suspension? I know that you should when it's regular ones but this one's are regulated by a compressor?
Edit: i see that the car has both air suspension and regular oil strut..
Where can I find oem strut? Should I buy oem or aftermarket once?
Last edited by phr34k; 03-30-2016 at 04:09 AM.
#11
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Alright so I got the judgement today.
1. Motormounts are done, one was even broken in half. So they need to be changed. ~1600$
2. Rotors are "warped"? They need to be changed and here is the funny part.
The rotors and brake pads were changed exactly 1 year ago by the day, both front and rear. So I claimed warrenty because they arent even 1 year old and they have only done 9000 miles. But they said NO. They claimed that they even talked with HQ in germany about this.
"The car is an AMG, you need to use the brake a certain way" is what they say.
I told them, precisely the car is an AMG you should be able to use the car and even brake with it. I have not used the car on track and if i have used it, it most certinly have had time to cool down the brakes.
Its riddculous. What do you think?
Im thinking about taking down the rotors and get them fixed and mount them again.
1. Motormounts are done, one was even broken in half. So they need to be changed. ~1600$
2. Rotors are "warped"? They need to be changed and here is the funny part.
The rotors and brake pads were changed exactly 1 year ago by the day, both front and rear. So I claimed warrenty because they arent even 1 year old and they have only done 9000 miles. But they said NO. They claimed that they even talked with HQ in germany about this.
"The car is an AMG, you need to use the brake a certain way" is what they say.
I told them, precisely the car is an AMG you should be able to use the car and even brake with it. I have not used the car on track and if i have used it, it most certinly have had time to cool down the brakes.
Its riddculous. What do you think?
Im thinking about taking down the rotors and get them fixed and mount them again.
#13
Change rotors yourself. They are really easy to do and you'll save a bunch of money.
The high speed braking is rotors or worn out suspension components. Tie Rods usually. I had a BMW where I had the vibration. Changed the rotors and the vibration still stayed. Find a new shop. The dealer overcharges like crazy.
Where are you located? My uncle owns a shop near Malmo if you are interested.
Also if the rotors are new. They shouldn't be warped. You should find a privately owned shop and get the suspension inspected to see what's wrong. But be aware most shops will say everything that's not broken are broken. So be careful of picking the right place.
The high speed braking is rotors or worn out suspension components. Tie Rods usually. I had a BMW where I had the vibration. Changed the rotors and the vibration still stayed. Find a new shop. The dealer overcharges like crazy.
Where are you located? My uncle owns a shop near Malmo if you are interested.
Also if the rotors are new. They shouldn't be warped. You should find a privately owned shop and get the suspension inspected to see what's wrong. But be aware most shops will say everything that's not broken are broken. So be careful of picking the right place.
Last edited by Eldorado Sean; 04-12-2016 at 12:47 PM.
#14
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Updates, please help
I would like to update this thread because I have fixed the car.
I took the car to a smaller MB workshop and instead of paying 7000$ for changing front rotors, engine mounts and rear struts I ended up paying 4000$ and that included replacing the middle dpf for a richer engine sound 😀
We didn't change the rotors because the big MB shop measured the rotors and they were fine but they wanted to change them anyway so I decided to lather them (I don't know if it's the English word).
The guys that did the lathering said that the drilled holes were full with ****, like brake dust, rust and what not. They thought that this was probably the reason for the vibrations. So they latherd them anyway and cleaned them up!
They did magic because the vibrations were gone, until yesterday.
I drove from Stockholm to Alicante (Spain) and when I got to Germany I pushed the car up too 250 and short after I had to brake and bang there I got some vibrations. I thought maybe it's just at that speed. But then I started to feel it at lower speeds also like at 140 and such.
Today it's almost as bad as before the lathering. 😩
Damn, what am I doing wrong? I have not pushed the car hard. I have maybe done 500km after the workshop and it's been pretty calm driving.
Could it be that they are full with **** again? I have been driving thru about 8 hours of rain yesterday and maybe they are all dirty again? I don't know.
Any suggestions?
I took the car to a smaller MB workshop and instead of paying 7000$ for changing front rotors, engine mounts and rear struts I ended up paying 4000$ and that included replacing the middle dpf for a richer engine sound 😀
We didn't change the rotors because the big MB shop measured the rotors and they were fine but they wanted to change them anyway so I decided to lather them (I don't know if it's the English word).
The guys that did the lathering said that the drilled holes were full with ****, like brake dust, rust and what not. They thought that this was probably the reason for the vibrations. So they latherd them anyway and cleaned them up!
They did magic because the vibrations were gone, until yesterday.
I drove from Stockholm to Alicante (Spain) and when I got to Germany I pushed the car up too 250 and short after I had to brake and bang there I got some vibrations. I thought maybe it's just at that speed. But then I started to feel it at lower speeds also like at 140 and such.
Today it's almost as bad as before the lathering. 😩
Damn, what am I doing wrong? I have not pushed the car hard. I have maybe done 500km after the workshop and it's been pretty calm driving.
Could it be that they are full with **** again? I have been driving thru about 8 hours of rain yesterday and maybe they are all dirty again? I don't know.
Any suggestions?
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Some rotors warp, others don't, nothing you can do but replace them. If you turn them on a lathe they will warp again. Dust in the holes makes very little difference. A little more heat if you're pushing it hard. Most rotors don't even have them.
Shop around online for new rotors, some places charge a lot more than others.
Shop around online for new rotors, some places charge a lot more than others.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; 07-03-2016 at 03:57 PM.
#16
Thread Starter
Junior Member
They are the year old and mb doesn't want to take it under warranty, what if I pay 3000$ and this happens again? They have changed rotors twice on this car when it only had done 80000km
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
Jack up the front and spin the tires slowly, If you feel the brakes rubbing in one spot, it's warped and gets much worse when hot. Warm them up first, if it feels perfect, start looking at tires and suspension. Get an old front end guy to drive it.
#18
You don't turn (lathe) these rotors. If they are warped they are warped and turning them in a lathe is only as you found out a very temporary solution. Replace the pads and rotors.
#19
Thread Starter
Junior Member
So what if I change the rotors and this happens again after less then a year and only 10000km? Should I have to pay 3000$ every year?
Is there a better aftermarket option to buy that has better material?
I have not driven the car on a racetrack and Mercedes told me it was because I haven't taken care of the breakes like I should. That it's an AMG and not a normal car, I told the guy that that's right it's AMG with huge brakes and should be able to handle some normal driving.
So any ideas?
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
A lot of guys like Girodisc. There's Racing Brake. On the CLS forum one guy had new friction discs custom made by a company called Colman for about $600.
#21
Super Member
OK.
So what if I change the rotors and this happens again after less then a year and only 10000km? Should I have to pay 3000$ every year?
Is there a better aftermarket option to buy that has better material?
I have not driven the car on a racetrack and Mercedes told me it was because I haven't taken care of the breakes like I should. That it's an AMG and not a normal car, I told the guy that that's right it's AMG with huge brakes and should be able to handle some normal driving.
So any ideas?
So what if I change the rotors and this happens again after less then a year and only 10000km? Should I have to pay 3000$ every year?
Is there a better aftermarket option to buy that has better material?
I have not driven the car on a racetrack and Mercedes told me it was because I haven't taken care of the breakes like I should. That it's an AMG and not a normal car, I told the guy that that's right it's AMG with huge brakes and should be able to handle some normal driving.
So any ideas?
#22
Thread Starter
Junior Member
I'm positive that's it's the rotors, because otherwise the vibrations wouldn't have disappeared after the lathering. But I'm not sure about what made it come back.
#23
Super Member
It would if the brakes were the problem the first time and not now.
Humor me for a bit to rule it out. Drive around the block with the radio off and the windows down. Something with a few bumps preferred. Listen for squeaking, clicking, thumping, etc both while driving and during breaking.
Humor me for a bit to rule it out. Drive around the block with the radio off and the windows down. Something with a few bumps preferred. Listen for squeaking, clicking, thumping, etc both while driving and during breaking.
#24
Super Member
Otherwise, if it is the brakes that are shuddering, below is an interesting read from stoptech discussing teh issue you are describing.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
#25
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Otherwise, if it is the brakes that are shuddering, below is an interesting read from stoptech discussing teh issue you are describing.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
I will also try what you said in the previous post.
I will post back