Just replaced my Top speed LT headers for EC Mid length Headers b'cos it leaks a lot. Kept the 400 cels Mid pipe cat. Went to the track and ran the car, and could not get my 60' down below 2.0. Top end speed is great. Trapping between 28-30mph on the 2nd half of the 1/8 mile. Question is, What could cause the sudden loss of my 60'. Normally, I get between 1.7-1.9 60'. Seems I lost low end torque.

 

Did you get the car tuned for the change? If not, it may take a few hundred miles to adjust for the new restriction/flow.

 

A lot of people run faster than that stock. I'd say maybe you are also making a change to your driving style.

 

Really shouldn't have made much of a difference. May have been one of those days at the track.

 

Check engine light came up today. Pulling P0432 and P0422 codes. Will getting rid of the cats fix this codes, or deleting the secondary o2 sensors?

 

Help needed. Driving back home, my car went dead on me. Won't start. Pulled code p0335. Try to restart the car, but no success. Does this have anything to do with the sensor? If so, how do you replace it?

 

A quick google shows that code is related to CPS. Does it start when cold?

 

Never had a problem starting the car until now.

 

CPS will show no symptoms until it does. It either works or it does not work. When the car heats up the sensor will loose connectivity and the car can't figure out where the crank shaft is and can't adjust properly so it shuts the engine off immediately. It should be able to crank once it cools down but will shut back off when it heats up again. It's a common problem and pretty easy to fix

 

Thanks. So do need to replace the sensor?

 

Yes you do. Here is a great DIY article. I purchased mine from Amazon. It was 1/4th of the cost of the OEM.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-diy-pics.html

 

Surely, the car started just fine again, but I'm getting it replaced right at this hour. Part only cost $64. Thanks.

 

Any difference between the LT's & the EC ML's?

 

My findings might not be ,too accurate due to the fact that, the LT headers had a leak. Main reason of making a switch. The car feels much responsive and faster now with the EC ML, compared to the time I had the leaky LT.

 

Got the car back and everything looks good, so far. Ended up returning the $64 part, and getting an updated version from the dealer for $184. That was even cheaper from where I got the $64 sensor. They were asking for $204 to get that same part #. All codes are gone for now.

 

What's this new updated part # and what's the other one? Thanks.

 

The older part # ends in 2728, and the updated version ends in 2828. All other part #'s are the same. Just the last four digits have changed.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CO...hiL&ref=plSrch