okay i got you now. Have you seen the other thread on here of a dude using an adapter to use the cars fiber optic wiring into RCA's for a new amp without rewiring the car?

lol trying to avoid this monstrous task...

 

yeah...honestly if you're upgrading anything in the factory sound system, the weakest link performance wise would be the factory amplifier. the factory head unit outputs a digital signal meaning it should be pure and unmodified, so question of sound quality there are kaput. whenever i get round to upgrading the system on my car i'll proceed to do a full write up here.

having the ability to individually time adjust each speaker, and do individual EQ settings per speaker is just simply audio tuning at its highest level.

 

Yeah and my head unit outputs analog converted into digital via MOST adapter.. but the factory amp does suck.

So. BTW how many channels do we have? 7 or 8channels?

 

logic7 denotes 7.1 so 8...but we have more than 8 speakers which include the sub. its been a while but i think we have 11 speakers? some are linked or something like that. next to the rear deck sub there are 2 speakers. haven't really dug into it as i'm not yet ready to upgrade my audio.

EDIT:

 

As hachiroku says above, eight channels. Seven full range channels and one sub channel, hence (Logic) 7.1. This really started out with Lexicon in home a/v surround, which HK bought up some time ago allowing them to use the algorithm and name. Basically it is a 5.1 system with two extra effects channels. Each channel gets its own signal, including the .1 sub, allowing for different sounds to be output over each channel. Think movie theater as a plane flies overhead and out of sight behind you and the sound follows it. On music, the producer/sound mixer can put a guitar, for example, in the right front channel only and put the voice dead center in the center channel, while the bass guitar is mainly mixed in the left channel, giving the impression of a soundstage. Those three speakers are typically situated in front of you to create that soundstage with instruments spread out over the width of that stage. Then, typically, the rear four channels are used for venue sound effects (read echo, typically why they call it hall, cathedral, etc) and the .1 is for LFE (low frequency effect) or sub channel. This is a very basic explanation, of course, and most may already know all of this.


The point of that explanation is to explain a little why cars have so many speakers with only 7 channels (plus sub). On our cars, the center channel is one full range speaker only. One speaker, one channel. The front and rear doors gets one channel each (for four channels) and each of those four channels gets two speakers (midwoofer and tweeter, as opposed to one full range speaker). So, one channel, two speakers. One channel means one speaker lead (theoretically) that goes to a crossover sending that one channel's signal to the two specialized speakers (midwoofer and tweeter) for output in each speakers optimal frequency range.


Also in our cars, I believe the rear two channels (speakers) that are mounted flanking the sub in the back shelf are pretty much the same as the center channel, meaning one full range speaker. Again, one channel, one speaker, and in a setup with the Logic 7 mode on, outputting typically surround effects. When playing just in just stereo mode, the processor will send a full range signal to those speakers (usually at a reduced volume level from the other front channels), unless they are programmed to be off in that instance. The sub, as the .1 LFE channel, can also be, for example, two or three subs working out of one channel, as long as the amplifier driving them can handle the load.


This post is directed at no one in particular and is for informational purposes only if anyone is scratching their heads on number of speakers vs. number of channels. If this is so elementary that everyone knows it already, apologies for the post.

 

Looks like this guy here bypassed the stock amp with a LC8i and a 5 channel amp and powered the oem speakers and added an aftermarket sub.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-upgrades.html

Again not on the same level as you guys, but I would assume it still would sound better than the stock setup.

 

Someone else that had done the same said that the stock speakers were pretty decent and just needed a bit more power to wake them up. Looking at them after taking them out for replacement, they do look pretty decent. I assume that with this particular install, since the rear surround speakers flanking the sub (and stock sub) were cut out, and seeing as the amp has only four full range channels of amplification, that the center channel was disconnected. If so, you will no longer have the Logic 7 function. No center, no rear surrounds, no Logic 7 mode.


I will say that the guy was right about the sub section. The cabin is indeed sealed very well and just adding a 10" Hertz sub with 400 watts to it (as in my original install before upgrading) was woefully deficient without being ported into the cabin. I ultimately decided to leave the stock sub in place along with the two stock full range speakers surrounding it on the parcel shelf so as to be able to fully return to stock without any further customization. I now have two 10's sealed in the trunk with about 1k watts to them. It works well and bangs pretty hard. The best way would be to port it into the cabin, but I wanted to cut into as minimal amount of stuff as possible.

 

LOL Did you ever try this setup?

 

has anybody done a factory amp upgrade by Phantom Auto Sound? he replaces a bunch of components inside the factory amp with higher quality and higher rated components. I think I would like to go that route some day.

just don't know how much his service costs and what improvements sound wise come from them. I asked both of these questions and his only response to me on Instagram was he was familiar with the amp and has done many of them.

 

Hey Guys!
I almost done with my Rear Suspension Build for my 2007 E63 and am prepping to install a couple Gladen Amps along with an Audison Bit Nove. My ride does have the Rear Hood Automatic Release system, so from a standover position, it looks like it may be a bi_ _ _ to disconnect the wiring harness from the Audio Gateway in order to tap into them to feed high line to the Audison SPM-1>Bit-Nove>AMPS. If I find that the front is NOT 3 way, then I would NOT need the SPM-1 to receive the separate TW & MR Signals that it would otherwise mix into 2 channels leaving the remaining four for the FT SW, Rear Full Range, the Center Channel as well as the Rear Subwoofer. Again, as I've asked elsewhere, I think possibly that I have front 3 way as I can visibly see what look to be speaker grill holes in the carpet liner of the footwells up front??? 12/4/20-I got on EPC last night and saw in the "Electronics" Section, that I do, in fact, have a 3 way up front after all!! So, since I have the HK7 system, then I'll be running 16 AWG Speaker wire down each side disco'ing each speaker from the OEM harness/Crossovers, that is, if there is any crossover? More likely there will be just a couple capacitors to cut/split the signal. Just have to figure if I'll leave the mids where they are in the footwalls. I'll probably start off with them in there and adjust for sound with the Audison, but there's a good possibility I'll move them to pods R&L on the dash A-Pillars!!!

I've been toying with the notion of intercepting the MOST connection with one of those 3 -way MOST (female-male-male-https://www.ebay.com/itm/231595922119?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711117 182372900&mkcid=2&itemid=231595922119&targetid=106 8833129939&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1015139&p oi=&campaignid=11615951275&mkgroupid=116843212927& rlsatarget=pla-1068833129939&abcId=9300457&merchantid=110790982&g clid=Cj0KCQiA9P__BRC0ARIsAEZ6irgx7zdWFWQXos-t7GnOvpe3SWDNUid-ooxyMLV14zXG1t1XeOch7nkaAgy5EALw_wcB) harnesses on EBay in order to feed into a Bit DMI, MoBridge DA1 or NAV TV to thus negate the need to tap into each of 6 wires plus the benefit of getting a clean unobstructed signal from the MOST Bus, but as yet have not heard of anyone attempting it. My fear is if I were to do that, I'm not sure if the MOST Connection has a separate return signal that must accompany it?? If say, I attached the 3-way MOST adaptor male>female and then connected first in line male from the adaptor into the Audio Gateway with the 2nd in-line male MOST connected to the Bit DMI with the signal continuing back to the first at the Audio Gateway, would that retain the MOST Signal and not cause a shut down and still allow the Audio Gateway to operate normally by sending signal to those speakers still connected to the harness(Rear Surround and Center Channel while maintaining control of the Steering Wheel buttons and Dash Command )? In this case, I would splice into the Door and Subwoofer speaker wires from the AGW in the rear and connect them directly to the AMPS with 2 extra speaker wires that will connect to the midrange pods to be attached to the A Pillar as well as 2 more for the Tweeters leaving the OEM line connected to the front woofer "Hub"??

I'm also thinking of using some 1/8" sheet Aluminum or Steel custom bent to be used as bracket connected to the Rear Bumper Bolts angled in such a way a to mount both amps alongside the spare tire!! Any advise on any of the above would be greatly appreciated!!