HeissRod

Took my son to boy scouts tonight and, halfway through the 5 mile drive, the transmission started slipping. If it got above ~2k rpms, it would go neutral. Pulled into the parking lot, put it in park and listened as I gave it some throttle. Heard a noise that sounded like a mix between a straight-cut gear whine and a mechanical bee buzzing. After about 30-60 seconds, the sound went away, so I turned the car off and went inside.

1½ hours later, we drive home. Partial-half throttle revealed no issues and I got up to 60mph with no slippage. Drove with the window down as I drove through the neighborhood and thought I heard a whine louder than normal, but wasn't sure. There is a section of neighborhood before my street which is empty and usually devoid of any activity. When I reached this section, I manually downshifted to 2nd and gave it 50-70% throttle. Car immediately slipped, the loud whine returned, and now I have a CEL. I gingerly drove it the rest of the way home, backed it into the garage, put it back in drive to roll forward a bit and now it won't move; eternal neutral. Checked the codes with my basic OBD2 scanner and pulled P0715 & P0730.

To answer the questions in advance, my trans fluid was changed by MPower/EuroPower about 1-2 years ago, there are no apparent fluid leaks, and there have been no sloppy or out-of-whack shifts before today.

What are your thoughts? Conductor plate? Trans plug adapter leaking into wiring? Torque converter shot? Trans shot? Burn the car?

equitiesguy

Plug it into STAR and read real codes, including the transmission. Buy a 722 dipstick tool from amazon and verify you aren't low on fluid.

Hulk

What's the mileage on the trans ?

novae500

at this point replace the conductor plate and/or tranny oil pump. Had similar symptoms to you and after this, car was up and running with no problems.

dchl21

tcu ?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Drop the pan and look at the condition of the fluid.

HeissRod

I already have one. This will be the first step. Didn't feel like messing with it last night.

~78k

I'm hoping this is the issue and not something larger

This is my plan

Hulk

Drop the pan check the fluid and also take out the filter and tap on it to see if there's pieces in there. If its good there's a good chance it's the conductor plate . If you change that change the 13 pin connector while there too

rapidoxidation

If you decide to burn the car, please take and post a video and don't forget to use plenty of accelerant...

CharlyE500

I had similar problem when I push to 5K to 6K rpm. 2 weeks ago went to check the tranny fluid and it was low. After fill up, my tranny is fine again. Check the tranny fluid. From my understanding when you measure the fluid, the engine has to be running. Hope you find the problem without rebuilt tranny.

Elhonaz

Engine needs to be running and the fluid can only be mesured correctly when trans fluid is 80celsius. To check the temperature use star or other device that can read trans fluid temperature and when looking at the temp make sure tranny is in D or R. When in park or neutral it reads engine temperature. when measuring with stick put back to park. so for temperature have the tranny in D or R and when measuring have it on P

HeissRod

I knew it had to be running at operating temp to check the fluid. Any idea how long it would take to reach that while idling in the garage?

Elhonaz

Cant say anything for sure... but it sure takes longer than youd expect

HeissRod

I'm guesstimating 30 minutes to an hour

Dublinoh

If you have a dipstick to check the transmission fluid you might consider a dipstick heater, cost around $20. They are usually used to heat oil in cold climates for easier starting....of course I have never actually done what I am suggesting so use your own good judgement. Seems like the transmission would heat very slowly if just idling, anyway good luck and I hope it is a minor fix.

O-55

I can lend you an infrared thermometer.

lukasxpl

that's about right it take alot longer to warm up then engine temp


but when you start your car cold and check level you should have something on you dipstick at between 20 Celsius if it does not show anything you are LOW!


also before you do anything figure out what code you have in your trans module then go from there!

XSTAR

Stock TCU? Outside of what the manual suggests what is the consensus on changing fluid (mileage and/or years). Hope you get it figured out and an easy remidy!

HeissRod

Yes

dchl21

a friend's tranny was going into neutral and found out later his tcu was bad. probally not your case but just a thought ... plug in a good one from a friend quick times and go for a drive.


good luck with it bro

HeissRod

Let the car idle for 45+ minutes. Fluid level is good. Now to find a STAR system to borrow and check codes.

HeissRod

Pulled codes P2500 & P220A from the trans module. Engine module has P2066 & P2069.

I'll pull the pan tomorrow night and check for shavings.

Pending no shavings, are we looking at a conductor plate and/or transmission pump?

HeissRod

Anyone have the torque specs and sequence for the valve body?

Papieye

Have a look thru this manual, it should have everything you need to know

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/..._ATSG_2004.pdf

HeissRod

Thank you. There is some pretty good information in there concerning the valve body, but I don't see reinstall information.

Should it also matter than this guide only seems to cover vehicles thru 2001?