08 E63 Front end clunk on hard acceleration
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
08 E63 Front end clunk on hard acceleration
I searched around a bit on the forum but didn't find much specific to my model with the same issue. Recently purchased a 2008 E63 with 94k on it...car is super clean, unfortunately on the test drive the noise did not come about. When I let off the gas after heavy acceleration there is a solid thud/clunk sound...just once. From what I found on the forums here it seems to be the motor mounts. Just looking for a little input as I need to drive the car from Portland to NorCal where it will live....There is no sound under normal acceleration, only when the pedal is to the floor pretty much and then let off. I'm on a time table and am not able to have it looked at before the trip...any and all input is greatly appreciated.
#2
Junior Member
Just don't drive it aggressively and you'll be fine. The engine mounts have anchor bolts within the mount itself so it will not raise more than and inch or so. The real issue would be puncturing the upper radiator hose from the engine lifting up. Drive it calmly and you're good to go. Have a safe trip!
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Blade12r (11-27-2016)
#3
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From: Richmond, CA
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
Both of my motor mounts were collapsed and recently replaced. I didn't have any weird noises or clunks because of them and it's seen plenty of full throttle pulls at varying speeds. You could just feel a bit more vibration in the car, especially at idle.
I think you have something else going on. When you check under the car, do you have any orange stains in that area? One of mine leaked out, the other was collapsed but didn't show any signs of leaking.
Motor mounts are also a bit labor intensive. The whole exhaust system needs to come out to do them. My roommate (works at an indy shop) did mine in about an hour and a half, I'd expect double that time in labor from a dealer.
This should not have to be done to swap motor mounts. Lame.
I think you have something else going on. When you check under the car, do you have any orange stains in that area? One of mine leaked out, the other was collapsed but didn't show any signs of leaking.
Motor mounts are also a bit labor intensive. The whole exhaust system needs to come out to do them. My roommate (works at an indy shop) did mine in about an hour and a half, I'd expect double that time in labor from a dealer.
This should not have to be done to swap motor mounts. Lame.
Last edited by Strigoi; 11-27-2016 at 04:06 AM.
#4
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Just don't drive it aggressively and you'll be fine. The engine mounts have anchor bolts within the mount itself so it will not raise more than and inch or so. The real issue would be puncturing the upper radiator hose from the engine lifting up. Drive it calmly and you're good to go. Have a safe trip!
#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Both of my motor mounts were collapsed and recently replaced. I didn't have any weird noises or clunks because of them and it's seen plenty of full throttle pulls at varying speeds. You could just feel a bit more vibration in the car, especially at idle.
I think you have something else going on. When you check under the car, do you have any orange stains in that area? One of mine leaked out, the other was collapsed but didn't show any signs of leaking.
Motor mounts are also a bit labor intensive. The whole exhaust system needs to come out to do them. My roommate (works at an indy shop) did mine in about an hour and a half, I'd expect double that time in labor from a dealer.
This should not have to be done to swap motor mounts. Lame.
I think you have something else going on. When you check under the car, do you have any orange stains in that area? One of mine leaked out, the other was collapsed but didn't show any signs of leaking.
Motor mounts are also a bit labor intensive. The whole exhaust system needs to come out to do them. My roommate (works at an indy shop) did mine in about an hour and a half, I'd expect double that time in labor from a dealer.
This should not have to be done to swap motor mounts. Lame.
After finding this clunk, and being more aware....there does seem to be more than usual vibration at idle, as well as on deceleration sometimes.
Are there any options for stronger motor mounts? Aftermarket? Or are the OEM the best/only option?
I was expecting that the labor would be anywhere between 2-5hrs even at the Indy....
Last edited by Blade12r; 11-27-2016 at 11:28 AM.
#6
Junior Member
Pop the hood and power brake it to see if the engine lifts up which is a sure sign of a broken drivers side engine mount. The passenger side mount only breaks if the drivers side was broken for a long time so there is a good chance the passenger side is fine. I would replace both anyway but breaking the passenger side is relatively uncommon. No aftermarket polyurethane so go with OEM.
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Blade12r (11-27-2016)
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Pop the hood and power brake it to see if the engine lifts up which is a sure sign of a broken drivers side engine mount. The passenger side mount only breaks if the drivers side was broken for a long time so there is a good chance the passenger side is fine. I would replace both anyway but breaking the passenger side is relatively uncommon. No aftermarket polyurethane so go with OEM.
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#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Pop the hood and power brake it to see if the engine lifts up which is a sure sign of a broken drivers side engine mount. The passenger side mount only breaks if the drivers side was broken for a long time so there is a good chance the passenger side is fine. I would replace both anyway but breaking the passenger side is relatively uncommon. No aftermarket polyurethane so go with OEM.
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M3diesel (11-27-2016)
#9
Senior Member
Same issue with 62K miles
I just diagnosed the same issue. Same symptoms (rough idle especially cold, cabin vibration, clunk on burst rev/acceleration). A local MB tech did the same test power brake engine visibly tried to jump out of the car on the driver's side. Quoted $530 parts + $1,007.18 labor. I can source genuine parts online $281, and wonder about DIY labor. Is it practical to undertake this job on jack stands/engine brace? Has anyone done it here? Written instructions, made a video?