I have a power steering leak at the inner tie rod boot and based on research, I'll need to replace the rack.

What I'd like to know is if anyone has experience with any of the brands offered on sites like Pelican, Parts Geek, Parts.com etc? Planning to order but debating between TRW, Maven, and refurbished units on Buy Auto Parts. Thanks in advance.

2004 W211 E55

 

I have to replace my 2004 steering rack as well as it has a drip that is pissing me off. I plan on going OEM low milage used unit from a 2006 CLS as I have heard it has a better ratio and will drastically improve the turn in feeling...My 2004 feels like a big yacht compared to my dad's 2006 designo e55 (which also has the improved ratio)

Research a little on CLS conversion and you will yeild that same result...Upgrade and do the new supports/mounts while you are in there.

NON-OEM = Do it again from my experience

 

I read about the CLS updated rack but I'm opting out due to the ESP issue. Not sure if there is a solution for it but I'm looking for a sure fix at the moment.

"The only thing he warned me about was that this steering rack could slightly throw off/confuse the map on the "ESP Speed Sensitive Power Steering Control Unit." This could only be a problem on the tightest roads when suddenly/abruptly applying full power." - see here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ion-parts.html

Also what are the upgraded mounts, are those just the bushings?

For reference, another member noted they used the Mavel remanufactured unit. Installed 3 of them and none of them worked so yes... stick with OEM.

 

That thread is the one thread that I read that pushed me that direction to try the CLS rack....hmmmm I am still willing to chance the tight road ESPfor having nice day to day turn in... That's just me though... I found a few on fleabay for around $185-285 that I would may take a poke at eventually

 

I hear ya, post up details if you go that route I'd be interested to see how it goes. Always nice to upgrade when replacing.

I'm heading down the path if a used unit. Will post an update in about 2 weeks when I do it.

 

Mounts = new bushings for the rack so yea just factory new not an upgrade or anything... buy hey new is an upgrade at 100k miles if you ask me

I will def post about it and any failures that I have... that upgraded steering thread is ancient and perhaps ground has been made on the using of newer racks

 

Sounds good, not a whole lot of discussion on the topic as it is. Thanks for the tip, going to add the bushings to the cart.

To be continued...

 

After waiting for a used rack to arrive and then the arrangement falling through, I purchased a remanufactured OEM unit from Northside Imports, the brand being Precision.








All in all the installation was pretty straight forward. It was moderate depending on your legel of skill but really not that bad at all. You should have someone to help you drop the rack. It's light (22 lbs) but it just makes it that much easier when your cooercing the rack down amid electrical connections and power steering lines.

Once you have the car on jackstands and have removed the plastic splash shields, undo the nuts kn top of the outer tied rod end ball joints. Use a ball joint separator to pop the joints loose amd remove.

Next, unbolt the steering column linkage at the top. It's a 13mm bolt (IIRC) and you can find it by following the steering column upwards near the firewall, just above the primary cat on the driver side.




From there, there are 4 bolts that bolt the support frame to the subframe; the steering rack mounts through the forst two.

As soon as these 4 bolts are removed, your rack is ready to come down. Wiggle it down and from there you will need to disconnect the Speed Sensitive Parametric Steering valve/solenoid (squeeze clips on both sodes and it slides roght out) and the two power steering lines that go into the steering rack near the column. There is one nut that holds the flange down, once you remove that, the lower one will come out. The upper one is not bolted in, it just slides out with some pulling.

Now hag you have unbolted the outer ie rod ends, steering column linkage, 2power steering lines, and unclipped the SPS solenoid, the rack is free for removal. Drop it down and watch to make sire nothing snags.
For installation, reverse these atepa. My biggest tips are to reusue the black cap at the rnd of the steering rack where it connects to the linkage. It's a small circular cap that does not come with the new unit. Its $48 from the dealer and is special order. The old one is.not held in there by anything. Just go very slowly and wiggle it all the way off the aplines. Take time doing this this because of you break it, you'll be set back.

Also, you will need to swap out the SpS sensor from your old unit. There are two green o-rings; make sure to o replace them. The reman unit I got came with f4 o rings for the sps and 2 for the power steering lines. They are not the same as regular o rings and must be rated for hydraulic power steering fluid (HRNB). Search green o rings online and you should order a kit.

Finally the best tip, coint the splines om the old and new rack and make sure you place the column linkage at the exact same place. If you don't, you're steering wheel is going to be crooked. You can adjust to a certain degree but it's vitathe rack and linkage are centered or else you'll have to drop the tack again.

Pictures below, the pelican parts DIY O followed but note the steering coupler/liage is different on the e55 but it's the best reference I found for general guidance.
If anyone has questions, happy to help to the best of my knowledge. Not the hardest job in the world and it's fun to tackle. Make sure to refill and bleed the power steering system when you're done. There's some other small details that you should pick up on intuitively but ask away if you have wuestions.

 

Pelican parts DIY: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W211/115-SUSPEN-Power_Steering_Rack_Replacement/115-SUSPEN-Power_Steering_Rack_Replacement.htm

More pictures for reference.

 

I have to do the same project on my car, I opted for a low mileage used rack. Mine didn't leak but it's got something funky going on internally.. it looks like a pretty straightforward jobs but thanks for the photos anyway.

 

no problem. Just make sure you have everything you need when you do it. Solenoid and green o rings. Did the control arms at the same time and that way actually harder to do than the rack.

 

Great write up been looking for this I'll be attempting this on a RHD E55 in the next few days.

 

Right on, glad it was helpful. It’s much easier than you might expect.