Amazon

Amazon

Amazon

Amazon

You might try F1 Fabrication's Upper Control Arms which allow you to adjust up to an inch or so on thier upper ball joints which screw outwards via a threaded Heim joint! I bought mine back in December, 2017 but alas I have not driven it nor have had it aligned since redoing the whole front suspension because after also replacing the Headbolts and getting the Heads rebuilt as well as replacing the P/S Pump and HP Pressure Line, adding 2 new Coil Packs and rebuilt Intake, I must have messed up my Cam Timing because upon starting her up, it sounded terrible for about 30-40 seconds before I shut her down!! The STAR Diagnostic indicated misfires on all but 2 cylinders. I chalked this up to perhaps meaning either there was a lack of fuel due it's being offline for 8+months, but after trying to start next day, there was no turnover at all!! So after breaking out my torque wrench and manually trying to turn clockwise that crankshaft, it was clear it was not going to turn. I was however able to turn it counterclockwise for several mini turns (note-I had the fan back on with all hoses connected, so only very small turn were possible) but as soon as I turned it clockwise again to the point I was expecting to get hung up, it in fact got hung up, I gave it just a little more force, but rather than pushing it, I decided it best to let it sit until I had time to take her apart again, first looking at the timing and/or scoping each cylinder to see if there are any dings on the pistons or evident bending of valves etc. The fact that it did run, to me indicates that the valves at first were in the safe zone in relation to their respective Cams. This was seemingly verified too via STAR as the positioning of L&R Intake and Exhaust Cams were identicle on each side!! That I suddenly shut it down seemingly right at the spot it would not turn, I'm hopeful that it may have been my torque on the Cam Bolts were less than appropriate (45nm+90 as compared to 115Nm?) and there's a chance that I stopped it just in time to avoid anything catastrophic to the Valves, but that hope may be far fetched????

10/31/21- I thought I’d just let everyone know that after having had my Fuel Injectors tested prior to reinstall, turns out one of them flooded piston bay # 3&4 (driver side closest to firewall) causing a dreaded hydro lock! Fortunately, I must have turned it off just in time because when I removed all the Spark Plugs and tried to manually turn it over, as I did so, I saw that fuel squirted out the Spark plug hole! I wirelessly scoped the bore and saw a 3/4 full for one bay and around 1/2 full for the bore closest to the wall! So I sucked out all the fuel from there! I proceeded to manually turn it over 2 full revolutions and it felt normal, thank goodness! I then boroscoped the newly rebuilt Intake Manifold and bent a clothes hanger, wrapped it with blue shop towel secured with duct tape and along with the boroscope managed to soak up any fuel that was left and then let a fan run over it overnight in an effort to evaporate any fuel that was left. When I installed the new injectors, I could readily identify the culprit injector as it clearly was leaking when I pulled the Fuel Rail! I must shamefully admit that I was somewhat terrified of screwing things up upon rebuild, so I got her towed to the Dealership and even though I showed a picture of my having the timing set for all 4 Cams at the same time (ie-2 timing kits) along with a newspaper dating the day, so as to confirm it being done right at such an hour time, nevertheless they had to take it apart to confirm it themselves! Although they commended me on my work somewhat, The inside “pearl of wisdom” the mechanic told me was, that since the car was sitting offline without fluids for 8-9 months, the best way to get the Oil moving is to manually start then stop 25-30 times (ie-turn over the engine without starting) to prime the Oil through the Heads before firing it up! To do this you must have an assistant, or perhaps a wireless borescope, standing over the Driver Side valve cover with the Oil Cap removed to see when Oil starts to flow over the Valve Tappets before starting it up! So now she runs as good as I had envisioned it would! Incredible though that the hydro lock didn’t do more damage, but it may have if the car was in gear, right? As for the F1 Fabrications Adjustable Arms, they allow you to dial in any pull that may be left after installing a “repair” (ie-Crash) Bolt!

I found it best in the end however, to set up each sides Upper Control Arms to be as close as possible (ie-within 0.2 degrees or each other) with all of the correction for the pull to the left being done with those “eccentric Crash Bolts” as well as using the UPD Rear Toe Arms to dial in the rears. I too used bbirdwells method of using threaded line setup on Jack stands all around measured from the Center Caps to determine each wheels alignment using calipers to measure the distance away from the line from the front and rear of the rims. After 3 failed attempts at various “Wheel Alignment Specialists, it was as refreshing as a smack in the face to realize after all the setup and micro measuring that is required that such alignment can be done DIY!