4000lb Sideways
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Can you tell me more? Would love to see your setup.
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,790
Likes: 109
From: DownEast Maine
CLS 55 AMG E500 ML320
I took a picture of the jig with my ipad. I'll show it to you if you explain how to get it on here. I haven't had a lot of success posting pictures. It's about time I learned.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 949
Likes: 47
From: San Diego
2004 E55
Originally Posted by StarvingArtist
I took a picture of the jig with my ipad. I'll show it to you if you explain how to get it on here. I haven't had a lot of success posting pictures. It's about time I learned.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,790
Likes: 109
From: DownEast Maine
CLS 55 AMG E500 ML320
Just toe. I use a level for camber, and a long straight edge to make sure everything is equal to the car. I've got no way to measure caster. I just pick an angle according to how much centering I want and match up the other side with the adjusters. Takes a while because you can't measure and adjust at the same time, but it's faster than driving into town to have it done.
In my first two years of ownership I went through five sets of tires at $1200-1400 a set. I kept replacing suspension parts and paying for alignments and I was still chewing the inside edges off. Turns out the only thing the shop could adjust was toe. Crash bols were maxed out because it's lowered a bit. Finally I took matters into my own hands and bought k-mac bushings for the thrust arms, slotted the subframe mounting points for the control arms, and figured out how to align it. Now I get about 30k out of the rear tires, and just get sick of the fronts.
In my first two years of ownership I went through five sets of tires at $1200-1400 a set. I kept replacing suspension parts and paying for alignments and I was still chewing the inside edges off. Turns out the only thing the shop could adjust was toe. Crash bols were maxed out because it's lowered a bit. Finally I took matters into my own hands and bought k-mac bushings for the thrust arms, slotted the subframe mounting points for the control arms, and figured out how to align it. Now I get about 30k out of the rear tires, and just get sick of the fronts.
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Guys, girls, I'm quite excited for the next project, I think you will like it as well.
Just completed a 1100 mile shakedown, a roundtrip to Vegas and back, car did great.
Aren't all North American W211's electronically limited to 155mph or am I tripping?
Just completed a 1100 mile shakedown, a roundtrip to Vegas and back, car did great.
Aren't all North American W211's electronically limited to 155mph or am I tripping?
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 949
Likes: 47
From: San Diego
2004 E55
Looking killer! Does the car have any noticeable difference in handling characteristics or the way it tracks with the new width? A quick polish will knock that residue left from the old badges..unless you dig it of course.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
One step at a time, trust you me I'm not sitting here with arms folded.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Finally had the ***** to try and link the Summer Jam layout and... it worked!
External POV:
Cabin POV:
External POV:
Cabin POV:
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
I was studying the Wisefab angle kit installed on an S14 today at Works motorsports and comparing to the suspension design of the W211, thinking about what it would take to pull this off.
Not committed to doing it or not doing it, exploratory stage. Would up the excitement factor of this build a couple of notches
I do not work on other people's cars, but I accept this as a compliment!
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Took the car to Works Motorsports today, they were celebrating their 15 years in business with a free-dyno-and-raffle day.
What an excellent bunch of people, they had already helped me out once when I failed pre-drift tech for front tires being too bald in a pinch and I'm yet again humbled by that crew.
They had developed and launched to market the first ever BRZ/FRS CARB-legal turbo kit. Offering both stage 1 and stage 2. That's just plain cool, making it possible to legally upgrade one of the best affordable sport chassis of our time.
Anyways, the Benz surprised everyone at the event. My car has perfect or near-perfect compression in all cylinders.
I understand these hub dynos read relatively high to Mustang and Dynojets (as general folklore would suggest), but having seen a cared-for BMWCCA E46 328i register 175 hub horsepower (and a couple of other cars), I am relatively confident in these readings.
What follows is a testament to both the Mercedes Benz engineering and quality as well as an excellent off-the-shelf product from Eurocharged (I'm running their 83mm clutched pulley with a tune):
The car delivered ~490 ft-lbs of torque at 2000-3500 RPM after losses on a Dynapack hub dyno and the motor has 125K miles on it. Let that sink in for a bit. Adjusted for drivetrain losses of 20% that yields up to 620 peak ft-lbs at the crank.
Horsepower peaked and stayed at 424, adjusted for crank would give us 530HP. I did not need or want more power out of this build, but it was nice to be able to mechanically verify the drivetrain status.
What an excellent bunch of people, they had already helped me out once when I failed pre-drift tech for front tires being too bald in a pinch and I'm yet again humbled by that crew.
They had developed and launched to market the first ever BRZ/FRS CARB-legal turbo kit. Offering both stage 1 and stage 2. That's just plain cool, making it possible to legally upgrade one of the best affordable sport chassis of our time.
Anyways, the Benz surprised everyone at the event. My car has perfect or near-perfect compression in all cylinders.
I understand these hub dynos read relatively high to Mustang and Dynojets (as general folklore would suggest), but having seen a cared-for BMWCCA E46 328i register 175 hub horsepower (and a couple of other cars), I am relatively confident in these readings.
What follows is a testament to both the Mercedes Benz engineering and quality as well as an excellent off-the-shelf product from Eurocharged (I'm running their 83mm clutched pulley with a tune):
The car delivered ~490 ft-lbs of torque at 2000-3500 RPM after losses on a Dynapack hub dyno and the motor has 125K miles on it. Let that sink in for a bit. Adjusted for drivetrain losses of 20% that yields up to 620 peak ft-lbs at the crank.
Horsepower peaked and stayed at 424, adjusted for crank would give us 530HP. I did not need or want more power out of this build, but it was nice to be able to mechanically verify the drivetrain status.
Last edited by jumph4x; Apr 28, 2018 at 09:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Showed the girl some much needed love yesterday.
Upgraded the radiator to a Nissens part number, replaced all coolant hoses, replaced overflow tank, replaced service and supercharger belts, all new pulleys and idlers+tensioners.
Some new ATF fluid, took the bumper off and put on clear side markers.
In the process I cut up the BaumTools universal dipstick. At 105mm graduation is a good place to do it, so that it now descends all the way into the oilpan and doesn't stick out, sealing the vacuum at the top.
Before I cut it up, the 8.5L cold reading was around 145mm on that tool.
After cutting I just ran the car, warmed up and made a couple measurements, finally putting my own mark on the dipstick for a full-fill, so I can do quick trackside checks.
Another good pro-tip is when filling ATF and checking the level, the iCarsoft MBII tool is quite helpful because it's possible to read out transmission temperature via CanBus, so the 80C measurement can be quite precise.
That and the *you have to drive the car around for 20 minutes to warm it up!* bit of folklore is simple not true. Warmed the ATF up on jackstands by engaging all solenoids in about that much time without having to drive.
Today is a CNC milling day! I'm making new steering wheel plugs and also designed some external bumper mounts that I plan to secure using M5 stainless rivet-nuts instead of the factory sandwich slides that are hard to take off and put on.
Also, found a failed bushing on my front left LCA. Replacements in the mail.
Upgraded the radiator to a Nissens part number, replaced all coolant hoses, replaced overflow tank, replaced service and supercharger belts, all new pulleys and idlers+tensioners.
Some new ATF fluid, took the bumper off and put on clear side markers.
In the process I cut up the BaumTools universal dipstick. At 105mm graduation is a good place to do it, so that it now descends all the way into the oilpan and doesn't stick out, sealing the vacuum at the top.
Before I cut it up, the 8.5L cold reading was around 145mm on that tool.
After cutting I just ran the car, warmed up and made a couple measurements, finally putting my own mark on the dipstick for a full-fill, so I can do quick trackside checks.
Another good pro-tip is when filling ATF and checking the level, the iCarsoft MBII tool is quite helpful because it's possible to read out transmission temperature via CanBus, so the 80C measurement can be quite precise.
That and the *you have to drive the car around for 20 minutes to warm it up!* bit of folklore is simple not true. Warmed the ATF up on jackstands by engaging all solenoids in about that much time without having to drive.
Today is a CNC milling day! I'm making new steering wheel plugs and also designed some external bumper mounts that I plan to secure using M5 stainless rivet-nuts instead of the factory sandwich slides that are hard to take off and put on.
Also, found a failed bushing on my front left LCA. Replacements in the mail.
