tlambert

jumph4x

Voila.

Also below is the creative direction/branding I had a friend do for me.

jumph4x

ECE engine+transmission mounts are in, unbolting the steering rack is definitely the way to go on this task. Pretty low drama.

Thrust and front lower control arms are in.
This took some frustration and soul-searching but finally accepted I should do the job right, which involves taking off brake calipers, brake discs, unbolting dustshield, rotating it out of the way and using an actual tie-rod separator/puller to split the ball joints from the knuckle.
Installed external front bumper mounts, cut off factory internal ones.
Raised the rear a smidge.

Some more on thrust arms:

There are multiple bushing design versions available for these cars, I was sent the TRW units and I noticed the bushing is a lot sparser than what is presumably the Genuine versions (unverified). See photos below.



If I don't end up with spherical joint solid arms, I might have to redo this job in some years with the solid-fill variant.
On my car the first piece of suspension failure was the inboard lower control arm joint at the subframe, caused front wheels to toe out at speed and made straight tracking near-impossible.

Left side was easy to detect visually, but the right side would've fooled anybody unless they took a pry-bar to it. Check you car folks.

FCPEuro

D and others interested in a more stout bushing in that tension arm. Substitute in bushing 2113331114, the Lemforder number is 2604301 and is that solid bushing that you typically see installed in the spring control arm on the 211/219. It is the best OE style bushing for the tension strut especially if you are really pushing the car. D, I'm going to send you a set of modified arms from syncrodesignworks that you can install on the car and hopefully provide some feedback here. We are talking about arms that take a half hour to replace at most so it wont be much trouble to swap them out again in a few weeks.

--Kyle

jumph4x

Front plate mount arrived, awaiting some LED resistors for the clear side markers. Getting ready to pad the rear sub and find a couple of rattles and button up the sailpanel.

Have new black suede sun visors, too. Car will be in a great place by the end of the week.

jumph4x

Sent the car to alignment again, told the shop to drill out the tabs in the rear LCAs as per JoeJErnst's suggestion in another thread.

Going to move 255 tires to the front and burn off 245 in the rear today at Sonoma Drift. Have 2x 265 waiting to go in the back. I think 265 on all four corners is where I will end up with this car.

Still waiting on some SMD LED resistors for the front of the car, should be here before the end of the week.

Strigoi

Where are you having the alignment done? I need to have my E63 done but I'm not familiar with any good shops around here. I'd rather not go to the dealer.

jumph4x

I go to the place across the highway, they charge only $85.

Tak is a nice guy, owns the 190E 16V Cosworth.

Strigoi

I'll check them out. Thanks!

jumph4x

Not sure how low your car is, but if it's tucking tire, they won't take it.

jumph4x

Yesterday's shakedown post-alignment with ECE mounts.

I have to say, 40A durometer mounts are a motorsports application. They hold nice and firm, almost too firm. We're interfacing with ECE directly and as I put it, the mounts definitely added to the 'drift' but took away from 'dapper'.
Not an issue once the car is rolling but at idle, certain primary resonance points can definitely be felt.

They are working on a more compliant durometer rating insert package that I will be trying as soon as it's available.

mondo

love the new plates

jumph4x

Me too, took forever, but glad that project is over with.
Car now sits on 255F/265R. LED resistors are here! Tomorrow's hitlist:

- wire in resistors, experiment with a couple versions of LEDs for front corners
- cover brake line-transmission tunnel entrance with black leather/suede
- lower the front a smidge and see about removing a tiny bit more metal
- wash car
- grab more photos

Protip: Tried installing a W219 sun visors - not a 100% fit. Different shape bumps into rear view mirror, doesn't fully close and doesn't slide-extend when using to the side. Stick to W211.

PJmak

Where do you get alignment done on a lowered AMG?

Strigoi

You just saved me a trip. It is tucking.

jumph4x

Front DRL and side-markers are converted to SMD LEDs, wired in 4 resistors. I'm not 100% on using these clamp style splicers, I'm skeptical about how permanent this solution is, but I suppose same as anything: deal with it when and if it becomes an issue. No error codes.

For side markers, I grabbed some cheap Depo clear lenses and spliced into the harness near the connector.
The resistors run hot so they need to be mounted to metal surfaces only.
On the right side I used the condenser mount frame, on the driver's side I put into the bracket that used to hold the Airmatic pump.





For the DRL bulbs, I tapped into the harness up near where it passes the strut mounts:





Here are the external bumper mount rivnuts:



Now the car got washed and I'm off to see if I can make a little boot to hide the brake line entrance to the center console.

AMG suspension design and geometry is identical to non-AMG W211, makes no difference.

My car is lowered but I am running flares, so I can take them off and bring the car to any shop that uses tire clamps. Non-issue.

Check out https://www.yelp.com/biz/auto-innovations-milpitas. They charge around $150 and use wheel clamps, will align cars that are tucking.

There is absolutely nothing to do in the area, so bring a book, a Kindle or a laptop.

jumph4x

The tunnel is covered up, my black leather ended up matching the car's shift boot, this is good for now.

\

I keep playing with various tire sizes. Currently the car is not happy because it can detect a different rolling diameter front-to-rear.
One thing is for sure, whether I end up using 265/255/245 width, I need to go to 35 profile on the next tire change.
Car is currently raked out, but what's next?

sterz85

If you had to take a bumper off, how would you go about doing that?

​​​​

jumph4x

Ive been having to do it quite a bit so I made the external holders. 6 allen head stainless bolts per side, 3 allen head bolts for the front of the flares and the factory 4 holding it to headlighta, bumper support.

Quicker than factory setup.

jumph4x

Off to some place far:



Thirsty car:



Long road ahead:

jumph4x

Somewhere on the east coast, near my final destination:





New tire sizes, new suspension height and valve settings:





Menacing clouds, nothing like California:



Pretty, old structures:



Derelict:



Do not enter.

tw2

Great photos, how do you prevent yourself from just flooring it down roads like the one above? I would get a ticket almost immediately if we had roads like that here.

drothgeb

Looks like NV, we've got lots of rural area just like that

Strigoi

Based off a previous post of his asking about going faster than the 155 mph speed limiter I think he indulges a bit.

Strigoi

Is that 14 in Mojave area (Cantil/CA City)? If not, it looks very similar to down there.