Bosch 09850 spark plug wires - $140.
Different part numbers and lengths so see attached for how to match plug wires to location. You should already have the Mercedes spark plug wire removal tool. Disconnect wires from coils, unbolt coils and swing them out of the way, then use removal tool to get the old wires off of the old plugs. Don't forget to use dielectric grease when you reinstall everything.

Be advised the caliper bolts are one-time use only. Mercedes documents recommend running a tap through the caliper mounting threads to remove any remnants of the old micro-encapsulation locking compound.
M12x1.25 plug tap rear, M14x1.25 plug tap front.

Grade 10.9 caliper bolts from the factory; 115 N-m (85 ft-lb) rear calipers, 180 N-m (133 ft-lb) front calipers. Beware when they break loose!

211-423-00-71 rear bolts, M12x1.25x35
001-990-08-14 front bolts, M14x1.25x32

If you have access to WIS, search out the section on replacing the rotors and read all of the associated material. Tedious but filled with nuggets of info. ar42.10-p-0070ra.

Oh yeah. Disable the SBC! If you have the brake pads out and someone opens a car door or you hit the key fob, the system pressurizes to close to 900 psi and blows the pistons all over the floor (unless your fingers are in there).

 

You should be 15* F above ambient temp on your dash cruising... put that CWA pump on there!

Seats- pump is prolly dying in the back left of car... the one encased in foam that looks like it could overheat. It prolly is/has and is flaking out

Door Handle Removal

I want to say the bolt is behind the door seal... you need a long T handle T30 to get in there

I had a door handle loose and had to tighten it up, I will look after work

 

Any normal vender should have them FCPeuro is where I usually go, PelicanParts is a few bucks more usually but still good

Decent pricing here as well but I have not used them

https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com

 

So, you recommend the OEM bosch over the Magnecore set then I take it?

I already purchased those bolts for the rear from that order to genuinemercedesparts.com. However, I did not even think about the fronts for when I do the pads up front. I should order those. Thanks so much for that info. I do have WIS, I will look up those notes.

Best way to disable SBC? I was just going to disconnect battery and hide my keys with the doors closed and locked. Should I take another precaution?

Thanks for the info.

 

Magnecore are great wires; used them all the time with my TEC-2 equipped turbo Miata. The Bosch are high quality.

Disable SBC using DAS/Xentry. The instructions are both in DAS and in the WIS.

 

Front door handle bolt

 

I wouldn't worry about the wires I haven't heard of anyone having one fail.
It was more of a old school thing to change wires and plugs that people carried into modern cars.

 

Shell rotella elc (extended life coolant) good for over 100,000 miles and is better than manufacture coolant. They also have coolant for better heat transfer.

 

Um, The only thing Shell that'll go in my car is gas.
MB coolant it is.
Gonna stock to mobile 1 oil too.

Working on car last night and today. Bench tested and installed the CWA50 pump. Had to retro fit a bit to get the hoses to fit right and soldered in and shrink wrapped the correct wire harness for the new pump and, admittedly, jimmyrigged a "mount" in the form of a large distorted hose clamp and a couple zip ties.

 

Working on heat exchanger now.

 

A little stencil work trimmed out with a metallic silver paint marker to add a bit o style. Had to personalize it a touch

 

 

Finished up last night about 20 minutes before I had to be at work.. I work third shift

After I got off work this morning, I put the car thru it's paces. Just cruising, IAT are now a constant 20* over ambient. It was 66* out today, and IATs were 86* at normal driving cruising speed. A good solid WOT pull saw it climb up to 120* and step steadily back down as soon as I backed off. Muuuuch better. The highest temp I saw was after a hard long pull from 10 mph to 140 mph which was right after another shorter WOT pull before it could recover. I saw it hit 138*. Took 20 seconds to get back down to 105* and almost another minute to get all the way back to 86*. So far, I'm quite happy with the new pump and HX. Additional cooling mods may come down the road, but for now I think it's sufficient.

Before, normal cruising temps were 130* - 140* and would spike out over 205* if you held your foot in it long enough, then obviously all power is cut and limp mode engages. Then after a run like that it would take a couple minutes to get down to 180* and wouldn't ever get any better. That, my friends, was a completely dead pump. I bench tested it after removal and couldn't even get it to turn on once. The last 2 - 3 weeks have sucked because of this. Before that, it would work intermittently and half assed when it would come on. My $100 purchase of this CWA 50 pump out of a wrecked BMW has paid off. Maybe someday I'll upgrade to the CWA 100 if I can find one, but for now this thing is working awesome.

Flushed coolant system with distillled water 4 times. It was gold so I'm sure it was the original coolant. There was more soot and crud in it than I was comfortable seeing. I also flushed it after the new HX was installed and a small amount of aluminum particles flushed out, which is to be expected. Did that once more and filled it up wiht the new blue Mercedes coolant. Super easy to bleed. I just connected the pins on the pump to a spare battery I had laying around to run the pump to bleed it.

After I put all that back together and got the front end reassembled, I got a bit more oil out of hte supercharger, only 100 ml total came out. Filled with 125 ml, started engine for a bit, siphoned oil back out, and refilled again to give it a flush.

I also pulled the supercharger pulley off and added a shim to get my .35 - .45mm gap. It still rubs a bit though, the friction plate on the pulley doesn't sit right, the 3 springs don't hold it perfectly. Its like one spring is worn out and won't pull it all the way away from the bell housing like it should as the other 2 do. Oh well, it'll be ok for now I think. The new 77mm pulley will go on soon within a couple weeks along with a BWK and the headers so it'll be rectified soon enough. But first, new plugs and a base Dyno run in stock trim.

I had a productive Memorial Day weekend on the car, but now my wife is harping on me that I didn't do enough around the house. Shame on me for choosing to be under the car instead of installing her new ceiling fan and a fresh storm door for the deck . sheesh

More news is soon to come

 

Transmission flush will also be coming soon.

any pointers or a parts list to order?

 

these cars transmissions should never be force flushed. There are some good threads on here how to do it through the transmission fluid line.

 

I used this. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...osin-722-6fck2

 

looks like a solid kit. you should also buy the dipstick tool

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140589152-Tr...VX6LwA&vxp=mtr

 

I also offer the dipstick tool at this link

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...e-140589152100

--Kyle

 

Is pentosin the OEM fluid, the same that I'd get at the MB dealership?

 

Yes, Pentosin is reboxed Fuchs fluid.

 

So, Today there were more unexpected expenses. I replaced both batteries today. My local tuner was nice enough to Give me near wholesale prices on AC Delco AGM batteries for the main and aux... $165.99 for the main, and $75.99 for the Aux. Total price plus tax, $259.52. Score.. excellent prices for AGM batteries from a trusted name like AC Delco. Good piece of mind here since the regular lead acid non AGM Mercedes battery in there was from 09/2009.

I had the red dash light of death for battery/alternator visit workshop for a day and half. Then, today, I lost all convenience features, followed by complete loss of brakes. All but like maybe .5% of my braking power was gone so I limped to my tuner which thankfully was close by. My electrical system didn't even have enough power to have audible blinker clicks. So coasting about 25 mph in a 55 with one foot on the emergency brake was my driving style for about 15 min. Awesome. I had a nasty stench of a burnt electronic motor smell coming from my engine bay that just reeked. I first thought it was the blower motor for the AC since that cut off, but no. Nor was it the IC pump I just replaced, or the fan whose electrical plug I accidentally got a bit of coolant on. All those options ran thru my head. Nope. After installing the brand new batteries and witnessing lower voltage with it running than with it off, we took a close peek at the alternator, which was literally melted. The plastic shroud on back was literally burnt and melted to the metal case of the alternator. Yay

I was surprised to find that O'Reilly has remanufactured 180 amp Alt for this car for only $165. That seems beyond reasonable. It'll be here in the morning and we'll install it when it gets here.

I guess my spark plug job can wait until the essentials are taken care of. I also ordered new OEM plug wires from amazon at $161.28. They'll be here by the time I get to the plugs.

Also, I picked up a CWA 100 pump in case I want to upgrade my CWA 50 if it isn't quite enough when I get my pulley, headers, and tune on the car. There happened to briefly be one on eBay so I jumped on it wether I needed it or not. So far, the CWA 50 is running like an absolute champion though. If it can keep up with the higher heat generated from more SC boost after the goodies go on, then I'll post the CWA 100 for sale here.

Dynamic seats quite working again. Man it was great while it lasted, and someday, i want to get a permanent fix whatever that might be.

I'll keep you all posted on progress

 

I just went through this as well... though I only had a mile to go so voltage didnt drop enough to alter SBC function. Glad you got there safely and that is indeed a great deal on an alternator!

So now your charging system is up to spec for at least another 50k miles. CWA-100 flow may be too fast to allow fluid to cool while in the heat exchanger without a storage tank (engine bay or trunk tank)

Something to ponder I guess

 

Don't get discouraged with your car.

I believe most, if not all, of us owners of a used E55 have been in your shoes. Once you get the maintenance up to par, you'll have a reliable car and you will have an ear-to-ear grin.

 

Oh not to worry! I'm far from discouraged. Actually I kind of enjoy this stuff. I don't mind one bit sinking money into this car to make it as reliable as I can for the next 100k. I'd rather have it happen now while I'm around town in the middle of doing all my maintenance anyhow rather then have problems like this arise while I'm out of town relying on the car for a family trip or something.

I absolutely love the car. I really want to figure out a way to eliminate the squeak in the panorama glass though. Over bumps and driveway transitions it makes enough noise to annoy the crap out of me as the chassis torsion settles. That's my biggest complaint so far... And the fact that it's not fast enough, I'm really gonna have to do something about that soon.

 

When the electrical system was failing, it got to the point where I couldn't close the sunroof or roll up windows. When I got it back to the tuners place, I got the batteries in, and since then I can't reset the sunroof. It will not close. The windows work perfectly as does everything else I believe, but I can't figure out the sunroof. Is the reset not possible if the sunroof is already in the up vented position? Do I need to manually close it with a crank somehow and then do the reset procedure, which, correct me if I'm wrong, involves just pressing up to open it to the vent position then holding the up button for 3 seconds just like I did with the windows.

I need to get the sunroof to close, please help. If anyone can chime in please do so. Thanks