You guys mentioned dielectric grease on the spark plugs for the wires, stupid question how much do you use, a blob or just a thin layer wiped on? I haven't used it before.

 

Very thin layer is how I do it. It is a dielectric (insulator) after all. No globs and go easy with it. I only apply mine on the 1/4" of inner boot closest to the outside.

 

It should have functioned as soon as power was re-applied. You can use a 4mm allen-head T-handle wrench to close it. I keep one in both of my E55s. Not trying to avoid answering your question but it's been over a year since I reset mine and I can't remember it.... :-(

 

Hold open on the sunroof for 10 seconds. That reset mine. Mine moved fine it wouldn't close all the way.

 

Thanks, it's good now. I was trying to do it with the engine on and it wouldn't reset. Tried it again with key on engine not running and it finally worked. Crisis averted

 

It was 85* - 88* ambient yesterday and humid, and I went for a hard drive in the car. I saw a max IAT of 145* and that was after I was consistently on it hard for at least a full minute. As soon as you back off the throttle the temps drop fast, All the way down to 110* very quickly. That last little bit to come down into the 95* area takes a little bit longer than the initial drop, but within another minute it sits right around 95* cruising. Very very happy with my PLM heat exchanger in combo with the pierburg CWA 50 pump. I see no reason whatsoever to drop in the CWA 100 I purchased or any other cooling upgrades at this time. When the headers, 77mm pulley, BWK, and tune get slapped on the car, ill reassess the heat situation. If at that point I encounter heatsoak under any conditions, I'll throw in the CWA 100 and see if it helps. Next step would be either a trunk tank or meth or both, but I'm hoping it won't come to that.

 

Thanks for the referral. It is ordered and on its way.

 

Awesome job! I'm glad to see some current activity for the 55's on the forum. I have a similar setup on my SL55, I like the amg logo nice touch. I'm just running a Bosch 010 now, seems to work alright for iat's. keeps it generally around 20-30 above ambient cruising and WOT. I have a weistec HE that's plumbed after the stock HE. I want to install a CWA50 like you did. I was wondering if you could assist with some input on the wiring from the CWA connector to the stock wires. Colors to which wire, pin connections, etc..? Thanks! *Also not sure what type of oil you went with for the SC but This is the stuff I used Mobil 387 its the upgraded version of Mobil jet oil II which is the stock type.

https://pilotshq.com/mobil-387-turbi...RoCNOAQAvD_BwE

 

I found the mobil jet oil II at my local airport and were kind enough to sell it to me for $17. The wiring on the CWA 50 can be found with a search, but if I remember correctly, which I may not, but I think pin 1 was the ground, pin 2 empty for 100% duty, and pins 3 and 4 were both 12V. It takes a couple second delay before it will kick on so don't get discouraged if it doesn't spark up to life as soon as you bench test it. Also, there are different styles of CWA 50 pumps that have different "nipples" or whatever you want to call it for the male hose connector. The CWA 50 I had was a VW part and seemed to have a quick release style input and I had a terrible time getting a hose to seal tight and secure without leaking. I upgraded to the CWA 100 more due to the fact that it had way better, longer, ridged, beefier connectors to fasten the hose secure. I have noticed next to no benefit of running the CWA 100 over the 50, as I think most gains were already seen from the CWA 50 over stock. However, I feel confident that if and when I further upgrade the cooling to possibly split cooling with a trunk tank and ice, that the CWA 100 will have been worth it for the better pressure over a longer plumbing run. I think you can find CWA 50 pumps with the same shank as found on my CWA 100. Check out the pic to see what I'm referring to. Also, keep in mind you will have to get creative for the mounting of the CWA pump as it is not a direct install for the stock mounting setup. Cheers

 

I haven't updated this in awhile so I better fill in the progress over summer.

June 21st, I replaced the plugs and wires. Plugs were one step colder NGK plugs following the advice of most people here on MBworld. The special angled wrench was very handy and I don't think I'd ever recommend anyone attempt this job without it. Very easy job though. Anyone complaining about how hard the plugs are to reach or about "bruised knuckles"... I'd have to say you are straight up out of your minds. I've done plugs on 4 cylinder sport bikes that I wouldn't choose to do before I'd do all 16 of these again. It really wasn't bad. The plugs all looked exactly the same with the same wear on the contact and the same light brownish tint of color. Pic is of one side's plugs


Very healthy and very good to see for 102k mile plugs. The wires were definitely in need of replacing and anyone that says they don't need to be replaced with the plugs after 100k is not someone to be taking advice from. I measured all wires and the worst resistance differential between the new and old was .6 k ohm. More than enough to necessitate replacing.

I replaced the CWA 50 pump with the CWA 100. Not because I was unhappy with the performance of the pump, but because the flanges on the CWA 100 I have are much longer and stout that my hose clamps don't slip off and leak. If you purchase a used CWA 50 off of ebay from a wrecked car or something to install, make sure you don't get one with the "quick release style flange"...or whatever you want to call it. There isn't enough area on the intake flange to get a reasonable fitment. I think it used a specific quick release connector specific to the vehicle it came off of. The CWA 100 is now installed and I cleaned up the mount job a bit while I was at it. It was harder to bleed the CWA 100 as it foamed the coolant more. It would be suitable I think for a system with more flow requirements than simply a stock vehicle with nothing more that a slightly larger heat exchanger. Temps are almost identical to the CWA 50, if not a bit higher. The CWA 50 is more suitable for this application IMHO. I would expect that the installation of a trunk tank to be the situation that would see a benefit in using the CWA 100 over the CWA 50 as I stated in the previous post, but hey, I'm new at this so what do I know
Pic is of the CWA 50 which was from a wrecked VW i got on eBay next to the CWA 100 I got from a more current gen AMG bi turbo. I'm holding the stock pump for comparison.


June 30th, We slapped the car on my local tuner's Mustang Dyno after the spark plug install to get a good baseline while in stock form. (Stock other than the PLM heat exchanger, CWA 50 pump at the time, and the one step colder NGK plugs)
Please note that this is the biggest and baddest Mustang Dyno they make, and it's quite unforgiving vs DynoJets and others that seem to produce more inflated #s.


We also did a 3rd gear pull just for fun. Yes I know, it's cheating, but hey, I said for fun OK!




It was about 88* Fahrenheit that day and humidity around 50 or so. I thought these were healthy numbers and was quite happy with the power it was putting down for a stock E55 and felt good about proceeding with the mods.

Out of time for now, but More to follow on that soon. As soon as I get more time I will update further with the upgrade process, new dyno results, issues, etc.

 

Cool thanks for the detailed info. I found this from vrp i thi k its a cwa 100 they have the connector modified for a 2 wire connection. Positive negative. I thought id check and see how it would work by soldering into the stock positive negative wires. It worked amazingly well and pumps very strong. Plus in my tune it kicks on in key position 2 and always on when the engine is running. Im getting a custom pnr trunk tank and a killer chiller with a 3 way bypass.

 

very cool. Can I ask how much VRP charged for the pump? They sound like they are becoming more and more legit, especially with a promo from legitstreetcars Youtube channel. How do you set up the tune so it programs the pump to always run? ID be very interested in this. I thought about wiring in a switch so I could flip it and have it constantly pump, but would need help with schematics so it would still function from ECU too. Killer chiller sounds sweet, but too invasive for me. Where do u live that this is necessary? I' in IL so temps are only an issue a few months out of the year. Sounds like u got the bug bad... now feed it
stay tuned for more updates

 

I paid 349 for the pump. I originally had a tune from eurocharged. I think they may have programmed the tune to be that way. I have heard that they program it to turn on the pump with the first throttle press. But for mine its just always running. Then I was having issues with the injector clips for the 550 injectors not making a good contact and just causing intermittent misfires so I ended up talking to Cory at kleemann that told me I didn't even need those injectors with my setup and I put the stock injectors back in and I havnt had any issues at all with the kleemann tune and stock injectors. Layed down 600 ft lbs to the wheels at 3100 Rpms and 500 hp at 6100 on a dyno jet, im happy with that and that was on a 75 degree day iats went up to 120. Cory said they don't mess with the pump settings in their tune. So either it was that way stock for my car or it was in the ec tune when I sent it to kleemann and that part of the ecu was unaltered.
I'm down in VA and it gets about 90-100 humid for June July and august and its 60 or below from about mid November to march. Although in va we can have a sunny high of 80 a blizzard a storm like the end of the world all in 1 day and I plan to just run the kc for anything above 60 ambient. Which is like march - November. About 8 months out of the year. I was a bit skeptical and didn't want to cut into the ac system at first. But I have all types of ac equipment and if I ever wanna go back stock its just replacing the condensor to evap line. I did research on it and if you bypass the he while running the kc then you shouldn't loose any cabin cooling. So the 3 way bypass will make it so I can flip the switch and run it in the months in want. The cool thing is that we can control the temps in our cabins so we can run the ac and still blow the right amount of comfy heat in the cabin if we want to and the kc would still cooling like champ. The idea for the switch is good for the pump, I hear a lot of guys do that with a tap a fuse adapter which probably gives a stronger electrical connection to the pump for amp draw for your setup.
I thought about doing a dual he setup which i have a 12x14x2 he sitting in my garage that will actually fit right behing the metal bumper. but im going to give the kc setup a **** instead cause I want below ambient temps.
The vrp pump is made to be able to wire into the stock wires so for me everything is on auto which I like. I thought about meth cause I hear that's the way to go but its got to have a tune and it has to be placed right and then that will just need to be something else to fill up every so often. Its probably the best solution for IAT's though. Next mod after that is a quiafe LSD.