87geeinn

I read through this entire thread and there's one thing you haven't checked: Wheel bearing play. I just finished rebuilding my front suspension and noticed clunking over every little bump in the road. I thought maybe one of the ball joints had failed already. Nope.

I jacked the car up with the front end on jack stands. Both wheels had noticeable free play/clunking when grabbing each wheel at the 12 and 6 o' clock position. The free play was not in any of the suspension components but excessive hub wheel bearing play. Try this and see if you have noticeable movement. I popped the wheels and dust caps off and was able to turn each retaining nut about a 1/8th turn clockwise in order for them to be hand tight. Buttoned it all back up and rides like it's on glass. I'm going to Harbor Freight to get a dial indicator and magnetic mount to make sure I have the end play within specs (.01-.02mm).

I have no idea why this issue became prevalent after rebuilding the suspension but it did. I had to remove the lower control arms several times because I was dealing with failed K-Mac bushings and ultimately ended up replacing them with stock bushings and using the crash bolts. I'm just going to live with the camber issue. But that's a whole other story...

Beast55AMG

Hey guys, those are both good ideas/points that you bring up. I will go through and check all the bolt torque specs and ensure they are not too tight or too loose (I doubt too loose). Also, I have tried the wheel test at the 12 and 6 o clock wiggle but it seemed tight to me but that's really good knowledge and I'll remember that and consider checking if symptoms not improving. As for an update, I am working on replacing the lower control arms today and wanted to share some more photos. I noticed that the grooves where I believe the camber alignment bolts takes place were worn and some metal pieces fell out after removing the bolts. I posted a picture of the worn metal grooves and the new unit to compare. Has anyone ever seen this? Thanks again and ill send another update after the test drive with new lower control arms put in place.


Ian

87geeinn

Yep, that's what the notches look like after they've been sheared off. Just be careful when torquing the nut back down. It doesn't take much to shear them since it's aluminum. Keep the bolts nice and loose until you lower the car back down and put the suspension under load. Then torque the nuts down while holding the bolt head still. Those new control arms look aluminum and not steel. Looks to have a slightly different design too around the bushing area.

Beast55AMG

Ok so I installed the two new Lemforder front lower control arms and it did help get some of the popping sounds I would hear when turning the steering wheel and overall sounds much better. I think overall with all the repairs it sounds dramatically better and possible need the front right air spring / strut replaced in the upcoming future as there are now a few sounds going over bumps on the right side mostly but it sounds so much better I'm gonna let it ride for a while. I think it makes sense that those grooves were sheered off, possibly it was done while removing the bolts? That is good advice about torquing them down while weight of car on wheels and to apply counter pressure on the bolt while tightening the nut and I think it's easy to understand from the photos how easy it can be to sheer off those grooves. My control arm felt as heavy as the one I removed so I think it's made of the same metal, and I believe Lemforder is supposed to be OEM according to the website I bought it from. Thanks again everyone for all the help and suggestions. Car running good. Got to get it aligned now. Overall I spent $600 in parts and it will be about $100 for an alignment so it was quite an expensive endeavor but now I feel confident in the handling. Thanks again!

Ian

87geeinn

Awesome. I suggest getting the lifetime alignment from Firestone. Ive been to two locations now and they always let me talk to the techs and go out in the bay to supervise the work being done. Both times I had had alignment techs that actually know what they're doing. Worth the $200 if you plan on owning the car for awhile. Sometimes they run specials for $175 or so. Pays for itself if you tinker on the suspension a lot.

Beast55AMG

That's good advice I'll see if my local firestone has that option as I've had this car aligned probably like 10 times since I've owned it for past 3-4 years. Thanks!

87geeinn

They all do and it's valid at any Firestone. Good for people like me who move frequently.

87geeinn

Ian, cross-posting this as you may find it helpful: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...djustment.html

Beast55AMG

Thanks for the link. I was double checking the wheels again to ensure no wiggling when the car is raised and I did notice a slight movement and metallic sound on the right side when trying this at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions so will check out that bearing today. The link is very helpful thanks! Will post update shortly.


Ian

Beast55AMG

Ok, the bearing is tight so I don't think its the problem but I didn't use that tool to check its exact movement tolerances. The sound might be coming from the upper ball joint possibly but its hard to pin point. Thanks for the help!


Ian

BoostedAero

Go to home goods store, buy a rubber mallet

Go home

Loosen Lugs, jack car up, place on jack stands

Take wheel off

Go to town whacking on stuff and listening... I cannot believe you have not killed this squirrel yet

Rallyboy383

Ian, did the front lower control arms solve the knocking issue? I have a noise that is similar but I did not want to order the control arms if they do not help solve the problem.

skylinrcr01

Since you did the front control arms, do you know the size of that giant etorx bolt holding the control arm to the frame? I've had some trouble identifying the size.

Thanks

Beast55AMG

Hey skylinrcr01, I believe the size of the e-torx is E18 (good to get as same is also used on your brake calipers). I had to buy it online because the local stores didn't carry it. I actually replaced it with camber bolts (easy to buy from Mercedes dealer or online) and they use the regular 21mm ratchet hex type bolt. The camber bolts help you if your car is lowered.


Hey Rallyboy383, some of the suspension popping noises I would hear with turning the steering wheel have decreased in intensity and gone away but I still do hear them occasionally still. How does the bushing on your control arm look? Mine had some cracks / breaks in the bushing.


Thanks!


Ian

skylinrcr01

Metal. Thanks man!