Ya think????

 

That is one of the funniest things I've seen in awhile.

 

HAHAHAH

 

 

These cars eat engine mounts, might want to change trans mounts too. Funny, looked like it was going to crawl out and walk away.

 

Yep, both mounts and trans mounts on the way. Speaking of R&R, are there any tips? I did a search but didn't see anything definitive. I read anecdotal stuff about how some people removed the headers and where others said that's not necessary. I assume it's just going to consist of a lot of swearing, mechanical interference from the sway bar, difficult to reach bolts, etc.

 

IMO, While you are under there, replace flex disc as well. I didn't have that advice.

 

Oh yeah, you most definitely need new engine mounts. If you gave that engine anymore gas, it would jump right out of the engine bay

 

How didn't you feel that at idle? My E63 had blown mounts when I bought it and it was pretty obvious. Same with my old W210 E55.

Removing the manifolds is not necessary. The job isn't terribly difficult if you have a lift and something to hold the engine up. It took my friend about half an hour to swap mine at his shop. I paid $120 for both mounts from AutohausAZ.

 

Idles just fine surprisingly. No other indication that anything was amiss. I don't have a lift or a cherry picker. This will be done in my driveway on my back just like everything else I've ever done. I'm sure I can figure out something with a jack and a block of wood to support the engine from underneath. I'll take a few pics and do a writeup if I don't get too frustrated and bogged down with things.

 

Buy the mounts with 8's in the part #. the other ones fit but won't last long. Pelican parts has them last time I checked.
Buy a 16mm ratcheting box end wrench. Take the steering rack loose at the two mounting bolts, maybe the sway bar links too (I can't remember) and lift the engine from the bottom. The mounts will come out the bottom...barely. Manifolds can stay, unless you have headers. I think I took the fender liners out too for more light.

 

Awesome, thanks for the tips and tool recommendation. And yes, I bought part #s 220 240 27 17 98 after cross-referencing them on Pelican Parts.

 

That part # doesn't look right. I don't remember exactly but it had a lot more 8's in it and they were about a $100 each. I just looked on pelican and they don't have them anymore, and the genuine mercedes ones the have are the ones that won't hold up to torque of an AMG. You may have to try a dealer. It sucks doing the job twice. I'll try to find the #. It is on this forum in a few M/M threads.

 

****, I hope it's right. See screen grab from pelicanparts and from an online retailer showing it's for our cars. It looks like they've dropped the "98" from the end of the part number but several places online show it's the same thing with the 98 tacked on the end of it.

 

The febi might work, the other two won't last.

 

The corteco part # for high hp is 80001089. That's what I used THE SECOND TIME.

 

Don't forget to disconnect the battery ground cable. Your going to be working very close to the starter and alternator. You do not want to "light up your life" by touching a wrench to the battery cable!

 

Ha Ha, I did that! (the light thing, not the disconnect thing)

 

Corteco are as good as Oem if not stronger

 

Corteco is OEM. They built them for MB.