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It's been a long process, but I finally got my Killer Chiller installed and I think most of the bugs are worked out. I wanted to keep the engine bay stock, so I used some available spaces to mount everything and keep it all out-of-sight.
I had a custom front-mount tank made and replaced the heat exchanger with it. The capacity is 1.75 gallons. It's based on the PLM H/X, but is 1/2" thicker and 1/2" shorter. It has the same type of mounting pads on the bottom so the oil cooler brackets from the PLM H/X can still be used. It has a drain plug on the bottom, and a bleed port on the top. The inlet and outlet are on each end, which works well with the placement of the KC.
Since I have installed coilovers, the KC unit itself was mounted where the old Airmatic pump used to live. I also removed and coded-out the secondary air injection pump. This approach puts everything in exactly the right place to not only keep them hidden, but to easily route the plumbing. Here you can see the KC mounted under the driver's side headlight, exactly where the airmatic pump used to be. (The zip-ties are for safety only, in case the bracket fails) The return line from the intercooler goes into the KC, which cools the water and dumps it into the tank.
If you mount the KC here, you need to swap out the 90° fitting that comes with the kit with a straight fitting (near the white zip-tie):
The pump sucks the stored cold water out of the tank and sends it up to the intercooler. As you can see here the plumbing all lines up very well with the factory lines.
Here's a shot of the tank installed, with 1/4" self-adhesive foam neoprene insulation applied to it. (Note: the zip-ties are only there because I don't know if the neoprene's adhesive is weatherproof. This way if the adhesive fails the insulation should still be OK; time will tell)
Here's the bleed valve on the top of the tank, accessible in front of the radiator.
The fit behind the bumper is perfect. By making it 1/2" shorter than the PLM H/X I also got rid of the "fat lip effect".
I don't have any track testing yet, but IATs are in the low 50° range during my commute with an ambient temp of 79°. Sitting at idle with the drag valve engaged I have gotten IATs down to 45°
Notice that I never said anything about splitting the system. This whole tank is filled from the OEM overflow tank (with the bleed valve open 'till water comes out).
I'll post an update in a couple weeks when I get back to the track and see how much difference it makes.
How did you change your BST/VAC to psi and how did you go about changing the categories like intake coolant and boost? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to using this app on my iphone. Which custom dashboard did you download?
How did you change your BST/VAC to psi and how did you go about changing the categories like intake coolant and boost? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to using this app on my iphone. Which custom dashboard did you download?
I don't think I downloaded any custom dashboard; it's just the one that came with the app. You can change what is displayed in each column just by tapping on the column; it will cycle through several options.
This is my 2.5 gallon set-up with a KC on top of the bumper bar. Split system, no problems with air locks as the filler is the highest point of the system. The brake battery is now in the trunk. I am currently installing a KC 'drag kit' which lets you isolate the KC so no refrigerant goes to the OEM evaporator.
This tank will only work with a Killer Chiller because it completely replaces the heat exchanger, and it has no provision for adding ice.
Forgive my ignorance, but is the whole idea of installing a big trunk tank based around being able to add ice? I was under the impression that it's to increase overall coolant capacity
Forgive my ignorance, but is the whole idea of installing a big trunk tank based around being able to add ice? I was under the impression that it's to increase overall coolant capacity
It depends on what's most important to the way you use your car. I am only concerned with max performance at the track, so I need a reservoir of ice cold water. I could have done the trunk tank, but that's where I put my drag radials when I drive to the track, plus I like to keep things "stealthy". The KC with a front-mount tank was the best for my needs, so I had one made.
For guys who want better cooling while "racing in Mexico", a trunk tank is a good option, whether or not you ice it down.
It depends on what's most important to the way you use your car. I am only concerned with max performance at the track, so I need a reservoir of ice cold water. I could have done the trunk tank, but that's where I put my drag radials when I drive to the track, plus I like to keep things "stealthy". The KC with a front-mount tank was the best for my needs, so I had one made.
For guys who want better cooling while "racing in Mexico", a trunk tank is a good option, whether or not you ice it down.
I daily drive my car to work and back and around town really, not precisely interested in racing people especially not on the street but I do like to gun it from time to time, so I'm still weighing my options.. thank you for the info.
I went racing with all of the bugs sorted out of the KC and had some positive results.
The setup has shaved about a tenth off my ET and added a MPH or two. Almost all of my runs on Saturday were better than my previous best, with comparable weather.
I was able to start every run with IATs anywhere between 59 and 64 degrees, which is WAYYY better than the 90-110 degrees they used to be on a warm day. The temps still rise about 60-degrees by the end of the 1/4, putting me around 120. I may still add meth to keep them below 100 and help even more with the consistency.
Even without the meth my 60', 1/8th, and 1/4 mile times have never been so consistent. In the end I was able to get the Win for my class on Saturday, so I'm very happy with the setup.
Sure. If you are not pulling timing the meth will make the afr as much as .5 richer depending on ratio to water. Since we use it as a cooling medium it really only makes sure you don't pull timing and keep temp rise down. For the quarter mile if there is enough cold water to keep IAT's under 95 degrees you won't pull timing.
Forgive my ignorance, but is the whole idea of installing a big trunk tank based around being able to add ice? I was under the impression that it's to increase overall coolant capacity
My tank was installed initially with the extra EC H/E in the stage 3 kit. It worked great with 2.5 gal system capacity but limited to getting the tank water to ambient. After removing the H/E and blocking the OEM H/E I installed a KC. Besides heat soak, under full throttle two things control IATs, ambient air temp and temp of the tank water. So I have a temp gauge in the car continually reading the tank water temp. I have the tank water feeding the I/C as this is the coldest water in the system with any volume and remains so during a pull as the A/C compressor turns off on full throttle. Ideally the tank should have enough volume to supply cold water for 12 sec 99% of the time as unless you do the longer speed competitions, a 1/4 mile duration is all you need. Problem with bigger tanks is the recovery time after a pull takes longer. That is where seeing how the tank water temp reacts to throttle, speed etc, while driving assists and lets you know where your IATs will be before a run. Currently my tank water gets down to 40 deg F however Joe Kincaid says it will get below freezing with the valve he sells as a "Drag Kit" and will need antifreeze. The valve isolates the cabin evaporator putting all of the refrigerant through the KC for both colder tank water and faster recovery time. I am having one installed as we speak. My 100-160kph v-box times improved by 2 tenths and is seat of the pants noticeable and breaks the tires loose more easily. Generally right after a 5-6 sec street pull the tank water is still no higher than ambient so a definite improvement with the KC. The valve will reduce the recovery time and cool the water even more.
Hey Joe, Great write up nice looking install. I was interested in seeing your numbers at the track with the Killer Chiller so as to compare what I see with the trunk ice tank. They seem very similar. What was ambient on your best run ? I am usually able to start at 10 degrees below ambient. Most times I am between 110 and 120 degrees at the end of the 1/4. However even with these IATs once ambient is over 80-85 degrees my car slows down 3-4 tenths and 3-4 mph every time. My best runs have been achieved w/ cool dry air in the 50-65 degree area.
The ambient that morning was low 70's, climbing to low 80's by midday. The 11.31 @ 123 was at about 70 degrees, and somewhere around 1000' DA.
If you can get a day w/ DA -400-500, I think you will be very happy and surprised the way the car will respond. The disappointing part at least from what I have seen, you cannot duplicate it again without the same weather.
Good Luck!
My tank was installed initially with the extra EC H/E in the stage 3 kit. It worked great with 2.5 gal system capacity but limited to getting the tank water to ambient. After removing the H/E and blocking the OEM H/E I installed a KC. Besides heat soak, under full throttle two things control IATs, ambient air temp and temp of the tank water. So I have a temp gauge in the car continually reading the tank water temp. I have the tank water feeding the I/C as this is the coldest water in the system with any volume and remains so during a pull as the A/C compressor turns off on full throttle. Ideally the tank should have enough volume to supply cold water for 12 sec 99% of the time as unless you do the longer speed competitions, a 1/4 mile duration is all you need. Problem with bigger tanks is the recovery time after a pull takes longer. That is where seeing how the tank water temp reacts to throttle, speed etc, while driving assists and lets you know where your IATs will be before a run. I have found that the ambient temp makes no difference to the tank water temp so the car will still very much like cold ambient temps. Currently my tank water gets down to 40 deg F however Joe Kincaid says it will get below freezing with the valve he sells as a "Drag Kit" and will need antifreeze. The valve isolates the cabin evaporator putting all of the refrigerant through the KC for both colder tank water and faster recovery time. I am having one installed as we speak. My 100-160kph v-box times improved by 2 tenths and is seat of the pants noticeable and breaks the tires loose more easily. Generally right after a 5-6 sec street pull the tank water is still no higher than ambient so a definite improvement with the KC. The valve will reduce the recovery time and cool the water even more.
I got my car back with the cabin evaporator isolator valve installed. This resulted in a full 10deg F drop in tank water temp to below freezing at 30deg when idling. The problem is that temp starts rising again as soon as I start driving, even when keeping the revs under 2000. I achieved my quickest 100-200kph time so far of 7.3sec with a start tank temp of 43deg and ambient of 65deg. That beats a Ford GT at 8.0 sec and 11.7@ 123 mph and a little slower than a C6 ZR1 at 7.1 sec and 11.2@128mph. So I estimate I have an 11.5@125mph 4,500 lb car (incl. driver) without going to the track. That equates to 685 rwhp according to the formula which I have always thought was too optimistic. That would be 856 fwhp at 20% drive line loss. There is no way I have that much power with a 77mm pulley and ancillaries.
I have to get the system evacuated and re-charged as Joe reckons I might have some water in there as from time to time the tank cooling just stops before recovering again after a few minutes. Ice crystals blocking the orifice in the TXV is what he thinks. Having the tank water temp info while driving is a big benefit to understanding the KC operation. Has anyone else with a KC found such issues upon installation?
Last edited by trabots; 06-24-2017 at 11:06 PM.
Reason: ZR1 not ZO6
06-06-2017, 08:37 PM
