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I truly hope I do, I ll be severely bummed if I dont, and I waste 60 bucks of gaskets, and 6+ hours over nothing...
I just saw you said you didnt replace the bypass gasket. Im 99% sure thats whats leaking. Did you ever see what throttle angle you had in drive stopped when you had stock tb? I saw no change when going back to stock from 82 which has me a little confused.
I think you probably have a leak. Im seeing angles of 2.0 and it sometimes dips to 1.6 for a few seconds. My stock tb does the same. I never logged angles stock so I dont have anything to compare to.
Anything above 1.1 degree is accepted by ECU, and falls within tolerance.
I just saw you said you didnt replace the bypass gasket. Im 99% sure thats whats leaking. Did you ever see what throttle angle you had in drive stopped when you had stock tb? I saw no change when going back to stock from 82 which has me a little confused.
When monitoring live data in star, it gives you range of accepted values, being 1.1-2.5
Awesome. Ive been talking about getting star for a while but I need to pull the trigger! Thanks for the info brotha ill keep you all updated on the 80. Please do the same when you seal her up again!
Already did and showed no leaks. EVERYONE is telling me I have a leak though and apparently a smoke test won’t show for sure. I’m gonna use rtv on all gaskets this time to be 100% sure!
Already did and showed no leaks. EVERYONE is telling me I have a leak though and apparently a smoke test won’t show for sure. I’m gonna use rtv on all gaskets this time to be 100% sure!
Just did mine today with smoke, and I found so many leaks, its not even funny...
I am dropping the SC out of the car tomorrow, and replacing all gaskets, and just like you, I ll be covering the paper gaskets with thin layer of Mercedes RTV, I will also spend extra time cleaning the bottom mating surface of block, as I think dirt is the reason behind minor leaks on the sides seen in the video
I am dropping the SC out of the car tomorrow, and replacing all gaskets, and just like you, I ll be covering the paper gaskets with thin layer of Mercedes RTV, I will also spend extra time cleaning the bottom mating surface of block, as I think dirt is the reason behind minor leaks on the sides seen in the video
Oh wow! Id rather be in your position and actually see leaks then not. Im not seeing anything but I made my own smoke tester which may not be getting smoke far enough into the system. I tried a boost leak test too but heard no hissing but im going to replace them anyway. Good luck hopefully we both come out of this CEL free!
Finished the job earlier today, as expected, the job took a bit longer than 5 hours, started at one, and finished near sunset at 6ish.
The last 6 hours were some of longest in my life, as I waited for the RTV to dry bit.
In details, I replaced all paper gaskets (again, just in case) but this time around, I covered them up with thin layer of Mercedes RTV (loctite 5970), and replaced the dreaded bypass valve neck gasket
Torqued down all bolts to specs: SC bolts 24 n.m, intercooler 20 n.m and surge tanks 9 n.m
Just took the car for a quick spin near midnight, and very pleased with preliminary results:
1- Code did not return in 16 miles driving (will report again after 500 miles).
2- TB angle 2%-3% (The Garmin gauges I am using are not capable for decimal fractures, they show whole numbers)
3- Smoother idle (expected)
4- smoother shift (expected)
5- Bypass valve gasket was beyond shot (see pic)
6- BEST PART: unexpectedly gained One PSI worth of boost, for a total of 13PSI at full throttle pulls above 60MPH, even higher than what the 83mm pulley is rated for
It seems like my bypass valve neck was leaking for sure, but also the rest of gaskets were not sealing right, and the whole assembly added up to a large leak, that affected every aspect of how the car ran.
I will be resetting all adaptation in ECM (ME 2.8.1) tomorrow, and allowing the car to reteach itself how to run, then off to the track one last time this season, to post some final numbers, icing on the cake if I can really break into 11 sec territory this year (I can see many eye brows raising now, but SL55 is a whole 800lbs heavier than E55; 11sec SL is a big deal )
Nice! Glad it went smoothly. I ordered all the gaskets last night and hopefully will get it done this weekend. What didn’t you use to lube that oring? Keep us updated!
Nice! Glad it went smoothly. I ordered all the gaskets last night and hopefully will get it done this weekend. What didn’t you use to lube that oring? Keep us updated!
A silicone spray can, the gasket went in like butter.
My 85mm (82mm tb with the shaft thinned 3mm) is on an working perfect, i used new gaskets an seals an sprayed copper spray on both sides of gaskets to ensure a good seal. The car has no codes an runs great has been for 200 miles no hiccup smooth an tons of power
After reading this exotic metal made sense while its not that the opening is larger ... but that the 82mm throttle body is 82mm with a BIG round shaft in the middle blocking airflow as well as not being efficient at getting the air in the supercharger with the least amount of turbulence as possible ..... by thinning the shaft and making it flat and thin .... I took out 3mm 1.5mm on both sides this adds the extra volume to the incoming air that you take out of the shaft in effect making it 3mm bigger. I loctited the screws in, and then thrimmed them down as well, to make it as aero as possible, I noticed much improved response. and if my butt dyno is any indicator it pulls harder throughout the rev range.
After reading this exotic metal made sense while its not that the opening is larger ... but that the 82mm throttle body is 82mm with a BIG round shaft in the middle blocking airflow as well as not being efficient at getting the air in the supercharger with the least amount of turbulence as possible ..... by thinning the shaft and making it flat and thin .... I took out 3mm 1.5mm on both sides this adds the extra volume to the incoming air that you take out of the shaft in effect making it 3mm bigger. I loctited the screws in, and then thrimmed them down as well, to make it as aero as possible, I noticed much improved response. and if my butt dyno is any indicator it pulls harder throughout the rev range.
Ahhh, I see now...
Interesting to say the least, and makes sense, but it makes me nervous to thin the shaft, and risk breakage of the butterfly fastners, if plate breaks off, engine will rev out of hand, and with 600HP, you could easily overpower brakes, and car can jump forward and run over somebody, before you had time to react, and place it in neutral...
Very interesting, but not for me, there are proper 85 and 90MM TBs out there with proper shaft...
Interesting to say the least, and makes sense, but it makes me nervous to thin the shaft, and risk breakage of the butterfly fastners, if plate breaks off, engine will rev out of hand, and with 600HP, you could easily overpower brakes, and car can jump forward and run over somebody, before you had time to react, and place it in neutral...
Very interesting, but not for me, there are proper 85 and 90MM TBs out there with proper shaft...
Yeah its not for everyone I left plenty of meat on the back side for the screws to tighten properly and also used red loctite which the stock tb doesnt even use and they tightened prefectly. I have done this on old carbs and such and never have had one fail ... shaft will not break at the amount that I removed its not a high stressed part.
shaft will not break at the amount that I removed its not a high stressed part.
Next time you have the air filter off, place ignition in position 2, and watch the TB for a minute, when it goes in self check cycle, and see how quick and violent the plate movement is, because the geared motor that controls the plate; you will see the stress that shaft is under...
10-17-2017, 03:16 PM
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