Mr. Chris

I did this job myself after my original pumps died at 99k miles.. Really not too bad of a job so far, however there is another harness required which I cannot seem to find a diagram for.. On the parts list it's the 211-440-55-08 "Cable Harness"..

Does anyone happen to have install instructions/wiring diagram/connector pin diagram for this second harness? The car starts/drives without it, but the dealer said its required.. They're also quoting me $1,200 JUST to perform the conversion on this harness- and that's not including hours for any other work like seat/trunk panel removal, etc. as that stuff is already out.

As you can see, I sourced parts for less than half of dealer pricing (at least, compared to my local dealers).

Mr. Chris

Just to share a little more-

Here are photos of the driver's side pump as it sits:


As you see here, the existing 5 pot female connector at the bottom left plugged directly into the port on the new driver side pump- however the connector on the pump at the top of the pic does not match the harness on the car. Would anyone mind snapping a pic of their pumps like this to show what the dealer has done here?

Here's the body harness connestor that was previously connected to the original pump- not even close to matching the new pump..

Top side of same connector showing wire colors..

Mr. Chris

Here are pics of the new harness for which I'm hoping to find instructions for installation/ conversion-


Here's the complete "#2 harness"

New fuel pump relay with extra wires

Small, very long, and pre-crimped with a square male pin.

This connector wasn't in the initial parts breakdown, but dealer I'd need it.. ? Looks like the same 5pin connector that was on the existing chassis harness..

Package label from this harness bag, as received.

New fuel pump relay

bbirdwell

Mr. Chris

I will absolutely look into this- however, what to do about the missing harness connector for the plug on top of the drivers side pump? Is this the fuel level sending unit? If so, you would think I could just change that connector to the new pump style and be on my way.. right?

bbirdwell

Driver's side is not a pump. It is a fuel filter/pressure regulator combination. Yes, one can argue it has a venturi "pump" (non-energized and works by pressure differential) to route fuel back to the passenger side but the actual powered fuel pumps are located on the passenger side.
The parts list item 55 above shows:
Replaced by: A 211-470-64-94 (+001 A 211-440-05-07). The +001 indicates one each. This is the adapter harness that will connect the stock harness to the updated tank inner module. The connector that is plugged in in your photos is for the fuel level floats located on each side of the tank.
You are looking for one of these:

Mr. Chris

Thanks for the info and clarification on the driver side..!

This is awesome and surprising as the dealer mentioned nothing of this part #..

So as I have everything, I should be good to go with both adapter harnesses?

Is there any kind of reflash/Star programming needed after everything is installed?

bbirdwell

You're welcome. I was pulling my hair out while learning about the intricacies on this car.
The parts person should have looked up and confirmed the parts required.
With the two harnesses (fuel filter/regulator and the fuel pumps) you will be good to go. I suggest that you just upgrade the stock fuel pump relay with a larger version rather than installing the new harness you have in the photos above. To install, you'll have to tear into the stock harness in the trunk to remove the old and route the new; you'd still have the same weakness with the stock size relay tending to overheat and melt. One of the weaker areas on the 2003 to 2005 model years. In 2006 they went with dual relay design to power the fuel pumps.
No programming required after install.

Mackhack

We got our tank and pumps replaced in 2015 on our 2004 E55 AMG and about a month ago the pump failed, the fuse burned through and the relay got hot and burned the relay holder.

I haven’t checked yet but does that mean MB screwed up and didn’t replace the passenger side harness for the relay and didn’t put the short adapter harness in?

If that is the case I will go back and request a check for the pump assembly that we had to replace as well as for the the relay and relay holder. They also need to give us the adapter and new harness then. I’ll put that in myself so I know it’s done right.

Your input is much appreciated.

Thanks.

bbirdwell

Not necessarily...it is possible the fuel filter is getting clogged with debris or the fuel pump pre-filters are partially clogged with debris. This would cause an overcurrent condition that exceeds the margin of safety of the original harness and relay (and that isn't much margin) and causes a meltdown.

Replacement of the relay/fuse and harness located in the trunk is not included in the fuel tank exchange. Having said that, the technician should have installed the short adapter harness on each side under the access ports under the rear seat. Doesn't take more than 10 minutes to pull the seat and open the access port on the passenger side. If the pumps have 00-00 on the lid, there better be the adapter harness connected (if done at the dealer; some people have just re-pinned the harness but that raises issues down the road with a future owner or dealership who do not realize the wiring harness is modified). Be sure to pull the connector and see if the plastic around the pins is melted also.

I concur with your proposed course of action; if improper workmanship resulted in the failure and damage, the dealer should stand by their work and repair it for you.

Let us know what you find.

Mackhack

They replaced the pumps in 2015 with the 00 00 pumps and when I broke down on the way to work 4 weeks ago I removed the seat cushion immediately to check if I hear the pumps. I didn’t hear the pumps and I went straight to the trunk. I checked the fuse and the fuse was burned. I then put a new fuse in and the car started and ran for about 20 seconds before the fuse burned again. Then I removed the right side trunk panel and saw the browned relay holder. We got the pumps (again it’s the ... 00 00),the relay holder and relay replaced for $800. I didn’t have time to replace the pumps myself so we towed the car to my friend’s shop to get the pumps replaced hence the higher amount (compared to just $360 for the pumps).

Yesterday after I found this thread (thank you for your detailed work here), I removed the seat cushion again and opened both lids again and no adapter harnesses are there. I then pulled the invoice from 2015 and voila neither
A 211 540 07 00 (adapter harness) nor
A 211 440 55 08 (harness) nor
A 002 542 72 19 (new relay) nor
A 211 440 05 07 (adapter harness)
are listed on the invoice of the warranty repair.

We have an appointment this Friday. I’ll confront them with the “evidence” we have including the fact that at least one E55 burned up because of that.

The bad pumps’ filters are spotless clean. Our tank has no debris in. We verified that 4 weeks ago. Tech removed the entire fuel before he replaced the pumps. I was there because I had the same thoughts as you had about dirt in the tank that this might have clogged up the filters or the pump. I have the pump assembly in the garage and can upload some pictures. There you can see that two of the 4 pins are also brown from the excessive current draw just like on the relay holder itself.

Mr. Chris

One thing that may be obvious [but then again might not be, depending on the mechanic/person of interest] when replacing a gas tank and really any electric pump - it's purely bad practice to allow the pumps to run dry for ANY amount of time over what's required to prime the pump upon first install. I've seen and heard of individuals replacing pumps and gas tanks but allowing the pump to run inadvertently by leaving the relay plugged in with the battery connected- with little to no fuel in the tank. I've always replaced pumps with no fuel pump relay installed and battery disconnected. Then when install is complete- fill tank at least 1/4 full to ensure complete pump/system priming volume, then plug in relay, followed by battery. i've never had a pump fail using this methodology, and not to call-out a mechanic for bad practice, but with new pumps, it's possible they ran dry too long, which caused eventual overheating, followed by relay failure.

Just thoughts, and as always - research> compile info/data> analyze> hypothesize> then formulate your own opinion (or conduct your own experiment)

Mackhack

I don’t know what they did and how they did it but it’s quiet concerning what I have discovered so far. But you’re correct about the dry run. Especially with these pumps. They get cooled down by the flow-through of the fuel.

It’s not their first hiccup on this car and MBUSA was involved in 6 other repairs where they had damaged stuff on the car while it was there and of course it was never their fault. Once this is through we’re done with them. We do 95% of all the work on our cars ourselves anyways and only go there if it’s unavoidable.

eFifty5AMG

No prime no start situation occurred today. Fuel tank was replaced on 02.19.19 at 104,692 and the car now has 104,849 miles. I started the vehicle this morning & drove directly to the gas station. I filled up & then fuel pumps did not prime-crank no start.
The dealership did not install the fuel system with the adapter harness; but I did install it myself. No visible damage to any of the wires underneath the fuel pump lid. Also has a Flösser 2270 relay for the fuel pumps & the CPS was replaced less than 100 miles ago. Brand new Bosch AGM battery too. After cycling the keys a ton of times, the fuel primed & the 55 did start up eventually. Time to call the dealership again?

Mackhack

Another Escondido fail Our car is there too for a week now. No call no nothing about the status. Worthless grease moneys, worthless service advisors. We should team up against them.

Mackhack

Talked to MB a few minutes ago and they told me MBUSA is fully aware of this mess and dealerships nationwide get complaints about this from customers who’s pumps fail after the warranty replacement was done and MBUSA is supposedly investigating into the problem.

It remains a mystery to me that if they knew from the get go that Pierburg swapped Pins and therefore an adapter harness is needed why this wasn’t added to the Star Bulletin. Furthermore, even in EPC it clearly states for the harness on position 600 this is required of a two pump assembly is used why this isn’t added to the Star Bulletin. Obviously all 211 E55 have a dual pump assembly.

One of their rather disturbing comments was that it seems an awful lot of work to replace the longer harness through the entire car. Well, pay me what MBUSA would pay you to do the work and I’ll do it myself. At least I know then it’s done right. Horrible attitude how they deal with us unimportant customers.

Mackhack

After some 8 weeks the car is back and here are the pictures.



Dual relay wiring harness. Runs from the trunk to the SAM Driver.


Adapter harness to change polarity of the second pump.

eFifty5AMG

Holy s*** what a pain. 8 weeks...I'm just glad to see it's back in your hands.

Mackhack

8 weeks to wait for a decision from MBUSA and 12 hours of labor according to the SA. We’re glad too trust me. After 6 weeks we wanted to get it back and put the harness in ourselves.

mekantor

Going to check mine tonight for this.

Is there a reason to use the adapter as opposed to rearranging wires on the original harness?

Mackhack

Depending on your model year there is more than just the adapter that you need.

tw2

Extreme ease of use.

mekantor

Confirmed I have this issue, and have had it for a few years. I hope the motor isn't damaged now, given my idle issues. I'm trying to swap the 2 wires now.

Mackhack

Before you do that, have you checked the part numbers of your pump assembly? Did you get a new tank and pumps through the extended warranty?

mekantor

Yes I confirmed the part number. It was done through the extended recall. I thought the sender was making an odd noise a while back and emailed the SA about it, he told me warranty on the work was a year and I was past it.

I swapped the wires. Seems to run the same, which is not well. I was going to hook up a fuel pressure guage but the one I've got wont fit. Leakdown test tomorrow as the engine is too hot now.