Supercharger snout plug leaking air?
10-18-2017, 07:50 PM
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 1,116
Received 78 Likes
on
68 Posts
05 E55, 98 CLK320
Supercharger snout plug leaking air?
Had the car smoke tested today, that little black plug is loose and it looked like it was leaking smoke.
Coincidentally I have these codes
I replaced the plug with a new one and it made no difference, so it would have to be the housing which I don't know how to find.
Would I have to replace the whole supercharger snout?
Why can't I just glue this plug back in place...?
10-20-2017, 08:32 AM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 1,116
Received 78 Likes
on
68 Posts
05 E55, 98 CLK320
Didn't try. I tried a new one but it was wobbling. I will try to silicone it in place. Currently I have bigger fish to fry with this tick that's popped up, I think it's a header leak.
03-18-2018, 02:23 PM
#5
Junior Member
That plug you can't get from MB, I pulled the blower off mine. Its a tapered bore once you completely remove that plug and the sleeve. I measured it and pressed a freeze plug into it with some mb black. Wanted to tap the hole and screw a stop plug into it. Couldnt find a tap that big in the time constraints. The freeze plug worked perfectly fine and looks ok. Car has been driven 20,000 miles since and LTFT is perfect. That plug is for a block off, the non sbc cars that is the vacuum supply for the brake booster. its a plastic plug that has two o rings and slides into the pressed in sleeve. They are know to leak at the rubber o rings get old and deteriorate.
The following users liked this post:
MACEDON (03-19-2018)
03-22-2018, 10:42 AM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 1,116
Received 78 Likes
on
68 Posts
05 E55, 98 CLK320
It turned out that my codes were solved by resetting the ECU (unplug main battery for 30 minutes) this reset the fuel trims and solved the issue.
Unmetered air would probably result in loss of power.
Unmetered air would probably result in loss of power.
Trending Topics
03-22-2018, 11:06 PM
#8
Junior Member
Mine, the leak was bad enough that vehicle did not want to idle and was misfiring. Ended up fouling out the spark plugs and was super rich and smoked.
03-23-2018, 04:27 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 1,116
Received 78 Likes
on
68 Posts
05 E55, 98 CLK320
That is not a fix, once the sensor rotor adaptation learning process is complete the vacuum leak will show up again because it will see the unmetered air.
Mine, the leak was bad enough that vehicle did not want to idle and was misfiring. Ended up fouling out the spark plugs and was super rich and smoked.
Mine, the leak was bad enough that vehicle did not want to idle and was misfiring. Ended up fouling out the spark plugs and was super rich and smoked.
I upgraded my headers to mid length, and installed a tune for the headers. This did not play well with the LTFT's apparently, becaues the Eurocharged tune didn't actually delete all adaptations with the tune upload.
So it kept throwing a CEL. Seanol from this forum suggested that I reset the ECU with trunk battery disconnect for 30 minutes and it worked! So now I disconnect the battery with every oil change as a part of my maintenance to let the car readapt to every component as it ages.
Sensors have loose accuracy as they age, why should you let adaptations with different tolerances govern? Let the car readjust to its new body.
03-25-2018, 09:05 PM
#10
Junior Member
My point was that the codes were not due to unmetered air, but rather due to long term fuel trims being offset.
I upgraded my headers to mid length, and installed a tune for the headers. This did not play well with the LTFT's apparently, becaues the Eurocharged tune didn't actually delete all adaptations with the tune upload.
So it kept throwing a CEL. Seanol from this forum suggested that I reset the ECU with trunk battery disconnect for 30 minutes and it worked! So now I disconnect the battery with every oil change as a part of my maintenance to let the car readapt to every component as it ages.
Sensors have loose accuracy as they age, why should you let adaptations with different tolerances govern? Let the car readjust to its new body.
I upgraded my headers to mid length, and installed a tune for the headers. This did not play well with the LTFT's apparently, becaues the Eurocharged tune didn't actually delete all adaptations with the tune upload.
So it kept throwing a CEL. Seanol from this forum suggested that I reset the ECU with trunk battery disconnect for 30 minutes and it worked! So now I disconnect the battery with every oil change as a part of my maintenance to let the car readapt to every component as it ages.
Sensors have loose accuracy as they age, why should you let adaptations with different tolerances govern? Let the car readjust to its new body.
So you said your long term fuel trim is offset, what do you think offset it? The Oxygen sensor code said bank too lean. Oxygen sensors do age, but normally when they do you get a slow response time and a "oxygen sensor aging" code. Oxygen sensors are what helps determine you fuel trim. So at the end of everything you just typed, you still have a problem. You can reset the ECU a 1000x and its gonna keep sending the LTFT lean.
03-26-2018, 05:22 AM
#11
Super Member
Yeah do you really want your car running lean? Left unchecked your issue may get worse and cause damage..
Personally with the age of my 2005 i replaced all ECM sensors preventatively. The computer keeps things in check so supplying it with correct inputs seemed logical to me, spend a little upfront to save on expensive repairs later..
Personally with the age of my 2005 i replaced all ECM sensors preventatively. The computer keeps things in check so supplying it with correct inputs seemed logical to me, spend a little upfront to save on expensive repairs later..
03-26-2018, 12:35 PM
#12
Super Member
In reference to the black plug back there.. There is an o-ring under the cap where that plug goes into. You can replace the o-ring separately, but you just have to be careful not to break anything since the plastic gets very brittle over time. The rubber o-ring basically turns to hard plastic over time and will cause a nice leak.
03-26-2018, 02:18 PM
#13
Have the codes stayed clear for you?
Also it seems that you just made a bunch of peoples heads explode saying you should have reset LTFTs after you performed a bunch of modifications that will affect AFRs.
Also it seems that you just made a bunch of peoples heads explode saying you should have reset LTFTs after you performed a bunch of modifications that will affect AFRs.
03-26-2018, 03:53 PM
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 1,116
Received 78 Likes
on
68 Posts
05 E55, 98 CLK320
The codes have stayed off.
My issue came on after the installation of the mid length headers and the tune for them. Trying to hunt down the issue I came across this leak. I fixed the leak then deleted the codes with Torque but the codes came back.
I reset the ECU and the codes never came back.
I'm not sure what the right approach here is....
My issue came on after the installation of the mid length headers and the tune for them. Trying to hunt down the issue I came across this leak. I fixed the leak then deleted the codes with Torque but the codes came back.
I reset the ECU and the codes never came back.
I'm not sure what the right approach here is....
Last edited by MACEDON; 03-26-2018 at 03:56 PM.
03-26-2018, 06:50 PM
#15
I think you are perfectly right to clear the ECU after large changes. But not necessary on a maintenance basis. LTFTs will adjust on a gradual basis as needed anyways. The problem is when you make big changes and learned LTFTs which normally keep AFR around 14.8 via narrow band in open loop all of a sudden need a bunch of STFT to get back to 14.8.
These folks talking about being lean/rich etc and damaging a motor don't have a great grasp on open vs closed loop :-P
These folks talking about being lean/rich etc and damaging a motor don't have a great grasp on open vs closed loop :-P
03-26-2018, 09:19 PM
#16
Junior Member
I think you are perfectly right to clear the ECU after large changes. But not necessary on a maintenance basis. LTFTs will adjust on a gradual basis as needed anyways. The problem is when you make big changes and learned LTFTs which normally keep AFR around 14.8 via narrow band in open loop all of a sudden need a bunch of STFT to get back to 14.8.
These folks talking about being lean/rich etc and damaging a motor don't have a great grasp on open vs closed loop :-P
These folks talking about being lean/rich etc and damaging a motor don't have a great grasp on open vs closed loop :-P
Actually I have a pretty good understanding of both STFT and LTFT. You can damage a motor in open or closed loop if the vacuum leak is larger enough. At the end of all this I have no problem with anyone resetting fuel trim. But you have to fix the leak first which was my point. Which he did at the very TOP of the post. I just find it amazing that the guy who started this post has all the answers but felt the need to start a post asking for help. My car runs perfect. I am not on here asking for advice. My LTFT stays at 1.01
Done with this BS thread.
03-27-2018, 12:19 PM
#17
Member
So did you end up just using silicone to seal it all up from leaking? Ive noticed mine has a bit of inward and outward movement and i also share the lean codes so this may be my solution!
05-09-2019, 04:28 PM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
This is how I fixed mine: https://stumptownbenz.com/simple-plu...r-vacuum-port/
The following users liked this post:
05-E55 (05-14-2019)
05-14-2019, 07:42 PM
#22
This is how I fixed mine: https://stumptownbenz.com/simple-plu...r-vacuum-port/
05-14-2019, 07:46 PM
#23
Super Member
Heres an easy way to do it in car remove the tb and the when u have access to the black plug simply pry it out once.u have it you can hollow.out the inside an fill with 8000 psi plastic epoxy and let dry and the simply reinstall. Mines been leak free like this for over a year.
The following users liked this post:
05-E55 (05-14-2019)
05-14-2019, 07:56 PM
#25
Heres an easy way to do it in car remove the tb and the when u have access to the black plug simply pry it out once.u have it you can hollow.out the inside an fill with 8000 psi plastic epoxy and let dry and the simply reinstall. Mines been leak free like this for over a year.
