So I have been thinking that my car needed a few more cooling mods .... first thing to me is get the best pump I could get in there. My car came with an 010 bosch and its been doing fine and in even bought a brand new 010 but when i took it apart found i already had one in there. So i started doing my research and seemed that there were a couple pumps that came up when people were talking bout best. First was then VRP superflo CWA100 by pierburg, I also read Meziere but didnt like the install problems with that one and then the other is the new lingerfelter Stewart EMP which looks great but overkill and pricey and lookslike a PITA to get to fit properly. So talked to Phil at VRP and got the superflo coming as well as an ELM so i could monitor IAT, and a new AEM wideband since my old one took a dump.

Got all of it this morning .... before setting out to change out the pump I hooked up the ELM OBD and downloaded dash command to see what my cruising IATs were and what they did under WOT. So under cruising on a 67 degree day i was hitting 32 to 34 C cruising round and went up too 49 under WOT when i went to redline. Which in F comes out to cruising 88 to 90 degrees and WOT was 120 by redline recovery wasnt too bad with the 010.

Took it home and got to work I was a bit surprised at how small the pump was ... its a lil fatter than the bosch but not as long. VRP includes a nice pigtail and mounting bracket .... when I talked to Phil asking how it was suppose to mount he was saying to use the 10mm nut and stud on the bottom and use some self tapping screws. Well I was about to do that when I noticed the notch in the top when the old one slid in would fit perfect if i cut a small section off the top of the bracket and as I thought it went in perfectly and the 10mm locked it down solid no wiggling at all. Got it all wired up and put everything back and set about to bleed first thing I noticed was how much stronger the thing fliows compared to the bosch .... WOW! I mean I could water my lawn with how hard this thing sprays the bosch did ok but was only a steady stream when the line was clamped and the bleed tube was its only outlet .... the minute i clamped the line with the superflo .... the line literally SHOT out of the coolant can lol. Got all the air bleed and back out too the same stretch of road takes bout 15mins to get there so was back to operating temp by the time i got there.

Outside temp was a bit warmer at 68 degrees but iat was showing 25 to 26 C crusing and same day same road WOT stab the temp didnt go any higher than 38 C that equates too 77 to 79 cruising and WOT was 100 degrees to me thats a HELL of an improvement from just a pump change. An yes the bosch was working perfectly and it was just bleed a few days ago when I had to remove my supercharger to helicoil the holes on the 82mm adaptor cus being aluminum it didnt like me tightening excessively haha. Recovery was equally impressive coming down almost immediately next on the list will be the underhood 2.5 gallon tank.

Highly recommend anyone considering doing a new pump to look at the superflo, especially if running smaller pulley talk to Phil at VRP hes always done a very good job for me and always come through with fast shipping, fair prices, and quality parts. But im not taking anything away from the bosch 010 its still a great pump as well for stock or slightly modded

 

Nice writeup. Now you've got me thinking about doing this.

 

Thanks for posting your results.
It's important to know what HE you are using? Stock or aftermarket?

 

Im using the VRP heat exchanger it was in with the bosch

 

Same. And I just have an 83mm pulley along with long tubes. I might see what this + their underhood tank can do for my IATs before I try water-meth.

Thanks for posting this, OP.

Edit: Oh and for what it's worth, my IATs at the end of the 1/4-mile (over 121 mph) on a practically brand new 010 pump (less than 100-200 miles on it) were consistently right under 140' F (60-65' F ambient). This was the case regardless of my starting IATs (anywhere from 100' F to 116' F). If the CWA100 can keep my trap IATs near the 120 mark in similar weather, that'd be amazing. From what I've seen on my own car, that's probably good for a 2 mph bump in traps.

 

I literally just swapped out my 010 dated 2005 with a new 2017 010. Good to see they’re reliable as the IATs are the same. But I wish this thread came up sooner because now I want the VRP.

 

Yeah ill be getting the underhood tank soon as well

 

Is this with split cooling or stock setup?

 

Magic post with results. That's definitely a worthy upgrade and I would say with those results better than a heat exchanger upgrade, although maybe it's your combo that's working so well... Regardless impressive results. So you have the vrp h/x and what about pulley combo?

 

I do not have split cooling on the car yet ill be doin that with the underhood kit. I have the lil bmw reservoir kit but didnt want to go that route.

Magic ... C32??? Nothing magic about it whatever happened it just plain worked i cant explain it anymore than that. I am not affiliated, sponsored, or otherwise compensated by VRP. Just the guy has done a good job with what ive gotten from him. These are my results an this was all on same day ... same road .... an like i said according to my dash readout slightly warmer with the new pump.

I have the vrp heat exchanger, vrp superflo, and i bleed it perfectly. So far its working great my mods are in my sig

 

OK mate, operating off my phone, garage talk app so can't see your sig, if I could read it obviously I wouldn't ask such a stupid ques.. Anyway, glad it worked out well for you. Quite an expensive pump Amazed more people havnt gone with it with those results.

 

Sorry didnt know it didnt show the sig when on phone i have a 85mm tb, 76mm pulley, bwk, race iq ecu an ec tcu.

As for if it was a blockage i cleared out ... or the bosch was startin to go bad ... or something else i dont know but i can say it does work well .... it is a bit pricey but it does work. I did for testing sake hook up the brand new bosch an run the bleed test to see if it was any stronger than the used bosch 010 tht was in but it was exactly the same it seemed

 

Probably has to do with the cost of the CWA100 being 3-4x's the cost of an 010 (or being equal to the cost of a water-meth kit) along with it needing custom mounting and custom wiring since it draws almost twice the current of the 010. There are threads on here dating back to 2011 that talk about this pump, but like most threads on here about cooling or performance mod, they just ended without any real-world, empirical for/against data.

 

Awesome results!

 

Thats why I chose to do a back to back test and do so on the same day, on the same road, and make sure the test had as close to the same parameters. The wiring was super easy to do and the mounting was insanely easy. It comes with a custom bracket .... and theres a 10mm stud for the bosch and I called phil to see how he mounts the pump and he said use the 10mm and then self tapping screws for the top and I started to look at it all. I noticed that the top of the stock bracket slips into a slot on the top and then it slids onto the 10mm stud so I looked at the bracket that came with the new pump. So i modified the top of it by trimming it just a bit and what do you know slips right in to the slot and tightened onto the 10mm stud as well perfectly. But it doesnt move, its solid and only had to modify the front hose as the pump is a lil shorter so had to put on a new hose going to the heat exchanger.

I agree the pump is expensive and a meth kit is bout the same and i will be doing that as well soon but why not have the best pump i can get as well. As for the amperage draw seems to only 7.5 amps not to bad really so im not complaining.

 

Been using a cwa100 for over a year now on the stock wiring tested it and measured the current draw and it never went over 7 or so amps. These pumps dont draw that much current but of course if your after peace of mind putting in a relay and such wouldnt hurt.

As said in the thread this is about as good as it gets atm for a semi affordable pump solution.
Its basically like upgrading our intercooler system to be as close as possible to inline with the current machines that are coming out bar the crap intercooler that we are stuck with.

 

Hi,

Can you please explain in a little more detail the length of your WOT run and did you do back to back runs? My system is the 010 with a 77mm, headers, split cooling and an eurocharged HE. I can make a few hard pulls from a stop or close enough up to the top of third then temps all go to **** and take too long to recover in my opinion.. usually first pull peaks at say 48c next at 58c then maybe third at 68c on a 20-25c day

 

Well i did 2 1st through top of 2nd gear pulls back to back on both pumps .... where i have to test em top of 2nd is already way above legal speeds where i live .... with the 010 pump it got a good bit hotter between the 2 back to back pulls but the superflo had almost no difference maybe a couple degrees but nothing much .... the recovery was way better with it.

 

Very interesting, thanks for the results. I am another one who has a pretty new 010, now wondering....
Of course I do very few pulls back to back.

 

First through top of second gear is not really pushing any coolant system that hard I believe, it's just over with so quick. I now have a better understanding of your lower Temps. With that said though, even with the shorter runs you still saw and had better results even cruising. I tend to run mine longer to really stress the system.

 

The stock pump circuit is relayed already. I would just be concerned about degrading the insulation of the factory wiring over time with the increased current and heat. I think the wiring is pretty small, if it's 18awg its possible that 7 amps is right at the max rating for it. Not sure about the wire size or rating though, just speculation.

 

While i agree first is over very quickly but hell top of 2nd im goin dam near 90 on a backroad out nowhere rated at 25 mph .... n yes it goes by quickly as well but i dont have a place other than a track ... which are closed for the season n dyno which doesnt represent real world .... where i can go 150mph+

While its not the best test it is an improvement n if it improves a 1st through 2nd run back to back with almost no delay in recovery than I'm sure it will improve a 3rd gear or 4th gear run just as well. Improvements dont just stop cus u switched a gear. True 3rd n 4th tax the system more but only cause of the time it takes to get to redline. The engine doesnt know what gear its in still has to go through same rev range. But i do understand what your sayin

 

Ok c32 just for you i decided to do some more testing ..... first thing i did is go out an do another bleed just to make sure i got all bubbles out .... found a few more kept doing it for 7 mins just to make sure.

Went out and bought torque pro cause i heard its a bit better than dash command. It also reads in F not C so that helps i didnt have to do any conversions.

Went out its a balmy 49 to 50 degrees today in good ole Utah and cruising i was hitting a high of 62.7 degrees an low of 57.6 degrees F thats less than 10 degrees above ambient in the low an just over on the high .... not bad.

Found a small stretch of onramp that allowed a full WOT too just shy of top of 3rd an over 135mph!! By the time i shutdown my high IAT was just over 87 degrees i pulled off next exit which was just a 1/4 mile away an temps were already 69. Got right back on an hit 130 MPH going up the on ramp an my IAT was 89.3 F ..... id say thats pretty dam good for just a superflo, VRP heat exchanger, an 76mm pulley no split cooling, no meth, no trunk or underhood tank. But both underhood tank and meth are coming as well as MBH headers an mid pipe.

Also waiting for my updated tune from tony as im still pretty rich.

 

What's your AFR reading at the top of each gear at those temps?

 

Right now hittin 10.6 want it closer to round 11.8 still on the safe rich side but not too rich.