Correct Jack point on oil pan for motor mount replacement
#1
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2008, Mercedes ML350, 2003 Mercedes Benz ML55 AMG, 2005 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG Modified
Correct Jack point on oil pan for motor mount replacement
I'm being extremely cautious with my 2005 E55. I'm about to replace a failed motor mount on driver's side (failed after 1 1/2 yr only).
I'm looking for the correct jack point on the oil pan. I have attached a drawing of where I suspect I need to place my 2x4 wood piece, am I right?
Also, will I have to loosen the opposite side mount or is there enough play that I can do only the side I actually need to replace?
I'm looking for the correct jack point on the oil pan. I have attached a drawing of where I suspect I need to place my 2x4 wood piece, am I right?
Also, will I have to loosen the opposite side mount or is there enough play that I can do only the side I actually need to replace?
#2
That was how I did it, using a 2 x 6. Make sure the wood piece is long enough to spread the pressure over the whole area, but not too long to get in the way of other parts. I used a hand crank scissor jack to lift incrementally on the engine. Also, the twenty or so minutes it takes to drop the exhaust is well worth it in my opinion. You will have direct access to the mounts with the headers out of the way. I hope it goes well for you.
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AMG4FUN (11-22-2017)
#3
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2008, Mercedes ML350, 2003 Mercedes Benz ML55 AMG, 2005 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG Modified
Perfect. Thanks. Just making sure I don't create more work than necessary. I have the exhaust off and headers out, as they need repairs as well.
#4
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That was how I did it, using a 2 x 6. Make sure the wood piece is long enough to spread the pressure over the whole area, but not too long to get in the way of other parts. I used a hand crank scissor jack to lift incrementally on the engine. Also, the twenty or so minutes it takes to drop the exhaust is well worth it in my opinion. You will have direct access to the mounts with the headers out of the way. I hope it goes well for you.
#5
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Loosen both to raise it, mainly so when you set it down, it centers and doesn't pre-load the mounts sideways, that's what causes them to fail.
There's actually a procedure called "release tension in powertrain mountings", which involves loosening all 3 points and lifting the engine/trans and allowing it to settle down in the natural center, then tightening it all back down. Believe it or not, it will cure some powertrain vibrations from production tolerance errors.
There's actually a procedure called "release tension in powertrain mountings", which involves loosening all 3 points and lifting the engine/trans and allowing it to settle down in the natural center, then tightening it all back down. Believe it or not, it will cure some powertrain vibrations from production tolerance errors.
#6
Junior Member
After de-tensioning the powertrain, you should de-tension the exhaust system. Loosen the 2 nuts on each exhaust bracket next to the transmission, loosen the 2 bolts that mount the 2 brackets in front of the trans mount (on trans) and loosen the 2 nuts at the exhaust hanger under the differential. Any "Tension" in the exhaust system will be relieved. Slide the front brackets side to side until they line up flush with the exhaust pipes. Tighten the 2 slider bolts on the trans. Next, flex the 2 brackets up and down and let them stop in their natural position then tighten the 2 nuts on each bracket. Finally at the rear of the car, slide the bracket side to side until it rests in it's natural position and tighten the 2 nuts. Done! It's amazing how much smoother the engine will feel inside the car after completing these 2 procedures.
ALSO, to go along with the powertrain tension release, while the 2 bolts from the trans mount to the crossmember are loose and the rear of the trans is supported and very slightly raised, loosen the 6 crossmember to body bolts. With the bolts loose, shift and pivot the crossmember side to side and front to back until it is not making contact with any of the 6 bolts. Tighten the 6 bolts, lower the trans and tighten the last 2 bolts to the trans. This will also help minimize vibrations transmitted from the driveline to the body.
ALSO, to go along with the powertrain tension release, while the 2 bolts from the trans mount to the crossmember are loose and the rear of the trans is supported and very slightly raised, loosen the 6 crossmember to body bolts. With the bolts loose, shift and pivot the crossmember side to side and front to back until it is not making contact with any of the 6 bolts. Tighten the 6 bolts, lower the trans and tighten the last 2 bolts to the trans. This will also help minimize vibrations transmitted from the driveline to the body.