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I am lukewarm on these arms. I love the design, but the execution was a little lacking. My set came with bushings that were dry, even though the seller swore they were greased. They were not. When I pulled them out of the arm to grease them, this is what they looked like:
I asked the seller if he could send me a set of bushings that were cut straight and he said not to worry about it; they'll be fine. Yeah, the will probably be OK, but if I owned a fabrication shop something like this would never make it out the door.
If you get a set, make sure you check the bushings before you install them. Or better yet, just have your lower control arm mounting point slotted so you can pull the bottom of the tire inboard, then tack-weld the washer after the alignment is done. Then you don't need to buy any fancy arms that will probably wear out in a year or two.
I slotted my subframe, but didn't weld the washers. It's been a year, maybe two. No problems. Same front tires are still going.
I wanted to weld a bolt to the washers to make adjusters like a motorcycle back wheel, but I never got around to it.
I slotted my subframe, but didn't weld the washers. It's been a year, maybe two. No problems. Same front tires are still going.
I wanted to weld a bolt to the washers to make adjusters like a motorcycle back wheel, but I never got around to it.
This is cool.
Just manual drill-slotting by hand? You know what we should do, right? Mock up some drawing for me to play with.
All it takes is a die grinder with a carbide bit and about 10 minutes per side.
RE: drawings - I meant about the offset washer+bolt idea. I had an idea to mill the offset "washer" and slot the factory bolt, then welding on a edge-lip like he mentioned.
But I should be focusing on rear camber first anyways.
I also had the rear lowers slotted for reduced negative camber. Same process.
The metal core within the subframe bushings?
I always wondered why the rear LCA come slotted and notched like they do (on the non-airmatic design, E350).
I'm guessing as side impact absorption, it would break the in-slot locating triangles and give the wheel an inch of travel before sending the force through the rest of the design. Saw in the even if sliding into a curb.
I always wondered why the rear LCA come slotted and notched like they do (on the non-airmatic design, E350).
I'm guessing as side impact absorption, it would break the in-slot locating triangles and give the wheel an inch of travel before sending the force through the rest of the design. Saw in the even if sliding into a curb.
Ok, this is going to be long winded, so bear with me....
The process of slotting the frame is the same for the front and rear. Simply remove the inboard lower control arm bolts, drop the arm out of the way, and then use a die grinder to slot the frame holes more "inboard". Then re-assemble and tack weld the washers after the camber is where you want it. Now you have effectively moved the frame hole inboard.
Now, as for the bushing design, the oval holes with the little tabs inside are designed so they can be bolted in three different positions. The factory position uses a regular bolt that will only fit right through the middle of the oval. If you use a bolt that has offset flutes along the shank, you can slide that bolt through the bushing along either end of the oval. That's how you adjust the camber +/- the factory position.
Ok, this is going to be long winded, so bear with me....
The process of slotting the frame is the same for the front and rear. Simply remove the inboard lower control arm bolts, drop the arm out of the way, and then use a die grinder to slot the frame holes more "inboard". Then re-assemble and tack weld the washers after the camber is where you want it. Now you have effectively moved the frame hole inboard.
Now, as for the bushing design, the oval holes with the little tabs inside are designed so they can be bolted in three different positions. The factory position uses a regular bolt that will only fit right through the middle of the oval. If you use a bolt that has offset flutes along the shank, you can slide that bolt through the bushing along either end of the oval. That's how you adjust the camber +/- the factory position.
Make sense?
Yup, but I was talking about the rear control arm slot, not the subframe.
Yup, but I was talking about the rear control arm slot, not the subframe.
Doh! You're right. It's been too long since I did this. :-)
Yeah, the rear is different than the front. On the rear you slot the arms (by grinding out the little "peaks", thus creating an oval) On the front you slot the frame.
RE: drawings - I meant about the offset washer+bolt idea. I had an idea to mill the offset "washer" and slot the factory bolt, then welding on a edge-lip like he mentioned.
But I should be focusing on rear camber first anyways.
My KX500 has adjusters like this, but what I meant was the earlier designs that were basically a small piece of threaded rod attached to a washer. As you tighten a nut on the rod it draws the washer (and axle) toward the rear of the bike. This gives you a lot of "leverage" and fine adjustability. A nut on each side of a tab allows you to go either direction. Idiots would over tighten their chain with this design, but it would work perfect here.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; 05-05-2018 at 06:46 AM.
My KX500 has adjusters like this, but what I meant was the earlier designs that were basically a small piece of threaded rod attached to a washer. As you tighten a nut on the rod it draws the washer (and axle) toward the rear of the bike. This gives you a lot of "leverage" and fine adjustability. A nut on each side of a tab allows you to go either direction. Idiots would over tighten there chain with this design, but it would work perfect here.
05-02-2018 | 04:16 PM
