I have a 2006 E55 AMG with 75,000 miles and want to change all the fluids. Should I have a transmission fluid flush or is it OK to do a transmission fluid change (with filter change)? I can do a fluid change but not sure how much more difficult will it be to do a fluid flush. Are there any instructions on doing a flush?

 

WIS describes how to do a full fluid change. You will need about 13L and disconnect the transmission coolant line from the front and intermittently start the engine and add more fluid.

I just do fluid pan changes more frequently and my filter is new. I have lower mileage though. Also replace the electrical connector to the TCU.

 

If it's the original fluid at that mileage, I would recommend a full fluid change as already described (drop pan, replace filter and gasket, refill fluid, disconnect cooler line, start, shut off, top off, repeat the previous 3 steps 3-4 times). See WIS for specifics. Make sure you (or whoever does it) uses the correct MB transmission fluid. Generic aftermarket fluid (ie. whatever they have in the "flush machine" at your local shop) is NOT an acceptable substitute (although many shops will tell you it's fine).

If you don't want to go through the hassle of the full change, just do a few partial changes (ie. drain and refill) over the next year or so.

Just to clarify the previous post, you'll want to replace the connector at the valve body/conductor plate, not the connector directly at the TCU (the TCU is under the passenger side carpet). Most dealer parts personnel will probably know of it as a "pilot bushing" (that's what Mercedes calls it, not sure why...).

 

Thanks. A full flush is what I thought that I should do. I have stored codes of P2560, P2561, and P2069. There are currently no codes. Should I also replace the Conductor plate and the transmission connector?

BTW - You all are great and so very knowledgeable, I know generally what I should do but not all the details.

 

The pilot bushing is cheap so definitely do that one. I wouldn't replace the conductor plate until you're having problems. I believe your transmission still uses ATF 134 which you can get from a shell distributor. I paid around $60 for a case of 12 quarts. The MB stuff can be over $20 a quart.

https://www.shell.us/business-custom...r-locator.html

Check each distributor in your state as it only lists headquarters and each distributor may have multiple locations.

 

This is the one you really don't want
P2561 THE GEAR IS IMPLAUSIBLE OR THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING 2.GEAR

I would check the TCU under the carpet in the foot well, it is on the left side of my car (RHD). It could be fluid has indeed gone into the unit (it wicks up the wiring), or it could be transmission fluid level (easily checked), or conductor plate (~$200 and a messy DIY in a very clean kind of way) or the possibility which makes you not want this is worn friction plates in your clutch pack which means transmission rebuild.

 

Pilot bushing https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...or/2035400253/
I think mercedes revised this half a dozen times. Original ones have clear o-rings from memory.

 

Do you think that I should also change out the conductor plate since I will be in there anyway?

 

I did on my old car. Unfortunately needed a rebuild anyway. Get a STAR scan to find out for sure. They can tell you the lockup times and generally how healthy the transmission is. If that is normal then yes conductor plate.

 

Thanx for the info

 

Well, as I complete the job, finally, I have found that the Torque bolts do have the black gasket maker on them to avoid some leakage. Sorry if I confused anyone. The Mercedes black gasket maker is something that I never used before and it cures as a rubber like material.

Sorry again. I am learning every day.

 

FWIW.... My 2006 E-55 went from clunky shifting to slipping rather badly for one of those alarming trips home in heavy rain years ago.

Yup... The dreaded 'implausible ratios' code among others.

I took a deep breath and..... Changed fluid and filter.

All issues resolved with fresh fluid and filter.

I drain and fill my five speed boxes every other engine oil change. Fluid is cheap and they always shift better with fresh fluid.

 

I have got well over 300,000 miles on the original transmissions on more than a few cars (all W211's)
with nothing more than pan drop and filter change (OEM filter and Shell ATF134)
no need for full flush.. my wifes old E320 had 343K when we sold it and trans was still fine. we sold due to SBC problems.

Cheers

 

A good idea for those with mileage and concerns:
Drain the transmission from the plug. Add 4-5 quarts and drive.
5k miles later do a filter swap. add 4-5 quarts.
from this point the fluid should start to have a nice pink color.
Keep up with changing the fluid semi periodically for a strong healthy future.

my 2 cents, Gator

 

FWIW - I have always changed the ATF about every 15k miles. If you have been using standard ATF 134 I highly recommend switching to Fuchs 4134. You will notice an improvement in performance by way of firmer shifts (this improvement is not limited to only 722's, but to other versions as well).

 

Dumb question, where do you add fluid after removal?

 

Not dumb; multiple members have drained the transmission fluid only to add 8-9 quarts of ATF to the engine. On one of the other sub-forums, it happened at an oil change place and the guy's transmission was toast.

On an E55, remove the air filters/TB intake assembly. You'll find the transmission fill tube in back of the engine and below the throttle body towards the passenger side. Do NOT use the tube in front of the throttle body and visible with air filters installed. The transmission filler tube is behind the engine and below the throttle body.

 

I made a tube with a funnel to fit behind the airbox assembly. I don't remove anything to get to it but it is hidden and hard to access.

 

On the E63, it's slightly different as we don't have a filled tube on top of the transmission like the E55. Our transmission fluid is pumped into the exact hole, that you drain the old fluid from until it's full. It's a process.

 

Adding to this thread. Did a "flush" at a dealer in my W221 (722.9) and caused gears to slip. Ended up taking the solenoids out, cleaning, and replacing. In my W211s (722.6) I have always dropped and replaced. My CDI has 300k miles and is my DD.

 

I have 63,000 miles on my 2006 E55. What do you guys recommend I do?

Also, is it recommended to change the differential fluid as well?

 

Service the transmission. Fluid and filter.
Fresh gear oil for the differential.
Fresh brake fluid.
Change oil in supercharger.
They are a fantastic car.... Drive it more!

 

Senior Leigh on YouTube posted an excellent video on 7G-Tronic 722.9 oil change including torque converter drain.

He posts on this site usually in the Tech section.

 

Also, if you have any rust on your pan which is common over 100k miles, you should replace the pan. Below is a parts list for a 2012 S550 4-matic which I am in the process of changing this week. Total about $400. My MB dealer wanted $950 (includes replacing the pan). And I am not 100% sure they will flush the torque converter which I plan to do.

parts list for 2012 S550 transmission fluid/filter change

 

Why would someone need to replace the pan, when it could be simply sanded down and repainted. Paying roughly $12 is more ch cheaper than paying several hundred for a new pan.