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Our polyurethane isolators are processed at Creative Steel using the highest quality products. This allows us to maintain quality and consistency from batch to batch as well as enabling us to create complex polyurethane designs for each specific product.
Check them out here - https://creative-steel.com/product-c...06-w211-m113k/
Last edited by Creative Steel; May 28, 2018 at 06:36 PM.
It is a little contradictory so I will explain. Most OEM engine mounts will sag within months and many people are seeing them completely destroyed within a year. Many owners are used to the idea of replacing engine mounts every two years or less. Even Mercedes calls the engine mounts a “maintenance item”.
Polyurethane is a very neat material but is not magic. It will break down over time and will need to be replaced. The time frame on this however is still unknown with so many factors. We do know that you will see at least five years with the street (black) and even longer with the race (red).
Also some people are on the fence about getting either the black or the red and with this they can buy both and decide which they prefer.
We have engine mounts for other other platforms that are still in use today more then 10 years later. We are new to the Mercedes cars but not new to any of these type of products.
Last edited by Creative Steel; May 28, 2018 at 10:01 AM.
I have stock mounts filled with poly. At idle it vibrates a bit, under acceleration it vibrates a bit. But honestly I have forgotten about it, and imho it's not something that ruins the car. I'm interested in how the tranny mount would feel but I daily my car and never take it to a track so why even bother.
The benifit of the transmission mount would be to alleviate the sagging factory transmission mount. When a transmission mount sags it throws off the driveshaft angles and starts wearing the flex couplers and you may get vibration.
There is a slight vibration at an idle but it goes away as soon as you start rolling. Our engine mounts are smaller in diameter then a factory mount and sit the same height as a brand new set of mounts with the engine weight on them.
Thank you. What type of mileage are people typically getting out of engine and trans mounts?
The Mercedes mounts are a fairly new product for us so the longevity of these exact product is not too long. However we have been selling a very similar design for Cadillac vehicles for about 8 years now and they are still going strong.
Hi Create-Steel, I have a question about your poly mounts for the s500. Im getting fore-aft movement in my tranny in my 06 s500. It is causing my shifter to be pushed by the shift-rod from D to N. Have you seen this happen? My mounts are about 1 years old. I did the engine and trans mount at the same time with Lemforders.
During hard acceleration or when I am on a steep hill accelerating, the weight of the engine/transmission will push the shift rod to push the lever from D to N momentarily. This causes a temporary cut in power. The only way I can continue driving is if i hold down the lever with my hand when I am on a hill. I have already adjusted the shift rod twice, but I am still getting the movement. I cannot be the only one experiencing this right? I am suspecting the mounts because when I place my fingers inside the shift-gate in between the lever, I can feel movement when the car brakes and accelerates.
I will be ordering your trans mount to see if this fixes the problem.
I hope it does, its my wifes daily driver.
We have never heard of the problem that you are describing however I do believe you are on the right path. Engine mounts and trans mount should keep the engine from moving.
Got the mounts installed today. Easy install. Good quality
I’m impressed with the build quality. First off, the problem with my car shifting out of drive was because the tranny mounts We’re actually loose. Both the bolts installed were backed out. This caused the forward back motion of the tranny that pushed the shift rod to change my gear under load.
I tightened the bolt and went for a drive. There was still some movement in the shifter when I accelerated. I put the car back in the air and installed the creative steel mounts. The movement of the shift lever decreased by about 80%. There’s a little movement, but I don’t believe this will be enough to shift my gears! I’ll go for some hard pulls to see if it pops out of gear. Thanks @creativesteel for shipping the mounts so fast. I love Bolts have backed out loctite installed for the poly mounts
that it’s made in USA.
Took it out for some hard pulls and the engine jerked enough to slip the tranny into neutral, jerking the car forward during the pull. I went under the car to adjust the shift Rodman saw that the poly mount was not installed straight. It was twisted. I might have tightened them while the trans was still supported. I loosened the mount from the bottom, and it popped back straight - aligned. Will do some pulls tomo to see if adjusting the shift rod(made it shorter) , and untwisting the poly mounts does the trick.
I’m tired of holding my hand on the shifter, worries the car may slip into neutral.
Took it out for some hard pulls and the engine jerked enough to slip the tranny into neutral, jerking the car forward during the pull. I went under the car to adjust the shift Rodman saw that the poly mount was not installed straight. It was twisted. I might have tightened them while the trans was still supported. I loosened the mount from the bottom, and it popped back straight - aligned. Will do some pulls tomo to see if adjusting the shift rod(made it shorter) , and untwisting the poly mounts does the trick.
I’m tired of holding my hand on the shifter, worries the car may slip into neutral.
Took it out this morning for some hard pulls. All is good! After resetting the poly bushing the shifter doesnt move at all. Pulls hard, shifts hard, and no jerks.
I may do the tranny fluid again, maybe after 10k miles. I can really smell the clutch materials in the fluid when the car jerks in and out of D so violently.
Here's what I learned:
symptoms:
Hard jerking when accelerating med-hard.
Hard jerking / lurching when accelerating from a med-steep hill
Shift lever creeps towards the front of the car when accelerating
shift lever creeps towards the rear of the car when braking.
Cause:
Engine and transmission is jerking, pushing on the shift-rod, pushing the gear selector briefly from D to N.
This is caused by any of the following:
1. engine transmission bushings bad
2. rear sub frame mount torn or badly worn
3. shfiter rod needs to be adjusted. (maybe you installed a new shifter unit like i did )
Fix:
For me, I did the engine trans mounts less than a year ago. I inspected the subframe mounts and they are all tight. I adjusted the shift rod under the car, on top of the drive shaft. I made it shorter, which angles the shift selector more towards the rear of the car. This helped a little bit, but during really hard acceleration, it still failed.
I inspected the trans bushing again and found that the bolts have worked themselves loose. The new mount I installed also had a small tear in it.
I purchased the poly mounts from Creative steel. I installed them incorrectly. I torqued them down with the engine still supported. This caused them to be installed under stress when lowered. When I took it for test drive the problem was worse somehow.
Then I double checked the poly mounts, It was torqued in, but twisted a bit, putting them under stress. I loosened and retorqued the transmission poly mounts AND re-adjusted the shift rod under the car. I made it as short as possible, without binding. I took it out for some hard pulls, and the shift lever does not move at all.
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loctite installed for the poly mounts 
