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Ok so are the fuel filter/pickup/sending unit different on the E55 compared to a E500? I mean I might understand the pump side being different maybe higher flow or something, This is why I ask.
looking at a European parts website for the filters and there is a large difference on price.
E55- part number 2114706494 $571.93
E500 - part number 2114704094 $240.73
so can anyone else tell me the difference. the pickup side doesn't have any pumps in them do they
Last edited by thtguy; 06-05-2018 at 08:05 AM.
Reason: fixed part numbers
Ok so are the fuel filter/pickup/sending unit different on the E55 compared to a E500? I mean I might understand the pump side being different maybe higher flow or something, This is why I ask.
looking at a European parts website for the filters and there is a large difference on price.
E55- part number 21146706494 $571.93
E500 - part number 21146706094 $240.73
so can anyone else tell me the difference. the pickup side doesn't have any pumps in them do they
Are you sure those are the correct part numbers? Googling just takes me straight back to this thread only.
Also interested
The hat on my sending unit cracked, which I sourced a replacement but it's now leaking and building enough fuel pressure. I replaced the internal filter whilst I was in there, it was super cheap.
But problem is I lost the internal black rubber seal and the one that came with the filter is too small.
Sourcing an E55 sending unit in the UK is proving to be a pain, but I can find the E500 one easily. I think it's the same, but need to check part numbers to compare.
Are you sure those are the correct part numbers? Googling just takes me straight back to this thread only.
Also interested
The hat on my sending unit cracked, which I sourced a replacement but it's now leaking and building enough fuel pressure. I replaced the internal filter whilst I was in there, it was super cheap.
But problem is I lost the internal black rubber seal and the one that came with the filter is too small.
Sourcing an E55 sending unit in the UK is proving to be a pain, but I can find the E500 one easily. I think it's the same, but need to check part numbers to compare.
not sure if this will get blocked because the links are FCP Euro. looks like I typed the part numbers wrong... will fix
The E500 uses a single fuel pump. The E55 uses dual fuel pumps. The E55 filter has two feed lines and two return lines. The E500 fuel filter has one feed and one return line.
So E55 owners are paying a few hundred dollars more for a few pieces of plastic...
The E500 uses a single fuel pump. The E55 uses dual fuel pumps. The E55 filter has two feed lines and two return lines. The E500 fuel filter has one feed and one return line.
So E55 owners are paying a few hundred dollars more for a few pieces of plastic...
Thanks bbirdwell... I know I can always count on your to explain the reasoning
Also I am I going to go ahead and build your volt/amp fuel pump tester, and I guess I need to do the relay modification. I changed the Filter back when my relay melted, it was at about 40k miles, but after taking it apart it didn't look bad... well now 7 months and about 10k miles I have another melted relay. pump connector is not "scortched" and fuse in SAM looks fine as well.
What was your final conclusion on the relays? (1) 70A or (3) 30-40A with the relay coming off the SAM powering the other 2 relays that are then powering the pump?
Just a heads up, you don't need an entirely new sending unit.
Creative Steel sells a replace fuel filter to fit inside, or you can just remove the filter altogether and place a -6 AN high flow, inline fuel filter under the car.
Just a heads up, you don't need an entirely new sending unit.
Creative Steel sells a replace fuel filter to fit inside, or you can just remove the filter altogether and place a -6 AN high flow, inline fuel filter under the car.
Thanks! I have been looking all over the web trying to find someone who sold one that wasn't in Latvia. LOL
Thanks bbirdwell... I know I can always count on your to explain the reasoning
Also I am I going to go ahead and build your volt/amp fuel pump tester, and I guess I need to do the relay modification. I changed the Filter back when my relay melted, it was at about 40k miles, but after taking it apart it didn't look bad... well now 7 months and about 10k miles I have another melted relay. pump connector is not "scortched" and fuse in SAM looks fine as well.
What was your final conclusion on the relays? (1) 70A or (3) 30-40A with the relay coming off the SAM powering the other 2 relays that are then powering the pump?
So far, the 70-amp relay is doing well. Less trouble to wire into place, also.
I have a major service coming up in 4,000 miles so my car will probably be down for two weekends in a row. I'll take a final measurement on the fuel pump amperage draw plus pull the panel in the trunk and inspect the 70-amp relay.
Reference the volt/amp testing device. I made mine using the adapter cable that swaps pins 2 & 3. Since the adapter cable is already installed inline with the new 00-00 fuel pumps, that means one of the pumps will be reversed when the test device is inserted into the circuit (you can tell as one pump reads 12 amps and the other reads 3 amps). So, either remove the adapter cable from the harness temporarily when using the test device, or internally reverse the test device's cable wires for pins 1 & 2 when wiring the test device. i.e. swap pins 1 & 2 at one connector or, cut and connect the striped wire (the 1 to 2 switcheroo) to the calibrated resistor and and connect the meter's red lead to the non-striped wire. This way you only have one polarity reversal in the circuit and not two like I did.
Just a heads up, you don't need an entirely new sending unit.
Creative Steel sells a replace fuel filter to fit inside, or you can just remove the filter altogether and place a -6 AN high flow, inline fuel filter under the car.
I just ordered one. I'll give it a try on the next service (should be fun attempting to open the fuel filter). The company states the filter they sell has a smaller mesh so the filter will need to be replaced more often; I'll keep on verifying amperage draw of the pumps every 10,000 miles using my volt/amp test device.
So far, the 70-amp relay is doing well. Less trouble to wire into place, also.
I have a major service coming up in 4,000 miles so my car will probably be down for two weekends in a row. I'll take a final measurement on the fuel pump amperage draw plus pull the panel in the trunk and inspect the 70-amp relay.
Reference the volt/amp testing device. I made mine using the adapter cable that swaps pins 2 & 3. Since the adapter cable is already installed inline with the new 00-00 fuel pumps, that means one of the pumps will be reversed when the test device is inserted into the circuit (you can tell as one pump reads 12 amps and the other reads 3 amps). So, either remove the adapter cable from the harness temporarily when using the test device, or internally reverse the test device's cable wires for pins 1 & 2 when wiring the test device. i.e. swap pins 1 & 2 at one connector or, cut and connect the striped wire (the 1 to 2 switcheroo) to the calibrated resistor and and connect the meter's red lead to the non-striped wire. This way you only have one polarity reversal in the circuit and not two like I did.
Oh! I figured you just temporarily replaced the adapter cable with the box. That is what I was planning on doing.
I just ordered one. I'll give it a try on the next service (should be fun attempting to open the fuel filter). The company states the filter they sell has a smaller mesh so the filter will need to be replaced more often; I'll keep on verifying amperage draw of the pumps every 10,000 miles using my volt/amp test device.
Thanks for the tip!
Tip for opening sending unit:
Turn it clockwise. It's like a key to unlock, not a screw top at all. You can't over tighten anything. I went almost all the way around going counter-clockwise and it wouldn't open. But turning about 2-3cm clockwise and it unlocks.
Was a pain in the *** doing it in situ. Took 2 people, one holds lower par, another twists the top, it's difficult. If the sending unit is out of the tank, you can put it in bench vice and it'll be easier.
Tip for opening sending unit:
Turn it clockwise. It's like a key to unlock, not a screw top at all. You can't over tighten anything. I went almost all the way around going counter-clockwise and it wouldn't open. But turning about 2-3cm clockwise and it unlocks.
Was a pain in the *** doing it in situ. Took 2 people, one holds lower par, another twists the top, it's difficult. If the sending unit is out of the tank, you can put it in bench vice and it'll be easier.
So the top of the unit simply twists off, clockwise? No clips, etc need to be removed?
So the top of the unit simply twists off, clockwise? No clips, etc need to be removed?
It will turn both clock and anti-clockwise, but there is just one position where all the internal tabs line up to allow it to pull off. But as far as i could see, there's no external indicators which is the correct position, you just have to trial-and-error it.
Once you've found the correct position, I'd mark it for future reference
There are tiny little tabs on the side you'll see once it's out of the tank, that you'll need to press to allow it to start turning.
Best to get this thing in a bench vice with soft grips so the plastic doesn't crack.
I saw the filter on their website when they introduced their engine mounts. I plan to try both at some stage, looks like a great alternative to a perfectly good $500 assembly.
There is a slight grove that you move the upper nib to, to unlock it.
The W210 E55 fuel filter is a perfect fit if you bore out the upper hole to 10.9mm and it fits stright in.
Bore it dry and use a lighter to remove any ruf parts by warming it up.
Also the w210 e55 filter is easy to get hold of
Becarfull as the sender units are quite brittle and easy to break. Especially the upper fuel connecting neck.
Ok so are the fuel filter/pickup/sending unit different on the E55 compared to a E500? I mean I might understand the pump side being different maybe higher flow or something, This is why I ask.
looking at a European parts website for the filters and there is a large difference on price.
E55- part number 2114706494 $571.93
E500 - part number 2114704094 $240.73
so can anyone else tell me the difference. the pickup side doesn't have any pumps in them do they
M113 on the left. M113K on the right and the paper filter is different also.
[ 04 E55 AMG MERCEDES BENZ ] Fuel filter part number problems
04 E55
Hey guys
I was just starting in on This Thread about the fuel level sending unit / fuel filter housing / fuel filter / fuel tank pressure sensor / inner tank module ECT ECT...
Been through a bunch of this problem myself.
1st had the fuel pumps burnout because the fuel filter was so clogged that it made the fuel pumps have to over draw current. It also burnt a hole all the way through the plug on the top hat over the dual fuel pumps all the way into the gas tank. So I bought new pumps and bought a new fuel filter, The fuel filter was from Creative Steel (in the pictures) so in the midst of changing my fuel filter to the creative Steel fuel filter the top of my sending unit that houses the fuel filter got misplaced.... So now I have been on a month-long hair pulling, aggravating search for a lid for the sending unit that I already have. I had hoped not to have to pay $500+ for the whole unit considering I already had all the parts to put it back together.... Anyhow if anyone of you guys could PLEASE help me find a TOP PART/ LID for the sending unit I already have (IN THE PICS) or help me out and let me know if the lower price option will work for my vehicle I would be greatly greatly appreciative..... I am trying my best to find a replacement but im at a loss!
I just need the lid really. So if you guys may know someone who has a broken 211 470-6494 or even deal with someone that doesn't need it. Or someone that has an extra lid that I could buy from them. If anyone does please let me know, it would be greatly appreciated! This the company that had the fuel filter for my car.... 04 E55 W211 M113 MY fuel level sender
With the CREATIVE STEEL fuel filter in it..
SO IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT WHERE I COULD EVEN POSSIBLY FIND A LID FOR THIS OR KNOW SOMEONE WITH A BROKEN ONE THAT I COULD HAVE
I WOULD BE TRULY IN YOUR DEBT......
Originally Posted by Pmarino
M113 on the left. M113K on the right and the paper filter is different also.
Unfortunately I am pretty sure it is only once piece available from MB. The issue is that they are often the source of leaking so there will be almost none around, a lot of people will be binning them. You might get lucky with someone who has replaced the whole thing in order get a new filter rather than what you have done with the creative steel option. Where do you live?
Unfortunately I am pretty sure it is only once piece available from MB. The issue is that they are often the source of leaking so there will be almost none around, a lot of people will be binning them. You might get lucky with someone who has replaced the whole thing in order get a new filter rather than what you have done with the creative steel option. Where do you live?
I'm in THE NORTHERN MOST EASTERN PART of Tennessee right on the boarder on VA, SC, KY, NC & WV.
06-04-2018, 02:16 PM
