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We install these crank bolts at the dealership with a 5 foot long 3/4" drive breaker bar. Been doing it that way since the early 2000's with all the crank pulley failures on the non-amg cars back when. Never had one come off.
We install these crank bolts at the dealership with a 5 foot long 3/4" drive breaker bar. Been doing it that way since the early 2000's with all the crank pulley failures on the non-amg cars back when. Never had one come off.
Congrats @@1b@damg, but I'm not clear what replacement crank pulley you used and also how did you clean up the crank snout?
I cleaned the crank snout with some sandpaper by hand till it was smoothed. I found a used oem pulley but after reading about them coming apart I'm kicking myself for not buying a new one especially since the used one was 300 buvks.... A new one wouldn't of been much more expensive.
If anyone needs to borrow the tool I made to hold the pulley I can loan it out.
I actually used a small amount of red loc tite, I've built several ls motors and from the factory they come with some on their crank pulley bolts so figured I would do the same on this motor.
The green is for crank to pulley bonding. Without it, you can get that pulley back off again. If I were you I wouldn't be feeling confident about that repair. Pulleys have been spun, the crank has been sanded at least once. At the very least I'd put a new factory pulley on and pin it. The job will never be easier than right now since it's all fresh in your memory. Two weeks ago you were willing to put a new motor in to save that beautiful car.
The green is for crank to pulley bonding. Without it, you can get that pulley back off again. If I were you I wouldn't be feeling confident about that repair. Pulleys have been spun, the crank has been sanded at least once. At the very least I'd put a new factory pulley on and pin it. The job will never be easier than right now since it's all fresh in your memory. Two weeks ago you were willing to put a new motor in to save that beautiful car.
Red loc tite on a new oem bolt, 148ft/lbs+90 degrees... Used the correct method to hold the crank pulley... Yes I'm confident it's not coming off but time will tell, ive been driving it all week. The previous two attempted repairs done at two different shops the pulley came off only a few miles from the shop. They used an ARP bolt.....
My brother works with heavy equipment and has a tq wrench that goes passed 250ft pounds. I can say the factory oem bolt after doing the 90 degrees is on there tighter than 250 ft/lbs.
Keep in mind the ARP bolt is supposed to go in lubed up (on threads AND under bolt head), so it's not an apples to apples comparison with the factory torque spec. Going to go out on a limb and guess the preload with either bolt will be similar if following proper specs.
Anyway glad you got the car up and running. That's awesome. What a steal.
If she's tight ....you will be fine. Also for better sleeping at night,get in there with a mirror and see if you can locate your marks,the "turn 90* mark" and it should be still in the same spot.
This is also why I wired mine so unless the wire broke there is no way the bolt will come loose....ever !
Taking care of another issue with the car. The same shop that did the pulley install also replaced the rear main seal. I dont know how they could of possibly done such a bad job, oil is literally dripping from the seam on the rear cover.
One
of the easier transmissions I've had to remove luckily.... I ordered a new rear cover, seal and flex plate bolts. As for the sealant going to go with some permatex ultra black.
Nice to see the motor looks very clean inside with 150k miles....
+1 on the sealant. The other stuff might be the same stuff but I wasn’t going to risk it for $5 or so. I ordered the tube above when I got other parts and it was cheap.
Go to the dealer and get this for sealing. It works.
Counter guy gave me a deal on the sealant only $26... Still feel like my rear hurts though....
Do you wait a while for the sealant to cure before final tq of the cover bolts??? Thanks.
Wow, seriously awesome job. Are you home DIY or part of your profession?
I should do this sometime but rear main seal is only "sweating" at the moment.
Shot of my ls turbo mustang I built, 750rwhp and I did have a thought of putting this drivetrain in the E55..... Just a thought, no way I could disrespect the AMG God's like that.
My day job is much easier than wrenching on cars.... I've just always been a dyi on cars and I've built a few racecars. When I learned how affordable these cars were and and their potential I had have have one. Love the challenge of working on something new and high end like this.
Counter guy gave me a deal on the sealant only $26... Still feel like my rear hurts though....
Do you wait a while for the sealant to cure before final tq of the cover bolts??? Thanks.
No. you only have like 15 min of time to get it on and button it up. Do you have WIS instructions on it with all the specs?
No. you only have like 15 min of time to get it on and button it up. Do you have WIS instructions on it with all the specs?
I do not, I was planning on installing the seal on the retainer plate and then place it on the engine.. This is simmilar to how I've done them on Ford modular and chevy ls motors and I've never had them leak.
Taking care of another issue with the car. The same shop that did the pulley install also replaced the rear main seal. I dont know how they could of possibly done such a bad job, oil is literally dripping from the seam on the rear cover.
Do you have any tips for removing the transmission? Did you have to remove any of the exhaust at all? What method are you going to use to lock the flexplate?
Do you have any tips for removing the transmission? Did you have to remove any of the exhaust at all? What method are you going to use to lock the flexplate?
A few things I learned and suggest would be removing the entire coupler that connects the driveshaft to the trans. I didn't and the driveshaft got hung up. If you have the stock exhaust yes it needs to come down. I believe the cats would interfere. I have a full three inch exhaust with no cats and the trans came down in between the exhaust.
Also, it would be worth buying a transmission jack.
As for holding the flexplate I placed a rod through one of the tq converter bolt holes to keep it from turning but I wouldn't recommend it you risk cracking the oil pan. Doesn't look like the flywheel to crankshaft bolts were on there very tight as it didn't require much force to loosen them. As for when I tq them down I'm planning on placing a bolt on the tq converter hole, another on the belhousing and a wrench in between. Can't remember where but I've seen it done before. I'll probably end up using the crank pulley holder tool I made.
06-29-2018, 10:50 PM
