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Almost two hours of cleaning and we have this. On the inside of the oil pan there was some sealant that was much harder material than the silicone, confirmation the sealant from Mercedes must be used.
Benz actually has a spray to soften/dissolve the OEM sealant, it's a Loctite product. SF7200 to remove and SF7063 to prep after the remover has worked in (it's gotta be 100% neutralized or the new sealant won't cure)
After everything was perfectly cleaned, brake cleaner was my last step before applying the MB sealant. This was on timing cover, cam covers and oil pans.
After everything was perfectly cleaned, brake cleaner was my last step before applying the MB sealant. This was on timing cover, cam covers and oil pans.
Worked perfectly.
Ive cleaned the surface a few times with brake cleaner, last step I'm thinking I'll clean with soapy water to removed any chemical on the sealing surface. I should have it all back together tonight and let it cure over night. I'll add new oil in the morning.
Got the new seal and plate back on and the tranny installed. The tq converter was a pita. I had to line it up first and get a couple bolts started to get the tranny to seat properly.
Well I hate to report back that there is a small oil leak on the bell housing. It's on the passenger side. I doesn't look like it's from the oil level sensor. Very frustrating especially after how careful I tried to be with everything. Not enough that leaked on the floor while the car sat overnight, but I could see some oil. For now ill have to live with the leak. But at least it's not a puddle like before.
The only thing that I can think of is a wrong torque spec or sequence...or maybe that the sealant was applied but took to long to install and hardened up a bit? They gave me 15min working time.
From the picture, there is WAY too much sealant. There is supposed to be a 2mm bead, it has to squish out and not smear everywhere. They can leak with too much there, as it never hardens and the oil pushes it out.
The only thing that I can think of is a wrong torque spec or sequence...or maybe that the sealant was applied but took to long to install and hardened up a bit? They gave me 15min working time.
I made sure to get the cover on quickly and took less than 10 minutes but I did not replace the bolts with new ones. After doing some research I'm reading they should be replaced. There's nothing more that bugs me than oil leaks. I'm going to let the weather cool down a bit and go through it again soon.
The black sealant from the factory disintegrated on my valve cover breathers. The stuff I replaced it with is called 3bond. It's a silicone used for sealing dirt bike center cases. I bought it at the motorcycle shop and it's never failed me in 18 years. Even in high pressure fuel systems
The factory sealant is all over your engine so something is up there. Valve covers, cam covers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans. It works if properly used.
The WIS documentation is completely **** about the length of time it can be exposed, the bead diameter, and torque specs.
The factory sealant is all over your engine so something is up there. Valve covers, cam covers, timing cover, upper and lower oil pans. It works if properly used.
The WIS documentation is completely **** about the length of time it can be exposed, the bead diameter, and torque specs.
I don't think any part of my motor is completely dry, and everybody's valve covers have leaked somewhere. It's usually the breather covers because there is no gasket...it's all on the silicone. Good chemicals are a beautiful thing. So many times I've used 3bond and the appropriate color loctite on the bolts and never had to think about that job again.
I don't think any part of my motor is completely dry, and everybody's valve covers have leaked somewhere. It's usually the breather covers because there is no gasket...it's all on the silicone. Good chemicals are a beautiful thing. So many times I've used 3bond and the appropriate color loctite on the bolts and never had to think about that job again.
Im going to place the lower engine cover to collect any drops of oil for now lol. The car now has 500 miles since fixing the crank pulley issue and I'm just going to enjoy the car.
Yeh, I get it. The work on it--- to---driving it ratio is tipped wrong.
Man you said it !! My car really is never "broke" but it sure is garaged a lot due to "modification" time !!
I'm always tipped wrong....got to get on that problem!!!!! LOL
I cleaned the crank snout with some sandpaper by hand till it was smoothed. I found a used oem pulley but after reading about them coming apart I'm kicking myself for not buying a new one especially since the used one was 300 buvks.... A new one wouldn't of been much more expensive.
If anyone needs to borrow the tool I made to hold the pulley I can loan it out.
Wondering if you would loan the tool out to me. If you could message when you get a chance.
07-20-2018, 02:09 AM
