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Is the 'clutch' the failure component of the pulley that causes it to come off and break? I just assumed if a pulley goes it goes, it doesn't matter if its clutched or fixed?
I have 2 '55's and SL and an E, both 2006. I had so called guards sold on this forum on both cars to prevent a broken SC clutch finger from taking out my hoses and thermostat housing. The guard on the E55 broke its welds and came apart when the SC clutch failed. I had cut hoses and a hole in the thermostat housing as a result. I like the 'jumpier' response and the safety of knowing my SC clutch won't fail as it is not there now. Depsite my IC water being a bit warmer it still has the same power as seen on my 100-200kph pull times. I will deal with bearing problems as they occur. I don't know of another OEM SC which is clutched but could be wrong.
Wow so the SC pulley guard rings did zero to save anything when your clutch let go? Damn nice to know that was a waste of my buck.
So VRP do sell a clutch magnet delete kit, which is a semi-permanent change which proposes to decrease a bunch of weight by deleting the magnet. A few people have done this.
But then there are normal clutchless pulleys you can put on and off just as any other pulley
Is the 'clutch' the failure component of the pulley that causes it to come off and break? I just assumed if a pulley goes it goes, it doesn't matter if its clutched or fixed?
the finger springs on the clutched pulley are what typically breaks from heat/stress pressing up against the magnet and spinning at 10000rpm. nothing against the aftermarket pullies but they are not all made with Mercedes/tested quality parts and some have exploded making a mess. the fixed pully has no moving parts and cut out of a block of aluminum so it will not disintegrate like the clutched. FWIW weistec/whipple use a fixed pulley design....
So VRP do sell a clutch magnet delete kit, which is a semi-permanent change which proposes to decrease a bunch of weight by deleting the magnet. A few people have done this.
Hi guys. Just a quick question for those who have fitted FSP's. I bought the UPD 72mm FSP. I know the car needs to be tuned once it's fitted, but my tuner is 2 hours drive from me. Will the car drive ok or "like a pig" on the standard tune for the 2 hour journey Or would you recommend to trailer it? The only mods getting fitted other then the 72mm FSP is a UPD belt wrap kit, UPD Heat exchanger, Bosch 010 I/C pump, mid-Length headers with secondary cats & centre resonator removed. Cheers.
I would fit everything except the pulley. Loosen the bolt and do it back up + test fit so you know everything will work and just fit the new pulley when you get to Auckland (I presume).
I would fit everything except the pulley. Loosen the bolt and do it back up + test fit so you know everything will work and just fit the new pulley when you get to Auckland (I presume).
Yeah but he will have to change the belt when he changes the pulley at the tuners which is a hassle with beltwrap kit. So easiest to just have the belt off, loosen bwk and put it on i was thinking coz its one less thing to do there.
if supercharger isnt driven it no boost and low throttle = open loop so car manages itself re afr. Even at WOT the map would keep safe just might trigger CEL for airleak or supercharger failure if you WOT it but tuner can clear that obviously..
headers safe to drive without tune IMO just dont see power gain fully.
honestly tw2 idea is good too, id reccomend test fit fsp then put old one back on so you know how many shims you need etc. It should be easy to torque off once youve initially broken it, usually theyre seized on the first time making the extremely easy job of replacing the sc pulley a little more hassle.. I have no idea how quickly the bolt gets hard to remove, maybe a couple heat cycles.
Yeah but he will have to change the belt when he changes the pulley at the tuners which is a hassle with beltwrap kit. So easiest to just have the belt off, loosen bwk and put it on i was thinking coz its one less thing to do there.
if supercharger isnt driven it no boost and low throttle = open loop so car manages itself re afr. Even at WOT the map would keep safe just might trigger CEL for airleak or supercharger failure if you WOT it but tuner can clear that obviously..
headers safe to drive without tune IMO just dont see power gain fully.
honestly tw2 idea is good too, id reccomend test fit fsp then put old one back on so you know how many shims you need etc. It should be easy to torque off once youve initially broken it, usually theyre seized on the first time making the extremely easy job of replacing the sc pulley a little more hassle.. I have no idea how quickly the bolt gets hard to remove, maybe a couple heat cycles.
Scattershields save hoods and thermostat housings, aswell as oil lines and whatever else may be in the way. We have never had one of our pulleys fail <Knock on wood> because we use heavier springs than everyone else.
But clutch delete pulleys are getting more and more popular and we haven't been running into any drive-ability or tune-ability issues. The car does feel more responsive with a clutch delete by a long shot even vs a standard fixed.
Really hard to get over how great they look aswell
Ive never heard that before so i dont know where you are getting any of that info.
Honestly you will get better answers if you spend time reading. So many posts and questions come up that are utterly useless because it has already been asked and the knowledgeable guys are repeating this info to you.
Put a factory bearing back in, if you couldnt notice the sound of your factory pulley literally sh*t its bearings out then you really need to familiarize yourself with the vehicle.
There seems to be confusion about the naming of these pulleys. VRP sells “fixed” and “clutch delete” pulleys. With a”fixed“ pulley It seems that the clutch is always engaged (connected).
On the VRP website it states that if you use the “clutch delete” pulley it will be necessary to press off the clutch pack, and then it will not be possible to use “stock” or “ clutched pulley” afterwards.
Last edited by jetstream; Jun 15, 2020 at 07:01 PM.
I have 2 '55's and SL and an E, both 2006. I had so called guards sold on this forum on both cars to prevent a broken SC clutch finger from taking out my hoses and thermostat housing. The guard on the E55 broke its welds and came apart when the SC clutch failed. I had cut hoses and a hole in the thermostat housing as a result. I like the 'jumpier' response and the safety of knowing my SC clutch won't fail as it is not there now. Depsite my IC water being a bit warmer it still has the same power as seen on my 100-200kph pull times. I will deal with bearing problems as they occur. I don't know of another OEM SC which is clutched but could be wrong.
This is pretty scary, might go with a fixed pulley after all....
Bringing back the FSP discussion
This is install on a 04 SL55 with 2nd HE and bosch 010 pump wire to be always on. OEM exhaust OEM intake.
installed 77mm FSP with RIQ tune. it is the same black FSP, prob a UPD brand one. It is day and night. So much more response and power. Tony say I should have 490hp w 550tq at the wheel.
What I notice is .
1. immediate power. response is huge difference compare to stock pulley and tune. It is truly a beast. Scary to drive at first. got a little use to it but still scary fast.
2. trans is shifting harder with the added power.
3. No more that little squeak sound when I'm driving slow in parking lots when Im pressing the accelerator to manipulate slow roll
4 No noticeable rattle sound that people talk about with FSP in engine idle. - i did change the SC oil at the FSP install. if that's anything worth mentioning.
5. No noticeable difference in MPG. It is still pretty crappy at about 15mpg
6. SC whine!!! is intoxicating.
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