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Fixed Pulley Discussion

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Old 08-27-2018, 07:30 AM
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C300 sport 2008
Fixed Pulley Discussion

For those who have a fixed pulley you are required by mbworld racing law to answer these questions.

who tuned your pulley?
who did you buy it from?
how long have you had it (miles)?
any problems or noticeable changes (besides power bud)?
Old 08-27-2018, 10:20 AM
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I have a 74mm fixed pulley which I had machined myself with all the Eurocharged mods excluding engine internals. It was tuned by Race IQ. I have had it on for 5000 km. Power change from a 77mmm clutched pulley was slight however it doesn't stuumble when cold shifting near as often now. As it is compressing all the time now, the minimum temp that my tank water for my Killer Chiller gets to has gone up over 5deg F.
Old 08-27-2018, 10:33 AM
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We have them in stock.
Old 08-27-2018, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by trabots
I have a 74mm fixed pulley which I had machined myself with all the Eurocharged mods excluding engine internals. It was tuned by Race IQ. I have had it on for 5000 km. Power change from a 77mmm clutched pulley was slight however it doesn't stuumble when cold shifting near as often now. As it is compressing all the time now, the minimum temp that my tank water for my Killer Chiller gets to has gone up over 5deg F.
what are the key dangers to it, what if you plan on selling the car you think that will impede the sale.
Old 08-27-2018, 11:07 AM
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I have a 72mm fixed. Here are my thoughts after switched from a 77mm clutched:

Pros:
  1. Less expensive
  2. Less weight. (Probably negligible but who knows, any ones input here is likely just speculation.)
  3. Slightly better response. (Also, I feel that any difference is probably negligible.)
  4. No more clutch engage hick-up at low part throttle RPMs from using a small clutched pulley.
Cons:
  1. A lot more at idle heat. IATs at idle with the clutched pulley never really exceeded 120. I have let the car idle at a grocery store while my wife is inside for ~20 minutes while I had a napping baby and hit ~145 IAT.
  2. Significantly less cool down at the track between runs. With the clutched after parking for a while and sitting in staging IAT usually would start at just under 120. With the 72 fixed the creep up to >130 fast. (I currently have a CWA50, frozen boost heat exchanger, and meth. Upgraded to two CWA50s and a DTK monster heat exchanger at the moment, may be better after. While on it meth keeps temps in check no problem, its just the fixed pulley keeps the heat coming at all times really)
  3. Cruising IAT went from ~15 above ambient with clutched to ~22 above ambient with fixed.
  4. Fewer tuning options. (EC does not tune for fixed)
  5. While the small clutched pulley engage hickup is gone, there are some times hickups(more like a slight rev) where the clutch would engage, I assume due to the operation of the bypass valve in cunjuntion with the always engaged clutch. Not much, but something to note.
A lot of people seem to have reviews saying the fixed pulley is the next best thing since sliced bread. I didn't really notice it, and would have no problem switching to a clutched pulley again. Definitely a lot more heat under normal driving and idle situations. I don't mind, I will beef up the cooling system nicely. But certainly something to be prepared for.
Old 08-27-2018, 11:23 AM
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An additional item to consider is wear on the rear supercharger bearings; they are pre-greased but not in an oil bath. With clutched pulley, the supercharger rotates intermittently only when the clutch is engaged. With a fixed pulley, constant rotation. So, be aware of the pros/cons and keep an ear open for a dry bearing.

I change bearings associated with the serpentine belt and idler pulleys every 60,000 miles. By 90,000 I've had them failing. The rear bearings in the supercharger will now become a maintenance item.

FWIW, YMMV, yada, yada, yada....
Old 08-27-2018, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by drothgeb
I have a 72mm fixed. Here are my thoughts after switched from a 77mm clutched:

Pros:
  1. Less expensive
  2. Less weight. (Probably negligible but who knows, any ones input here is likely just speculation.)
  3. Slightly better response. (Also, I feel that any difference is probably negligible.)
  4. No more clutch engage hick-up at low part throttle RPMs from using a small clutched pulley.
Cons:
  1. A lot more at idle heat. IATs at idle with the clutched pulley never really exceeded 120. I have let the car idle at a grocery store while my wife is inside for ~20 minutes while I had a napping baby and hit ~145 IAT.
  2. Significantly less cool down at the track between runs. With the clutched after parking for a while and sitting in staging IAT usually would start at just under 120. With the 72 fixed the creep up to >130 fast. (I currently have a CWA50, frozen boost heat exchanger, and meth. Upgraded to two CWA50s and a DTK monster heat exchanger at the moment, may be better after. While on it meth keeps temps in check no problem, its just the fixed pulley keeps the heat coming at all times really)
  3. Cruising IAT went from ~15 above ambient with clutched to ~22 above ambient with fixed.
  4. Fewer tuning options. (EC does not tune for fixed)
  5. While the small clutched pulley engage hickup is gone, there are some times hickups(more like a slight rev) where the clutch would engage, I assume due to the operation of the bypass valve in cunjuntion with the always engaged clutch. Not much, but something to note.
A lot of people seem to have reviews saying the fixed pulley is the next best thing since sliced bread. I didn't really notice it, and would have no problem switching to a clutched pulley again. Definitely a lot more heat under normal driving and idle situations. I don't mind, I will beef up the cooling system nicely. But certainly something to be prepared for.
Those are a lot of cons..........

would you recommend me to get a 77m clutched or clutchless after cooling mods
Old 08-27-2018, 11:26 AM
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I have an 83mm from Shardul but have not put it on yet as I found out my SC clutch had been replaced at around 80k - will do it one of these days. Last time I had a conversation with EC (which was a while ago) my understanding they (jerry) will do a tune for it but does not recommend them - maybe they have changed their position on them these days ,, people either love em or hate em. Seems like RaceIQ does a lot of them with good results - instant boost/response
Old 08-27-2018, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hayseed
I have an 83mm from Shardul but have not put it on yet as I found out my SC clutch had been replaced at around 80k - will do it one of these days. Last time I had a conversation with EC (which was a while ago) my understanding they (jerry) will do a tune for it but does not recommend them - maybe they have changed their position on them these days ,, people either love em or hate em. Seems like RaceIQ does a lot of them with good results - instant boost/response
Yea, but what about the resale impact. Since you can’t revert to stock.
Old 08-27-2018, 11:39 AM
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why can you not revert back to stock ? change the pulley back and reflash -- I am guessing going from stock to an 83 will be a good jump in HP/TQ,,, I opted for the mid size pulley to keep heat down,, 77 will generate a lot more IAT's... your call / your car -- but no reason you cant put the stock back on when its time to sell
Old 08-27-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by hayseed
why can you not revert back to stock ? change the pulley back and reflash -- I am guessing going from stock to an 83 will be a good jump in HP/TQ,,, I opted for the mid size pulley to keep heat down,, 77 will generate a lot more IAT's... your call / your car -- but no reason you cant put the stock back on when its time to sell
people say you’re removing the clutch meaning you need a new supercharger to get clutched again.
Old 08-27-2018, 12:01 PM
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absolutely not true
Old 08-27-2018, 12:05 PM
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You don't need to take the clutch magnet off. You live in florida don't you? Better off with clutched. IAT's above 95* are the first stage of timing pull by the ECU. You might actually loose power.
Old 08-27-2018, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by w204_racing

people say you’re removing the clutch meaning you need a new supercharger to get clutched again.
You do not remove the SC portion of the clutch when switching to a clutchless pulley. Easy to switch back and forth, no difference.

.... well.... you CAN remove the clutch from the SC but there is no reason to, and it's hard and a waste of time. No one does.

Old 08-27-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by StarvingArtist
You don't need to take the clutch magnet off. You live in florida don't you? Better off with clutched. IAT's above 95* are the first stage of timing pull by the ECU. You might actually loose power.

so if I put clutchless that means I can still put on clutched no problem? I read so much about people saying you would need a new supercharger
Old 08-27-2018, 01:38 PM
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Ive never heard that before so i dont know where you are getting any of that info.
Honestly you will get better answers if you spend time reading. So many posts and questions come up that are utterly useless because it has already been asked and the knowledgeable guys are repeating this info to you.
Put a factory bearing back in, if you couldnt notice the sound of your factory pulley literally sh*t its bearings out then you really need to familiarize yourself with the vehicle.
Old 08-27-2018, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by brdaun
Ive never heard that before so i dont know where you are getting any of that info.
Honestly you will get better answers if you spend time reading. So many posts and questions come up that are utterly useless because it has already been asked and the knowledgeable guys are repeating this info to you.
Put a factory bearing back in, if you couldnt notice the sound of your factory pulley literally sh*t its bearings out then you really need to familiarize yourself with the vehicle.
Take it easy buddy, I’ve been researched for countless days I just figured let me get recent answers. I had someone tell me that I guess he lied. I’m looking at a new pulley for a reason bud.

Most posts are from when it was introduced I need experienced members with the product. I don’t understand with the need of forum members to say search when some people already have lol. We just want up to date answers.
Old 08-27-2018, 02:05 PM
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Congrats on your 1000th post.
Countless days of research and you thought you couldn't put a factory pulley back on? Dont be so lazy expecting everyone to feed you the answers you need. Take your time...Be literate with your posts...and really contribute to these forums.
Old 08-27-2018, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by brdaun
Congrats on your 1000th post.
Countless days of research and you thought you couldn't put a factory pulley back on? Dont be so lazy expecting everyone to feed you the answers you need. Take your time...Be literate with your posts...and really contribute to these forums.
So what exactly are you contributing? And thanks is it really my 1000th post?
Yes I read no where you can put it back on, someone told me you couldn’t. Lazy? This is a discussion thread about owners with fixed pulleys you jerk 😂
Old 08-27-2018, 02:12 PM
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Post #14 your most recent question is answered. Lazy? very.
Old 08-27-2018, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by brdaun
Post #14 your most recent question is answered. Lazy? very.
thanks for responding to my questions brdaun, how long have you had your fixed pulley? Is it working for you? It’s great that you e contributed to this thread I appreciate it
Old 08-27-2018, 02:59 PM
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Why subject your motor to all that increased heat, wear on bearings and decreased fuel economy? Clutched is the best of both worlds and intended for long term durability and reduced parasitic drag.
Does the clutch not react quickly enough for you? As soon as you tip in the throttle it's right there when you need it? Sorry, I can't see the minimal benefits outweighing the cons unless your trying to build a dedidcated
1/4 mile drag car. In that case go buy a Big Block Mopar.. just my 2 cents.
Old 08-27-2018, 05:42 PM
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got the vrp 74 mm fixed and green belt! get that for sure! and race IQ tune
Old 08-27-2018, 05:44 PM
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I have 2 '55's and SL and an E, both 2006. I had so called guards sold on this forum on both cars to prevent a broken SC clutch finger from taking out my hoses and thermostat housing. The guard on the E55 broke its welds and came apart when the SC clutch failed. I had cut hoses and a hole in the thermostat housing as a result. I like the 'jumpier' response and the safety of knowing my SC clutch won't fail as it is not there now. Depsite my IC water being a bit warmer it still has the same power as seen on my 100-200kph pull times. I will deal with bearing problems as they occur. I don't know of another OEM SC which is clutched but could be wrong.
Old 08-27-2018, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by trabots
I have 2 '55's and SL and an E, both 2006. I had so called guards sold on this forum on both cars to prevent a broken SC clutch finger from taking out my hoses and thermostat housing. The guard on the E55 broke its welds and came apart when the SC clutch failed. I had cut hoses and a hole in the thermostat housing as a result. I like the 'jumpier' response and the safety of knowing my SC clutch won't fail as it is not there now. Depsite my IC water being a bit warmer it still has the same power as seen on my 100-200kph pull times. I will deal with bearing problems as they occur. I don't know of another OEM SC which is clutched but could be wrong.
what bearings are you talking about exactly


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