BC928

BC928

SICAMG

The bearing is a very snug fit on the pinion. You are going to have to tap the pinion to knock it out of the bearing. I have rebuilt these and they are fairly easy to do.

BC928

Thank you. Which way am I taping? No movement with a downward press. I am thinking you are talking about getting the ID of the bearing separated from the shaft so the bearing can be brought up and out. Then the pinion can be pushed down.

SICAMG

Just look at your picture and push the pinion down. A press will work and make sure you put some rags under the pinion as it will fall and possibly chip the gear.

BC928

I put about 6 tons strange down and it did not move. Because of the tension of the angled bearing I think that has to come up as you originally suggested first. I may try and chill it and then heat up the top (outside) bearing to see if it will release.

BC928

SICAMG

That was a tight one for sure but at least it's out !

BC928

Two spacers in there. One behind the larger bearing race, and the normal one that is supposed to be the "crush" washer.

Gotta find the part numbers if possible for these. I have found the bearings and the seal.

benzokirk

Reviving this old thread because I need help finding a part number for the Pinion Bearings (inner and outer).
I have the Timken number for the Carrier Bearings and Races. Any information on the Pinion Bearings part number would be helpful.

BC928

Let me try and find it. I thought I posted it.

benzokirk

So this is what I found, so far, I'm posting far more than I need here just in case it'll help someone else later.
@BC928 can you confirm the numbers on the Pinion Bearings? Also, can anyone confirm these numbers are interchangeable between E55 and E63? The dealership is telling me that I need a VIN from an E55 before they can answer that question.

washers and sleeve
1263530062 qty2
1263530042 qty1

Carrier Bearings
230 350 02 49 qty1
230 350 03 49 qty1

Pinion Bearings (for e55 but should be the same as the 63 they did not change things often just didn’t allow parts to look up the bearings in the catalog)
230 350 00 49 qty1
230 350 01 49 qty1
Nut
210 353 05 72 qty1
Seals
230 997 02 46 qty1
230 997 03 46 qty2

BC928

I found some emails where I had a problem with this. But I have not let found the part number that was correct.

From what I can tell the 00 49 number is correct and the rear/inside set.

It would make sense the 01 49 would be outside, but I cannot confirm and don't wish to misinform - as I was sent incorrect parts in this part of the project but its been so long I don't remember which.

benzokirk

Got it, thanks for the info-

craigmac

I am in this problem now of needing to replace the pinion bearing on my 08 E63. Has anyone found a replacement part?

E63007

Hey guys!

I'm finally at the point of installing the 3.06 Gears from a Doner Chrysler 300 SRT8 Differential. I got the Ring Gear off the Diff but haven't been able to remove the Pinion! I've taken a Plastic Dead Stroke Hammer to it and practically destroyed the hammer! I also took a 4x4 and 10lb hammer and broke the 4x4! Then I tried to do the same with a 2x4 with same result, NADA! Since I don't have a Press, I'm wondering if taking the BFH to it with the Nut on would be recommended? Being as I need to use the 3.06 Pinion Gear with the 3.06 Ring Gear, I just want to make sure not to inadvertently destroy it!!! Otherwise, its off to the shop where they suggested using the air hammer, but my concern there is the same!! Is heating the case with a torch the best way to prepare for the removal or is there another method that works better!! I've been working on and off since July on this and can't wait to get her back on the road. Yes, I know about the ECU and TCU programming involved and my guy can also change the degree to which the Gas Pedal effects throttle as well as being able to add another shift point via the M/C/Sport Button all via Vediamo! All the best!!

SICAMG

Heat up the bearing real good and than give the pinion some good shots with a heavy hammer and be careful of the tip as to not mushroom it. Get a socket or something to side over it.
Are you swapping the gears yourself?

E63007

Yes, as I said, I got the "donor 3.06 SRT8" gears and have put the Ring Gear on an M-factory LSD and had a local shop press the Bearings on each side. I have new races to go with them as well as 2 new bearings, races, crush sleeve, and shims/washers, Nut for the Pinion. My last concern will be to determine if these new parts, with part numbers that I could retrieve by pulling up the W210 E55 STAR/EPC as the W211 E63 EPC doesn't show any detail of the internals on my version of STAR/EPC, will fit on the 3.06 Pinion Gear??? Its a crapshoot but I'll provide pics and part numbers if it all fits together, that is, if the calipers prove that the Pinion shank diameter for the 3.06 is the same as that of the E55. BTW the bearings for the M-Factory LSD did press on perfectly and I should be able to provide those part numbers too for reference.

But before all that, I need to get out each Pinion, both from the donor with the 3.06 and my standard 2.82? When you say heat up the Bearing, do you mean that one should torch from the topside, assuming the Diff cover is off and that side is laying flat on the floor? Wouldn't that heat up the Pinion and expand it too? Or should I heat up the surrounding Case, the perimeter of the circle on the case on the Pinion side, just on the outside of where that most outward bearing is placed?

12/4/20- I ended up bringing both diff's to the shop and they pressed the pinions out somehow. when I went to go pick it up, my guy there pointed out in what great shape the Pinion was as well as the bearings and races! He went on to say he could not believe how few miles they must have showing me how shiny the teeth were indicating both of its good shape as well as it being broken in. Further the bearings and races looked practically new, compared with the 2.82 Bearings!! I told him I had new ones at home as well as the crush sleeve, but he showed me on the 2.82 Pinion that there was no Crush Sleeve!! So then and there he took it upon himself to pop out the races/shims in my Diff and those of the 3.06 and then installed both races/shims that came from the 3.06 Pinion Diff into mine having me steady the diff as he pounded away!!! In all it took maybe ten minutes!! The trickiest part was me holding the pinion in while he tapped the bearing on from outside the diff. I couldn't have done that on my own, not easily anyway!! He instructed me that I would have to check to see if the Gears lined up using the paste he gave me. Then, if the pinion was centered on the Ring Gear and play was minimal (I'll have to get those particulars ASAP!!) and backlash was good, then great! Otherwise if backlash was too much, then I would need to add a shim. As for the alignment of the carrier bearings to their respective races, I would then have to also confirm with the paste that the teeth engage properly. I'll definitely be studying this more in days to come though!!

Andres Morejon

My differential is making whirring noises at speed and I am looking to replace my bearings too. Aside from a press, is there anything unique or special needed as far as tools? I've never taken diff apart. Any write ups or help would mean a lot.

cnterline

I did this recently I have a press ,bearing came off no prob , got bearings from FCP Euro, and crush collar from another company , seal from Benz

SICAMG

E63007 how are you making out with the swap ?
Where did you get the selective pinion shims from ....if you needed them ?

E63007

12/18/2020- I installed the LSD with the “New” 3.06 Ring Gear after having Tightened down the Pinion Gear until it was snug! After using a dead blow hammer to initially drive the flange onto the Pinion, what I did was use my impact driver to first snug/drive down the flange until it was touching the bearing. This took several attempts making sure to note just how much the nut was turning. I used two extra bolts/nuts from the old Drive Shaft Discs mounted in the flange holes and used the end of a crowbar as a lever to keep it from spinning while using my DeWalt Impact Drive to get the Nut on snug. I then took the impact off and checked for play. Once I got snug to the Bearing, I proceeded to tighten using 1/8 turns (In my case that was only one turn!) until there was sufficient resistance in turning the flange/pinion. I then installed the LSD and used the new Races and used CirClips (in their noted proper sides). Specifically, I installed the Race opposite the ring gear first and then installed the circlip followed by using a light hammer and a punch tapping the circlip until it was seated in its notch. Then slid the LSD in being gentle to engage the gears just so. With my hand still on the LSD, I used the other to roll the diff over onto the side so the bearing of the LSD rested on the installed Race. Then proceeded to install the other Race similarly. I might mention it took a little more diligence in tapping with the hammer to get that CirClip in place making sure the gap is exposing the lubrication hole on each side! I then used gear paste to see if the gears engaged but in the end I went down to the shop to have them confirm all looked good. As for the backlash, it fell right at .3mm with no side to side movement! I’ll have to wait till I get her rebuilt to see if it all plays nice! Have a Merry Merry!!

E63007

4/23/21-I just got my car on the road only to find out one the rear Rotors were not true. In fact, it was making such a racket that I got no further than 500 feet from my driveway whereupon I made a U-turn to go back to my Garage! Waited another week for the replacement and got her on the road only to then find out the A/C was empty. But I went for a test ride nonetheless and was happy to find out that the programming of the 3.06 gears in the rear Differential worked as I had hoped it would!! But upon further testing I was OK accelerating but when I leveled off at constant speed, say 45mph, it would be OK if I "Coasted" with throttle constant, HOWEVER, when I would take my foot off the gas to slow down, an obvious rotational drone occurs! It is more obvious if I speed up and release the gas, so my thought immediately went to its being Pinion Shaft related. I went to go get my A/C evacuated so I could replace the Compressor/Condenser/Expansion Valve and the radiator as well due to its leaking like a sieve!! After that, at closing of the day, I went to meet the guy who helped me set it up and told him what was up. Since helped me out gratis, I have no qualms with him. He said since it was a "Decel Droan" it had to be shimmed. Fortunately, he has a friend who specializes in just differentials, so the bummer is me having to go through process of removing it again!!!!!

SICAMG

Yea I thought it would make noise. Like I said in your other post you need to run a pattern on the gears to see where they are meshing to each other.

E63007

Well, I finally this past week got my 2007 E63 back on the road. The Rear Differential w/LSD and 3.06 along with the addition of the “A” as a choice for the shifting of the tranny and perhaps shock level/height (I haven’t confirmed this yet) drive so well! 5th (oops-I meant 4th gear!!) gear at 55mph is right at 3k rpm, right in the sweet spot (73mph @ 4K and 95mph @5K)! It took me a couple days to figure why the ride was so rough though! I have written at length about the process I went through to fix it in another thread but I’ll just say it had to do with my not having “initialized” the Steering Wheel Sensor (after removing the Air Bag and Steering Wheel while it was getting redone with new leather) as it is just one of the many components which comprise the Semi-active Airmatic ADS in these cars. Whether or not I could have done it without Xentry/DAS remains unknown, but all I had to do is turn the steering wheel lock to lock and in Xentry I could see it went past 400* and confirmed same. After doing that, the suspension, which was rock hard automatically came out of “Safety Mode” where it shuts off the compression and rebound valves, resumed its normal amazing functionality again!

I still have my wiper mechanism removed as a result of installing the new A/C Expansion Valve and heater Combination Valve at the firewall. I’ve kept it off since I have a replacement windshield still wrapped in plastic sitting on a foam pad on a table in my garage waiting to be installed. I am waiting for the “Tint-Tac” that was excluded from my Flexfilm order placed over a month ago but I only realized when I opened everything up and found that rather important component missing. It should arrive tomorrow and then I’ll install Flexfilm 72% premium ceramic on the windshield on the bench rather after the windshield is installed. I also got their 38% for the front windows, 20% for the rear side windows, 50% for the rear and extra 72% for the panoramic roof (which I’ll install over the OEM Tint as compared to the side windows which I’ll use steam and plastic razors to remove).

Another thing, I made an appointment last Monday for a wheel alignment (my 3rd on this car ) and again, I left with more of a pull than when I went in! Just amazing, you go to these “experts” and all they do is go off the damn machine and do whatever is quickest to try to put things in speck. Well, the rear end was easy with my having installed UPD Toe Arms. But when it came to the front prefaced by telling the guy I was having a very slight pull to the left, he didn’t even look at the Torque Arms! He simply was trying to get less camber in the passenger side after adjusting Toe (again really easy). He did so even though I would have rather he adjust the F1 Adjustable Upper Control Arms. But that would have taken too long! So, get this, he proceeds to loosen the Crash Bolt on the Airspring Arm and before I knew it, he twisted the bolt and, since he didn’t ask me to remove air from the front struts as I stood ready at my PC with Xentry/DAS running, bang! The Airspring Arm slide sideways and the inner bushing slammed against the bolt after traveling a mere 4mm. He told me, as if I were some idiot, that they’re not supposed do that! Well no ****, your supposed to de-pressurize the front by “lowering the front” in DAS, and then remove the bolt and line it up with the little nubs in the damn bushing! Remarkably though, as of it were a nice save on his part, he got the reading he was looking for off the Hunter Machine. His guy then went for a test ride, on 25mph back streets mind you, only to return saying it was still “drifting left”, the reason I brought it in. He then swapped both tires and the result was a strong pull to the right, so in the end he swapped them back and explained, wait for it……that it must be the tires! In the three years I’ve had the car, two of them the car has been in my garage on stands, so there’s no more than 6k on those tires, but OK I signed up for new Michelin’s and was scheduled to return Thursday (today). After paying for the “service”, Ok he did dial in the rears, I drove home only to realize that not only did it pull still slightly left but the steering wheel was set at 11 o’clock!

Monday night I got the car back up on stands and Tuesday I examined how the Crash Bolts were installed by the last genius and guess what? I remember that episode ended with the car pulling even more right so when I got home, I immediately changed the one thing I had noticed that guy did on the passenger side Spring Arm. He had pulled it out, so I had pulled in back in and then corrected as much as I could with the Upper Arms. But after digging through WIS, I found the alignment parameters and the degrees of Camber and Caster that are created by installing the crash bolts one way or the other. What was striking to me was that the last genius set it up in such a way that the WIS doesn’t even account for! Specifically going + or increasing both Caster and Camber at the same time! I’ll admit, I f’d up one the one side that I thought I corrected, but I hadn’t realized that both Air Spring Arms were pulled inwards and that the thrust arms were both pulling forwards increasing Camber, an absolute No No! So in preparation for round 2 with NEW TIRES, I set it up all neutral, meaning “0”. I found my original bolts and swapped them in the AirSpring Arms and made due with the Crash Bolts set in the middle for the Torque Arms. Being that each reset meant about 4mm movement each, I tried my best to approximate how much that would mean adjusting the Upper Arms, so I broke out the Calipers and figured for around the same. (After adjusting the upper hiem joints of the Upper Control Arm inwards, I realize just now I did the opposite of what I should have! nevertheless) I didn’t touch the toe (ie steering wheel) So this morning on my way to the shop I notice no misalignment of the steering, so that problem was fixed by the Torque Arms most likely, and just a little more drift to the left with the wheel moving that way as well, as compared to it being set up straight and moving to the left, which would be more complex problem. So now that it just dawned on me that I have to reverse what I did by unscrewing the heim joints outwards which will cause more toe-in and more positive Caster to offset the negative caused by pulling each arm out to neutral (4mm from the AirSpring Moving back out and another small amount due to the Camber being negatively effected by the torque arm moving back 2mm) it turns out I had to reschedule for next week so at least I have another attempt to have them go beyond the “norm”. But maybe by the time I’m done tinkering, it won’t require going through the painstaking trouble raising the car, deflating the Airmatic, moving a bolt, inflating and lowering, and looking at a screen, jeesh! Now that would be worth $250!