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I have a 2005 E55 and a 2011 BMW 528 I bought a month ago for cheap, didn’t even want it but it was too cheap to pass up. Anyway, I’m doing the valve cover gasket on it. (BMW forums are horrible for DIY, I guess the demographic of People over there are too scared to wrench on their car). This is a much more involve process than the e55. A lot of bs to deal with.
I finally got the valve cover off, and I’m shocked at how filthy and coated the engine is in oil funk for 80k. Nothing like my E55 which is 6 years older and double the mileage.
How would you go about cleaning this? Brake cleaner and shop rags then seafoam in the crank before I change the oil?
Wow that’s a mess,, did overheat at some point or have water in the block ? I think I would open up the drain plug and leave it off, the get a couple of gallons of kerosine in a pump sprayer and just keep delousing. Put some oil/filter and sea foam in it and run it , change it again and again ,,, how cheap is cheap ?
Wow that’s a mess,, did overheat at some point or have water in the block ? I think I would open up the drain plug and leave it off, the get a couple of gallons of kerosine in a pump sprayer and just keep delousing. Put some oil/filter and sea foam in it and run it , change it again and again ,,, how cheap is cheap ?
Afterwards do half a dozen back to back changes, one per week. An oil with a good detergent system. This isn't the first BMW engine I have seen looking just like that. The other had it's first oil change at 40K miles.
That's what happens when you never change the oil.
Showed my housemate the pics who's been working on MB and BMW cars for 20+ years now and he's only seen one that bad. He said the oil hadn't been changed in over 75k miles. That engine had also grenaded itself.
Originally Posted by duccen
Thats terrible,if you bought it cheap sell it cheap,im thinking of the small oilchannels inside the engine!
This. I would want nothing to do with that car.
Wow that’s a mess,, did overheat at some point or have water in the block ? I think I would open up the drain plug and leave it off, the get a couple of gallons of kerosine in a pump sprayer and just keep delousing. Put some oil/filter and sea foam in it and run it , change it again and again ,,, how cheap is cheap ?
Please clarify, open the drain plug and put the kerosene where?
I just finished the job. Took a good hour to clean what I could as well as the valve cover itself, you can actually see the metal instead of oil. Might be placebo, but it seems to run a lot smoother. Definitely starts quicker.
Im waiting on an oil filter in the mail, should be here money. I’ll be seafoam in it tonight and drive it around tomorrow.
Paid $1900. 82k miles. Brand new tires. Needed a windshield. And to be cleaned. Here’s some pics. It’s super base. But rides nice, makes a good highway car. Was averaging 33-35mpg @ 75mph (Even with it gunked the way it was)
I found a how-to for the kerosene flush. Some people say do it others say don’t. I’ll probably do it. Curious to see the results.
Many years ago I did a kerosene flush on a Ford 302 CID V8 in a Ford Mustang in which the engine looked much like yours (like you, I got it *cheap*). It worked, I drove it for another 20,000 miles, then sold the car. I would not expect it to reach 250,000 miles but easily into the mid-100's.
Many years ago I did a kerosene flush on a Ford 302 CID V8 in a Ford Mustang in which the engine looked much like yours (like you, I got it *cheap*). It worked, I drove it for another 20,000 miles, then sold the car. I would not expect it to reach 250,000 miles but easily into the mid-100's.
Had a similar engine like that years ago at a Chevy dealer it looked just like that. When I tried to drain the oil ....it would not come out. Dropped pan and it looked like and felt like jelly !! And this was a Chevy's Field Rep's car with around 70k on it and not one documented oil change !!!!!
Look in to the BG engine flush. I have never believed in any of these additives until I saw it work. A coworker bought a client's diesel that was sludged even worse then yours. I thought for sure the motor was done. It had extreme crank case pressure. He put it back together with a new turbo and ran the BG engine flush through it, changed the oil a few times, and it is still running to this day. I couldn't believe it.
and people say "you don't need to run engine flush"
Liqui Moly engine flush that ***** when it's all buttoned up... and change the oil. Repeat again next oil change.
Kreen is also a very good engine cleaner you can run every so and so miles in the oil without reprecussions on an old engine[/QUOTE
You should never have to. If everyone changed there oil ahead of schedule your engine should look like new inside. We have seen engines with well over 200,000 miles with an owner that changed oil like clock work and it looks great inside. It's all about staying ahead of the "recommended" maintenance and staying way ahead on transmission service as well. Fluid's should always look fairly clean.
[/QUOTE You should never have to. If everyone changed there oil ahead of schedule your engine should look like new inside. We have seen engines with well over 200,000 miles with an owner that changed oil like clock work and it looks great inside. It's all about staying ahead of the "recommended" maintenance and staying way ahead on transmission service as well. Fluid's should always look fairly clean.
I agree but every once in awhile there are some motors that are known to sludge. VAG's 1.8 comes to mind.
OP you may want to drop the oil pan and have a look at the oil pick up screen and pan bottom. Manually clean as much as you can. After you cleaned head was there much varnish (after pics would be nice)? If it were me, after manually cleaning top and bottom. I'd run some cheap oil with flush of choice (BG and lubrimolly are god choices) as per direction (usually 20 min idle) and depending what the the oil looks like, I may repeat until clean. The most expensive and aggressive DYI in my mind would be a soak with Kreen or MMO (marvel mystery oil). Drain, replace with kreen or MMO, disconnect fuel pump relay or fuse, crank to circulate (5-10sec) and let it sit for 24hrs (or more, depending what the dip stick shows oil to look like). I may even repeat the cranking a few times during the soak. TIFWIW....Some consider me crazy Anyway take some after PIC's
I agree but every once in awhile there are some motors that are known to sludge. VAG's 1.8 comes to mind.
OP you may want to drop the oil pan and have a look at the oil pick up screen and pan bottom. Manually clean as much as you can. After you cleaned head was there much varnish (after pics would be nice)? If it were me, after manually cleaning top and bottom. I'd run some cheap oil with flush of choice (BG and lubrimolly are god choices) as per direction (usually 20 min idle) and depending what the the oil looks like, I may repeat until clean. The most expensive and aggressive DYI in my mind would be a soak with Kreen or MMO (marvel mystery oil). Drain, replace with kreen or MMO, disconnect fuel pump relay or fuse, crank to circulate (5-10sec) and let it sit for 24hrs (or more, depending what the dip stick shows oil to look like). I may even repeat the cranking a few times during the soak. TIFWIW....Some consider me crazy Anyway take some after PIC's
Unfortunately, I did not get any after pics. It was a messy job, I had oil all over my hands and I didn’t want to touch my phone.
I used a flat flat blade and scraped as much sludge as I could. Underneath the sludge, I wouldn’t consider it too bad.
Originally Posted by MACEDON
No but I've used it in my E55, multiple times.
Ceratec and MOS2 are excellent additives and my car runs a lot better because of them.
Also don't neglect to run a good fuel system cleaner through your tank (Red Line is the best IMHO)
I put seafoam in the tank and the crank. Time is of the essence. I did an oil change this morning as I’m driving from west palm to Pensacola and back this weekend. So wish me luck.
The old oil honestly was better than I was expecting, must have been changed before I purchased it. The oil filter was in better shape than I thought it would be.
Will do another oil change when I return home
Last edited by zhmorrow13; 10-02-2018 at 11:57 AM.
Unfortunately, I did not get any after pics. It was a messy job, I had oil all over my hands and I didn’t want to touch my phone.
I used a flat flat blade and scraped as much sludge as I could. Underneath the sludge, I wouldn’t consider it too bad.
I put seafoam in the tank and the crank. Time is of the essence. I did an oil change this morning as I’m driving from west palm to Pensacola and back this weekend. So wish me luck.
The old oil honestly was better than I was expecting, must have been changed before I purchased it. The oil filter was in better shape than I thought it would be.
Will do another oil change when I return home
For german engines only use german products, the liqui moly flush is probably your best bet.Only thing that sucks is you gotta order it online.
09-29-2018, 11:16 AM
holy......
Anyway take some after PIC's
BTW Does it idle smooth?
