WHICH LSD is Better for E55?
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Even when I was stock the car was a one wheel wonder.
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'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
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From: OC, CA
2006 E55
Nah i suggested it originally coz i knew diff specialist was 80 or 90 ph and quoted 2 to 4 hours, think it was 300 including diff oil in end. I suspect if i had gone to dealer theyd have just sent it to them anyway, i know they use other companies for alignment and muffler/welding work and some other **** like repairing my axle. But if they use those companies on your behalf they charge markup.. They didnt offer to do it all themselves so im pretty confident.
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2005 E55 AMG
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CLS55
You can DIY for the dropping out of the diff unit, you might need to buy/rent some specialist tools, and if a hub is seized on it can be a right ***** to press it off! Then for changing the diff over you can easily get a shop specializing in diffs and transmissions to do it! 
If I had a garage, perhaps a lift or good jack stands and maybe some more tools I'd definitely have done it to save money, but I have a single lane driveway full of trees, cars and limited tools and not very many mates with tools, so I got raped by the dealership lots of dollars.
If I had a garage, perhaps a lift or good jack stands and maybe some more tools I'd definitely have done it to save money, but I have a single lane driveway full of trees, cars and limited tools and not very many mates with tools, so I got raped by the dealership lots of dollars.
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CLK56TT (WIP), S65, RR 5.0 S/C
DIY it. It’s not difficult and you’ll learn something new. I only had to buy a dial gauge. But I have most basic tools now (bought on money I saved from doing it myself rather than giving it away like that Richie Rich PieRat guy ;-))
Last edited by Alex L; Dec 24, 2018 at 02:11 AM.
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2006 E55
Another question, how would installing LSD effects MPG? Right now my average fwy MPG is 19.9, drove down to San Diego Friday and got nearly 23 MPG, a 100 miles trip cruising @80 mph
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CLS55
Yes your mileage will reduce drastically as you will now feel confident to plant your foot down flat all the time. 
But in all honesty it might affect mileage but only when cornering and locked up, but itd be so minimal.. I dont think youd notice it..
But in all honesty it might affect mileage but only when cornering and locked up, but itd be so minimal.. I dont think youd notice it..
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From: OC, CA
2006 E55
launching? Can you see a difference? I was reading up on other threads and many have mentioned straight launching was minimal and radial tires would be a better alternative. I’m a bit deterred after reading its mainly help on circuit driving. Also, saw someone posted it cost $1500 to get Indy to install. $$$$ lots to look into.
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Anything but part throttle and I spin one wheel only. Putting power more evenly to both will help immensely especially on imperfect road surfaces. Drag radials will be better but they don't suit everyone. They are expensive, don't last very long and are way worse if you get a lot of rain which isn't an issue in California normally. At least compared to good summer tires.
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CLS55
Yeah this doesn't compute mate for me mate, straight line speed -must- be increased by LSD, I don't have quantitative data but here is my qualitative approach..
Open diff = wheel spin, power keeps going to it, brakes applied to that wheel by ESP (even when off) which tries to balance it so we're off and gripping again (maybe), some parameter puts something out of wack (bump in road, camber in road to allow rain to run off or tyre is slightly colder than the other..IDK), wheel spin again, brakes again, rinse and repeat this until car gets good traction or you get to top of 1st gear at which point power cuts because wheels are spinning at different speeds, you almost headbut the steering wheel from such aggressive cut in power, gear changes, power comes back, off we go.
So we have excessive wheel-spin due to power being routed to wheel with least grip by open diff, we have the brakes applied, oh, perhaps some timing is pulled as if the ESP was on, we have a slow 1-2 shift. Straight line loss = tragic. Man I've had the 1st to 2nd shift bounce so hard because of ESP/TCU parameters that a fookin Subaru Legacy turbo 2L boxer had the jump on me for a bit lol, felt like I'd missed the gear in a manual it was so dam slow, with the Wavetrac this completely disappeared. This was with my current mods less the wavetrac.
Also, with them radials, I THINK you'll have the same problem with my semi slicks I've been using. They're great but you have to do a few big **** off burnouts to get them warm so they can grip, if you cruising then wanna punch it you gonna spin. I'm going back to high performance summer tyres now.
Open diff = wheel spin, power keeps going to it, brakes applied to that wheel by ESP (even when off) which tries to balance it so we're off and gripping again (maybe), some parameter puts something out of wack (bump in road, camber in road to allow rain to run off or tyre is slightly colder than the other..IDK), wheel spin again, brakes again, rinse and repeat this until car gets good traction or you get to top of 1st gear at which point power cuts because wheels are spinning at different speeds, you almost headbut the steering wheel from such aggressive cut in power, gear changes, power comes back, off we go.
So we have excessive wheel-spin due to power being routed to wheel with least grip by open diff, we have the brakes applied, oh, perhaps some timing is pulled as if the ESP was on, we have a slow 1-2 shift. Straight line loss = tragic. Man I've had the 1st to 2nd shift bounce so hard because of ESP/TCU parameters that a fookin Subaru Legacy turbo 2L boxer had the jump on me for a bit lol, felt like I'd missed the gear in a manual it was so dam slow, with the Wavetrac this completely disappeared. This was with my current mods less the wavetrac.
Also, with them radials, I THINK you'll have the same problem with my semi slicks I've been using. They're great but you have to do a few big **** off burnouts to get them warm so they can grip, if you cruising then wanna punch it you gonna spin. I'm going back to high performance summer tyres now.
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From: OC, CA
2006 E55
Hilarious, Lol, “racist” lol 😆 somebody shoot me, or better yet, run me over with a highly modified E55 with Upgraded Super Cheap Stolen Chinese LTH...I can’t stop lmao!!!!!
merry Christmas G!
Last edited by MSG 55G; Dec 25, 2018 at 07:07 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 699
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From: OC, CA
2006 E55
Yeah this doesn't compute mate for me mate, straight line speed -must- be increased by LSD, I don't have quantitative data but here is my qualitative approach..
Open diff = wheel spin, power keeps going to it, brakes applied to that wheel by ESP (even when off) which tries to balance it so we're off and gripping again (maybe), some parameter puts something out of wack (bump in road, camber in road to allow rain to run off or tyre is slightly colder than the other..IDK), wheel spin again, brakes again, rinse and repeat this until car gets good traction or you get to top of 1st gear at which point power cuts because wheels are spinning at different speeds, you almost headbut the steering wheel from such aggressive cut in power, gear changes, power comes back, off we go.
So we have excessive wheel-spin due to power being routed to wheel with least grip by open diff, we have the brakes applied, oh, perhaps some timing is pulled as if the ESP was on, we have a slow 1-2 shift. Straight line loss = tragic. Man I've had the 1st to 2nd shift bounce so hard because of ESP/TCU parameters that a fookin Subaru Legacy turbo 2L boxer had the jump on me for a bit lol, felt like I'd missed the gear in a manual it was so dam slow, with the Wavetrac this completely disappeared. This was with my current mods less the wavetrac.
Also, with them radials, I THINK you'll have the same problem with my semi slicks I've been using. They're great but you have to do a few big **** off burnouts to get them warm so they can grip, if you cruising then wanna punch it you gonna spin. I'm going back to high performance summer tyres now.
Open diff = wheel spin, power keeps going to it, brakes applied to that wheel by ESP (even when off) which tries to balance it so we're off and gripping again (maybe), some parameter puts something out of wack (bump in road, camber in road to allow rain to run off or tyre is slightly colder than the other..IDK), wheel spin again, brakes again, rinse and repeat this until car gets good traction or you get to top of 1st gear at which point power cuts because wheels are spinning at different speeds, you almost headbut the steering wheel from such aggressive cut in power, gear changes, power comes back, off we go.
So we have excessive wheel-spin due to power being routed to wheel with least grip by open diff, we have the brakes applied, oh, perhaps some timing is pulled as if the ESP was on, we have a slow 1-2 shift. Straight line loss = tragic. Man I've had the 1st to 2nd shift bounce so hard because of ESP/TCU parameters that a fookin Subaru Legacy turbo 2L boxer had the jump on me for a bit lol, felt like I'd missed the gear in a manual it was so dam slow, with the Wavetrac this completely disappeared. This was with my current mods less the wavetrac.
Also, with them radials, I THINK you'll have the same problem with my semi slicks I've been using. They're great but you have to do a few big **** off burnouts to get them warm so they can grip, if you cruising then wanna punch it you gonna spin. I'm going back to high performance summer tyres now.
But I*hear ya! From your technical explanation, it makes perfect sense; however, the install got me concerned, either the difficulty level of DIY or the high labor cost. Not sure if I want to deal with it at the moment. I’m enjoying the hell out my beast as is right now. Will check some Indy shop on labor install$$$$ to see if it’s worth my while. But I’m sure in due time, I will be craving...not writing it off just yet.*
Got another retirement project on the back burner: 200 gallon acrylic fish tank that I’m setting up for coral reef tank (my other hobby). Also just got granted legal guardianship for my niece and two nephews (4,5,7 y/o) been caring for them ever since I’ve retired from the US Army (Chinese Army for G_Money)*two n a half years ago.*They been keeping*me BUSY! *
Thank you &*Merry christmas PieRat.*
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2018
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From: OC, CA
2006 E55
So I've done some research on LSD diff DIY and it looks VERY doable...got a few question for ya. Probably going to venture on this project coming spring. Just watched YouTube on changing diff by Scott Elliot, didn't looked that bad.
1. When installing new bearings, is it very difficult to slide them on and if so, do you need a press to install them?
2. Why do you need a NEW 003531373 Mercedes Benz axle nut qty1?
3. Other than a dial gauge to measure back lash, are there any other special tools needed?
4. "Back lash" and "Shim", can someone explain a bit on where the shim are placed if back lash is not within spec?
5. Which is better LSD Quaifi or Wavetrac? I heard Wavetrac is not a direct fit and Quaifi is.
6. Is the rear AIR BAG gonna be a issue when extracting diff?
Additional Parts needed below.
2309970346 Mercedes Benz Seal Ring - Interior Flange qty2
2203570790 Mercedes Benz Protective Ring qty2
003531373 Mercedes Benz axle nut qty1
2303500349 Mercedes Benz rear left carrier bearing qty1
2303500249 Mercedes Benz rear right carrier bearing qty1
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 699
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From: OC, CA
2006 E55
LSD Finally
Pulled the trigger and got it installed today. Wavetrac LSD, Indy shop popped it in for a reasonable price. Haven’t had chance to fully test out but just want to update my post and close it out.
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From: Christchurch, New Zealand
CLS55
Im sure you'll love it mate, I don't understand how people are upping the power on these cars and not feeling the huge negative affect of the open diff! I find the rear so much more predictable and planted in general nowadays, almost feels like your down in power because it doesn't behave so rabid! Let us know how you feel after some testings!
