easeLDK

Hi all,

So I've searched the forums a little bit and haven't come across a clear and direct answer to my questions. Please forgive me if I missed a post.
Soooo I have my 2008 E63, right? I was driving down the freeway when my driver's side rear tire partially shredded and a strip ended up severing the brake hose. Brake fluid got everywhere and my rotor caught fire momentarily (sucks). Anyway, I replaced the rotors, pads, hoses, and brake shoes on both sides, but now I'm trying to figure out whether or not I can perform a brake fluid flush without any pressurized tools or the STAR system I keep seeing everywhere.

On top of that, I was checking the bleed screw to see if fluid was making it to the caliper, and no fluid is coming out. I checked the hose and the fluid is there. I checked the screw to make sure it wasn't clogged and it's not. Can I please get some clarification on what could be interrupting the flow of brake fluid to the caliper? Also, the pressurized tools and STAR system question too..

Thanks in advance for any help. I've read some stuff about a proportioning valve, but most of what I've read says it's usually for cars with disc brakes in front and drums in back soo I dunno. I feel like I'm ranting aimlessly so I'll summarize quickly-

• Can I complete a brake fluid change without pressurized tools?
• Can I complete a brake fluid change without STAR?
• What could be interrupting flow of brake fluid to caliper?

Pictures upon request!

Yuille36

Yes, you can changed/flush your brake fluid without using Star. To clarify Star Diagnostic is used on the 03-06 E55, utilizes brake by wire (SBC) Sensotronic Brake Control, which pressurizes the system to 3000 psi.
But our cars have a regular hydraulic brake system, just have someone pump the brakes while you loosen the bleeder valve on each caliper. Remember that the fronts have two bleeder valves, one in the side pistons and one for the outside piston. The rear calipers just have one belled valve. I can't answer as to what might be interrupting your flow of fluid to the caliper. I'm having my brake flushed in the next few months, as I do this every two years.

easeLDK

That is great news. I really appreciate the response man, thank you. I'll keep researching the fluid issue, but if anyone else has any advice, I'm open to suggestions and ideas. I can't wait to get this thing running again

dustinN

Any DOT4 will do? It's hard to find MB genuine brake fluid at local stores.

easeLDK

Yeah, my only issue now is the rear brakes don't get pressure. My front brakes are the only ones operating.

N_Rob

Make the most of this issue: go rip some mean standing burnouts

Yuille36

This could be simply air in the rear calipers, brake lines or stuck caliper pistons. The rear pistons can be removed and maintenance performed on them, but you will require new piston o-rings.

Yuille36

Brake Fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture from the environment. If your brake fluid isn't flushed every two years, you could have collected moisture in your rear brake lines, or rear calipers.
And if so, then the moisture will start to rust the surface of your calipers pistons, thereby not allowing them to move. That could explain why your front calipers is going all the work, and not the rears.

hachiroku

if for any reason you had air in the area of your brake calipers...if its been a VERY long time since the fluid was replaced, you very well could have corrosion preventing/limiting movement to your rear caliper pistons. I'd proceed with a full bleed before making that determination.

Yuille36

Good call

easeLDK

Definitely considered that!
I've considered rebuilding the calipers but I don't know where I'd find replacement pistons and rings. I also want to have them sandblasted and repainted because one took major cosmetic damage.
I thought it might be air as I've heard that some air can stay in the line for a while but I've done a full bleed and nada. The caliper is getting fluid, but there is no pressure. I've heard of a combination valve or proportioning valve that will stop pressure to the front or back, but I can't seem to find any info on it here.

Yuille36

As far as the pistons and rings go, I would definitely contact Brembo below, as they are the OEM supplier of our rotors and calipers.
I personally don't think that Mercedes would have these parts, but they would sell you an entire caliper.

Brembo North America Inc., Homer, MI (517) 568-4398 Open ⋅ Closes 4PM
Brembo North America Plymouth, MI (734) 468-2100 Open ⋅ Closes 5PM
Brembo North America Mooresville, NC (704) 799-0530

hachiroku

if you're able to bleed the rear calipers, then you are getting fluid to your rear calipers.

if you pull your brake pad pins you'll be able to compress your pistons like a normal brake pad change. if you are unable to then you possibly have a seized caliper piston. i'd doubt that all 4 rear pistons are seized. the calipers on our cars are very high quality brembo brakes.

if you've done all of this and are still lost, i'd recommend you bring your car to a certified mercedes repair shop as quite honestly these steps will identify your issue if there is one.

lvevo

You can get the caliper seals and pistons from Racing Brake. In the Evo world a lot of people use the racing brake components without any problems. If I recall correctly Brembo isn't selling the rebuild kit anymore or it was hard to locate? I don't remember which one it was. See link below:


https://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7067.htm


Also Centric sells fully rebuilt and painted calipers. I looked on rockauto and they only have the rears. A friend of mine bought a full set of Centric rebuilt calipers for his Evo and they are fine 2 years later. Paint still looks good too. I don't recall what parts where used for the rebuild from Centric but that make seals and pistons for other makes so I would guess Centric parts.


https://www.apcautotech.com/automoti...raking-systems

dustinN

How much fluid does the 07 e63 need? I thought it needs only 1 litter but someone said it requires 2.5 litters?

Yuille36

The stock 07 E63 brake system holds 0.63 liter, so a 1 liter can of brake fluid should be sufficient. I bought 2 cans and didn’t need the second can, but will save it for the next time since it is unopened.

E63007

I am now driving my E63 after many months (15!) of doing a rear Main —-> entire rear suspension rebuild, and as far as I can tell, my rear brakes do work, however, when I was going through the bleeding process, I started by unsuccessfully trying to pressure bleed the system only making a mess during the process! Then I got someone to “Pump” the brakes by slowly pushing down as I opened up the bleed screw and close it before the end of the pedal push. This worked great on the fronts, which I moved to only after trying to do same unsuccessfully on the rears! The fronts were seemingly unobstructed with a smooth steady stream of fluid as I was bleeding. Mind you, my assistant was NOT Pumping the pedal as I have always been taught to do otherwise or risk introducing air into the system as the pedal returns. I was also frequently checking the reservoir and filling it to keep air from being introduced to the system. Perhaps this method only applies to Boosters of lesser quality perhaps but it has worked well in the past, that is, until I tried to do same with my E63. After unsuccessfully attempting to bleed the rear, as I said, I went to the fronts and that method worked flawlessly. But being that I didn’t want my assistant (neighbor) to leave without trying all I could, I had him try pumping the pedal while I opened up the rear caliper and while he was pumping I could hear a subtle cacophony of sounds which could only mean “Air”. While he was doing this, instead of a smooth stream of fluid, it was more of a dribble if anything! My concern is this Air must be in the ABS system and can only be pumped out with a miny vac, which I don’t have. Anyone else encounter this issue?

kevm14

I'll post some general information brake things as I've done my share of brake work over the past 20 years.

- Mity vac works well generally. In fact the last brake line job I did (non-MB) I did the Mity-vac and then followed up with the conventional brake pedal bleed. No air. That's a data point. Might be nice to have a vaccum system that takes air pressure so I don't have to sit there and squeeze the lever (good for hand strength I guess). I also have a Motive power bleeder but need more adapters to fit my reservoirs (bought it for a clutch flush).
- After a brake line rupture, in general, the proportioning valve, assuming it's an old style mechanical system, has a shuttle that moves to either block one circuit or the other (not always front/rear) in the event of a pressure loss. The motion of this switch also closes a circuit which turns the BRAKE light on your dash on. Certain cars require some brake pressure to reset the shuttle or it will stay in a position that covers the circuit that lost pressure. Often this is accomplished during the normal course of brake pedal bleeding but may require a firm stand on the pedal to build up enough pressure.

No clue if any of this applies to the E63 but wanted to pass along anyway.

ModE211

In my experience I have never been able to hand bleed the big Brembo brakes on w211 amgs if you look your front calliper has two bleed screws, using star diagnostics it triggers your abs pump to do certain procedures to push all air out.

Yuille36

You have to go old school. But you can hand bleed your brakes, if you don’t have a power bleeder. But it requires two people, one pumping the brakes and one bleeding them.

E63007

The WIS for my W211 E63 calls for the Reservoir to be pressured to 2 Bar with fluid pressurized through the cap. I have a home-made one but my DIY Cap made a mess! So this time I just tended to the reservoir making sure it was not getting too low on Fluid. The WIS Specifies that the Pumping of the brake does NOT require the Valve at the Caliper to be Closed at the end of each depression, only that upon release, to do so slowly so as not to introduce air to the system. It worked well for all corners but my Passenger Rear. In fact, when I removed the Hose, I rolled up a piece of Blue shop towel to form a point and stuck it into the recess of the Caliper and there was no residue of oil. Mind you I had removed the Hose from the Fluid Line 1st, obviously, and wrapped some towel around its end secured with Ductape so as to limit any spillage, so I didn’t pay attention to what may have come out the other end in the pan when I unscrewed it from the Caliper. I was surprised when it was dry so the rolled up towel proved the caliper was dry? Upon Bleeding though, the waste fluid bottle filled up as fluid was pumped with the brake pedal? Nevertheless, that cacophony of sound was heard up near the ABS and only for this one side of the rear? Weird?

PNW_E63_AMG

Did you get this sorted?