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Final cost: ~$1966 for parts. All labor was my own over three weekends (waiting on parts or tools). I could have done it cheaper but I'm working to replace parts *before* they fail. More cost up front, more piece of mind long term. The mirror motor was extra because the positioning mechanism was failing. Found a lower ball joint with a torn boot. With over 50K miles on the ball joints, I'll most likely just replace all four lower ball joints at one time rather than doing them one or two at a time.
The only task I did not accomplish was changing the oil in the front of the supercharger. When I went to do so, I could not find the nifty syringe with flexible tubing I had bought for this. Curses! Foiled again!
(EDIT 8 Sep 2018. Add to the list of things to remove/replace is the supercharger clutch pulley bearing. Mine failed 700 miles after I performed this service. I have the bearing on the shelf; I should have replaced it while I had everything apart. Now I have to tear into it again. Nachi 45BG07S5A1G-2DL.) Good DIY here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...g-install.html
I removed the fan shroud as I needed room to remove a stripped bolt on the tensioner pulley. Successful! Remove the metal piece over the radiator to ease this process. There are four "push pins" that are a PITA but must be removed to uninstall the metal piece.
Fuel pumps and filter replaced.
Before:
After:
Water pump was beginning to go. You can where the front seal was leaking coolant that was then running down the pump towards the lower radiator hose.
If you have the water pump out, now is the time to pull the alternator and replace the regulator and brushes. I was going to replace the bearings but did not have the proper tool to remove the front bearing.
I had to use an impact hammer to remove the two screws for the regulator; otherwise they would have stripped.
It was a rebuilt alternator on the car replaced during a dealer campaign so the alternator has between 106K and 150K miles on it. Minimum brush length is 5mm; my brushes measured at 8mm.
Another setback when I reassembled everything, pulled vacuum to vacuum fill the cooling system, and an o-ring on the heater valve failed (better now than on the road later). Remove the windshield wiper mechanism for easier access. A drum brake spring puller is perfect for pulling the metal catches open to remove the hoses. When installing the valve, I found it easier to pull open the catches on the new valve, use a small amount of KY jelly on the metal fittings on the firewall (and the plastic fitting on the hose leading from the engine) to prevent damage to the new o-rings, then press the valve on, press the catches, and pull on the valve to ensure it is in place.
List of tasks performed and associated parts cost. SBC shows estimated remaining life of 24%. Pretensioning reservoir is at minimum value of 72 Bar (72 to 102 Bar optimal) so I'm keeping an eye on it for future replacement.
150,171 miles
-Replaced oil and filter. 9 quarts 0w-40 Mobil1 plus Mann filter. $58
-Drained and refilled differential oil. Mobil1 75w-90. $30
-Replaced fuel pumps and filter sending unit.
----211-470-00-00 Fuel Delivery Module (dual pumps) $479
----211-470-64-94 Tank Inner Module (actually filter and regulator) $418
----211-471-05-79 Fuel Sender Seal x 2 $28
-Drained and refilled coolant. Xerex G-05 plus distilled water. $32
-Replaced water pump. Mercedes OEM 113-200-01-01. $353
-Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses.
----A-211-501-37-82. $74
----A-211-501-44-82. $41
-Broke and replaced bleed line from reservoir to upper radiator hose.
----A 211 501 09 25. $30
-Replaced voltage regulator and brushes in alternator.
----Bosch 003-154-65-06/14. $43
-Replaced supercharger drive belt and plastic supercharger idler pulley. Replaced bearing in metal supercharger idler pulley.
----Belt 8K1289. $22
----Bearing 6203-2RS. $4
----Dayco 89130 pulley. $22
-Serpentine drive belt kit; belt, tensioner, idler pulley. Removed and replaced stripped torx-head bolt on serpentine tensioner.
----6K2449 plus tensioner plus idler pulley. $145
----003-990-16-12 drive belt tensioner bolt. $5
-Replaced gas cap gasket to fix small evap system leak.
----A 168-471-06-79. $6
-Replaced heater valve. Bad o-ring causing coolant leak. A 211-832-05-84. $41
-Replaced driver’s side air intake tube. A 113-094-22-82. $22
-Added 30ml power steering fluid.
-Bled intercooler system.
-Found torn thrust arm ball joint boot on passenger side front. Schedule both lower ball joints for replacement.
-Replaced passenger side mirror motor (bad positioning sensor).
----A 203-820-22-42. $113
-Brake system actual values:
----Bremsenzaehler – 317,439
----Pump cycles – 11,849,100
----Estimated remaining pump life in % - 24.5% (DJ_GetPmpLD)
----Pretensioning pressure in reservoir – 72 Bar (72-102 optimal)
-Battery tests w/ Solar BA-50 tester:
----Main rated 900 CCA, tested 982 CCA
----Auxiliary rated 200 CCA, tested 215 CCA
-Fuel pump current draw:
----Old: pump 1 – 12.0 amps; pump 2 – 14.0
----New: pump 1 – 13.0 amps; pump 2 – 13.2 amps
-Transmission values: too many to post here but I have screen shots in my files.
Probably way more information than anyone wanted but here it is anyway.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 06-03-2022 at 03:06 PM.
Reason: correct part number
By the way, if you cannot obtain KY jelly for the o-rings, Amazon carries this stuff that works just as well. Be sure to read the reviews to ensure it is what you need.
You don't need the syringe if you pull the SC to regrease the rear bearings. Keep a close eye on that 6203 RS. It's getting really hard to find good bearings with all the cheap ones on the market, and I think the S stands for stainless which has a much lower load rating. A good german or japanese bearing should cost 10-15 I would think.
Hey, if you do happen to have a good source for 6203 bearings, let me in on it please. I just built a big granite saw with 32 of them in it. I've bought 5 different kinds and I'm not impressed with the quality of any of them.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; 08-26-2018 at 07:21 PM.
By the way, if you cannot obtain KY jelly for the o-rings, Amazon carries this stuff that works just as well. Be sure to read the reviews to ensure it is what you need.
You don't need the syringe if you pull the SC to regrease the rear bearings. Keep a close eye on that 6203 RS. It's getting really hard to find good bearings with all the cheap ones on the market, and I think the S stands for stainless which has a much lower load rating. A good german or japanese bearing should cost 10-15 I would think.
Hey, if you do happen to have a good source for 6203 bearings, let me in on it please. I just built a big granite saw with 32 of them in it. I've bought 5 different kinds and I'm not impressed with the quality of any of them.
Now you have me re-evaluating my choice. The bearing I removed was an NSK 6203-ZZC3 rated at 17K rpm, 1079 lb-ft static load and 2179 lb-ft dynamic load. This is the one with the metal shields and not the rubber seals and I have since learned it is recommended for intermittent extreme conditions and not continuous extreme conditions. I paid $15 for it back in 2015. Upon removal, it looks fine after 60K miles of use.
The Xike 6203-2RS I'm going to pull. I can find no technical data on rotational ratings, static load, or dynamic load. $16 for a four-pack. Digging into the reviews there were several comments about lack of customer satisfaction with the grease used in them.
I just ordered an NSK 6203-08VV (EDIT: order the 6203-VV, *not* the -08 as it has a much smaller bore. Back ordered so I ordered another NSK 6203-ZZC3)) with the same ratings as the ZZC3 above but with dual rubber seals and rated for continuous extreme conditions. Cost is $9 plus tax.
FWIW, I ordered all of the above on Amazon.
Fortunately, swapping the bearing is not hard. Takes longer to chill the bearing in the freezer and heat the pulley in the oven that it does for me to remove and install the idler pulleys.
Now you have me re-evaluating my choice. The bearing I removed was an NSK 6203-ZZC3 rated at 17K rpm, 1079 lb-ft static load and 2179 lb-ft dynamic load. This is the one with the metal shields and not the rubber seals and I have since learned it is recommended for intermittent extreme conditions and not continuous extreme conditions. I paid $15 for it back in 2015. Upon removal, it looks fine after 60K miles of use.
The Xike 6203-2RS I'm going to pull. I can find no technical data on rotational ratings, static load, or dynamic load. $16 for a four-pack. Digging into the reviews there were several comments about lack of customer satisfaction with the grease used in them.
I just ordered an NSK 6203-08VV with the same ratings as the ZZC3 above but with dual rubber seals and rated for continuous extreme conditions. Cost is $9 plus tax.
FWIW, I ordered all of the above on Amazon.
Fortunately, swapping the bearing is not hard. Takes longer to chill the bearing in the freezer and heat the pulley in the oven that it does for me to remove and install the idler pulleys.
Thanks for the "sanity check".
I just looked up that # on amazon and it showed me a bearing with metric and inch measurements. 1/2 inch bore for $16. More confused than ever...oh well.
Just a quick question, how do I go about measuring V / A on my fuel pump. Can use a standard voltmeter or need to get something? thank you
You need a device with a shunt that allows you to measure both voltage and current. Since the E55 has two fuel pumps, you'll need two the measuring devices mounted in a project box. Use the adapter cable P/N 211-540-07-00 as the harness for the measuring device. If your car already has that cable installed (required for the fuel pumps ending in 00-00) one fuel pump will run backward when measuring *unless* you either repin the end (of the adapter cable you are using for the measuring device) that would connect to the fuel pump so that the striped wires on are pins 1 and 3 OR remove the adapter cable in the car and insert the measuring device in line with the fuel pumps. (Edit: IIRC, I ordered the DROK meter with the 20-amp shunt.)
I just looked up that # on amazon and it showed me a bearing with metric and inch measurements. 1/2 inch bore for $16. More confused than ever...oh well.
Go here and enter the bearing series (i.e. 60, 62, 63, etc) and it will provide the measurements for that series. If you enter "6203" it will provide the specs for only that item. Since this is JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) all measurements will be metric. https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnli...og/en/bearing/
Go here and enter the bearing series (i.e. 60, 62, 63, etc) and it will provide the measurements for that series. If you enter "6203" it will provide the specs for only that item. Since this is JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) all measurements will be metric. https://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/NSKOnli...og/en/bearing/
I was going to say the price sounds way too low. But, then I realized you are doing all the work yourself!
I had the same service and it was well, a little more at an Indy. :-)
Four hours labor (labor only, not parts!) to replace the water pump at the local Mercedes dealer comes to $660 USD plus tax. Parts and coolant are extra. I think I can remove belts and unbolt a water pump and install a new one for that price. Even if it takes me all day and I put in eight hours of labor, I come out ahead. Yeah, they have overhead, I don't. Still, the only way I can comfortably afford this car is to perform the work myself. Otherwise, I'm going for another Mazda....
In the engine area, 150k seems to be the time by which the chains and guides (at least guides) need replacement.
My little ML320 has a very similar engine, (missing 2 cylinders of course) and it's tight and right at 330 thousand miles. I'm expecting similar life out of my CLS55 with regular oil changes. Hoping anyway. That little 6 cyl is a higher revving engine in daily use.
In the engine area, 150k seems to be the time by which the chains and guides (at least guides) need replacement.
This got me to searching a bit more; found one post by GatorMB where he stated that replacement of the timing chain is recommended at 200,000 kilometers but no supporting information provided. His photos of the timing guides showed them to be in bad shape but no mention was made of the miles on the motor. He rebuilt his CLK55 engine to a boosted version. It was an interesting thread to read as he rebuilt the motor but that is more than I want to do at this time.
Good info nonetheless and I wish I was aware of it sooner. At this time (primarily because I just don't have the heart to perform all of the above work over again) I do not plan on taking my engine down to replace the timing guides as it requires removing the front of the engine. To quote Sulaco from a different post, "Changing the guides requires removing the entire front of the engine: water pump, upper and lower timing covers, oil cooler, intake manifold, entire intake/ignition system, valve covers, and a few other odds and ends. My trusted shop is cutting me a deal at 1200 bucks but I can pretty much find a 5.4 engine for that much, so I'm torn." Post here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...ml#post6527524
I would be open to replacing the guides and timing chain at 200,000 to 250,000 miles; plus would be a good opportunity to replace any rubber components on the engine (such as the o-ring under the oil filter housing).
I much appreciate the comments; I've still got a lot to learn.
Lovely detail on what you've done! I've just recently purchased a E55 on a 2003 plate that has been sat for the last 7 years, and want to go completely through it. I'm currently in the process of parting with some money by looking for parts for the old beast. I'm currently looking on auto doc for parts, but am thinking about going down the genuine route for the water bump and thermostat, and getting my belts and tenoners off auto doc. unless you know of a site that does oem parts at all. just after advice and recommendations on my build really. ive started a youtube series of me doing it up if anyones interested. heres a link
Autodoc isnt that well known on here I think, so you should be somewhere in the EU I also use Autodoc from time to time. I also still need to do the waterpump, but I wonder if aftermarket fits. I also did a lot of maintenance after buying my CLS55 and I documented it well, so feel free to check my thread.
Regarding belts, buy the Gates RPM for the supercharger and OE Gates for the serpentine belt. Tensioners are perfectly fine aftermarket.
Lovely detail on what you've done! I've just recently purchased a E55 on a 2003 plate that has been sat for the last 7 years, and want to go completely through it. I'm currently in the process of parting with some money by looking for parts for the old beast. I'm currently looking on auto doc for parts, but am thinking about going down the genuine route for the water bump and thermostat, and getting my belts and tenoners off auto doc. unless you know of a site that does oem parts at all. just after advice and recommendations on my build really. ive started a youtube series of me doing it up if anyones interested. heres a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0z8yH4PiOc
Bringing up a dead horse but my cls55 is approaching 121K. Im replacing the crank pulley and seal as preventive maintenance. Was also thinking of replacing water pump, thermostat, voltage regulator, rad hoses and maybe the radiator…. I currently do not have any issues with these items, but I think you and I have the same mindset of preventative Maintenance is key. . I see that you’re 05 has 225,000 miles on it. I would love to hear what all you’ve done to it since this post and at what mileage… debating on going with the changing of the fuel injectors, too, with the FCP Euro ones, brand new Bosch. I have a friend who basically has the same car as me, he's a car wizard and he said if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. I just know what it’s like to be on the side of the highway so I do believe preventive maintenance is key. I’d love to know what all you’ve done, and then, if there were some things that you wish you would’ve done while you were in there.
All four front control arms, rear air springs, fuel pumps and filter/regulator plus harness repair, o-ring between oil filter housing and block, recalibrated suspension, replaced headlights, replaced cap on coolant reservoir, flushed brake system, transmission fluid exchange and filter replacement, replaced supercharger idler double pulley ( metal pulley bore worn to the point a replacement bearing was too loose).
If I think of anything else, I'll add it to the thread.
All four front control arms, rear air springs, fuel pumps and filter/regulator plus harness repair, o-ring between oil filter housing and block, recalibrated suspension, replaced headlights, replaced cap on coolant reservoir, flushed brake system, transmission fluid exchange and filter replacement, replaced supercharger idler double pulley ( metal pulley bore worn to the point a replacement bearing was too loose).
If I think of anything else, I'll add it to the thread.
I appreciate that. Have you touch the fuel injectors? I’m thinking about doing that, but I’ve also heard some if he reviews on the posh ones, well, the new ones they sell anyway bein a different spray pattern, then what came on our cars
08-26-2018, 02:44 PM
I also use Autodoc from time to time. I also still need to do the waterpump, but I wonder if aftermarket fits. I also did a lot of maintenance after buying my CLS55 and I documented it well, so feel free to check my thread.
