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I know there are 2-3 threads on this subject, but wanted to post a new one with pics.
M156 W211 E63 takes 8.8L or 9.3 Qts of your choice of oil, with a new filter and draining oil from the main oil pan, the front center oil cooler and the passenger side oil cooler.
I use Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 which is MB 229.5 and 226.5 approved. Use whatever you like using. Filter I have been using is Hengst E149H D114.
I change the oil at operating temp or a little cooled off. I use drive on ramps to get good clearance to the underside and not have to worry about jack stands and floor jacks getting in the way.
You have to remove all three plastic engine encapsulation panels under the front of the car - belly pans. There are, I believe, 14 of these 8mm screws that fasten these 3 panels. Four of them double up overlapping panels. The very front panel nearest the bumper cover has 4 in front of the tires (2 each side) - don't forget those (see pic).
After the plastic belly pans are removed, drain the main engine oil. Oil pan drain bolt is 13mm and has a copper washer. You should replace the copper washer each oil change. I always have a spare oil drain bolt 002 997 34 30 just in case the head gets a little rounded.
While the main pan is draining (about 8.5 - 9.0 qts), I remove the front silver engine cover with the MB star and replace the filter. Need a 32mm socket to remove the oil filter cap. The filter may be attached to the cap or may stay in the filter housing. Be careful not to spill/drip oil everywhere - pull out the filter and tilt it in the housing to drain. There is a white O-ring gasket on the oil filter cap that needs to be replaced with the one in the oil filter box. Insert the new filter (mind the up vs down from the filter you removed!) and replace the cap to only 25nm = 18 lbs/ft. Not very tight!
The oil should be drained from the main pan. Using a new copper washer 007603-012102 (can buy when you get your filters - buy 10 of these, they are cheap), replace the drain bolt. Surprised the Hengst filters don't come with a new oil drain copper washer.
You can now move to the front center oil cooler drain bolt which is just behind the lower lip of the bumper cover to the P-side of center. See pic. This is also 13mm and I believe is an aluminum bolt. I know the washer is aluminum. Washer P/N is 007603-012104. Buy a few of these. About 1/2 qt of oil will drain from the front center oil cooler. Replace the bolt - no more than 15 lbs/ft.
The P-side oil cooler is right behind the P-side fog light just behind the bumper cover. If you notice, the grill next to the P-side foglight is an open mesh while the same grill next to the D-side foglight is solid plastic mesh. P-side needs airflow for the cooler. To drain this cooler, there is no drain bolt like the main pan and front center cooler. There is a single 10mm bolt that holds the oil feed line into the cooler. Remove the bolt and wiggle out the oil line from the cooler. There will be a green rubber o-ring gasket P/N 012 997 56 48 on this oil line. Buy a few of these o-rings. They last better than the drain bolt washers - I replace the o-ring every other oil change. You will get another 1/2 qt of oil from this cooler.
Make sure all drain bolts and fittings are back in place and fill the engine with 9.5 qts of oil. I always start the engine before replacing the belly pans to make sure there are no leaks. Replace the belly pans and have a beer.
Typically about 1/2 quart out of both the front and side oil coolers. That is why it's good to drain both.
You will never get 100% of the old oil out, but you can get about 98% +/- out.
Thanks for the great article. I found the parts numbers especially helpful. It is the second time my mechanic tells met that there was oil trickling from the drain bolt -- not too much, but very slowly. I do oil changes myself and use new washers each time. I will buy a new bolts and torque appropriately and hope that it will be the cure. Anyone else have had this issue?
04-19-2019, 06:50 PM
